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Pezhead

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Everything posted by Pezhead

  1. My 1995 GTR V-Spec came with HKS SuperDragger exhaust. I'm surprised that it is relatively quiet - which is good given the amount of attention Skylines get anyways. The rear muffler and exhaust pipe are huge which I didn't like at first but now I'm used to it. It's a 3.5" system. I don't know what the front pipes are but they are pretty big too. The only thing that is bad is that over bumps sometimes the pipe bumps into the rear sway bar that "clanks". Other than that I love it. Very deep rumble too.
  2. Hey fellas, I just bled the Attessa in my R33 GTR. It's pretty odd, I have to have the car idle to have it run the pump. The pump would only come on every 2-3 minutes or so even with the bleed valve open the whole time. Also there isn't any "surge" when the pump comes on. This is the odd bit when I open the bleed valve at the end of the transmission it just trickles out - very little, maybe 1-2 mm stream from the hose. It was constant and didn't show signs of air, but it was sure slow. It took like 4-5 minutes to put 20mm in a mayonnaise jar. Then I did the rear one on top of the rear diff - and it only dripped out. I couldn't ever get a full stream. I let it run for like 10-15 minutes and only got about a 1/3 of my jar full. Is my pump shot? Maybe that is why I have no front power transfer.
  3. Sorry I'll put this in another post. I didn't read the bit about not asking questions in this topic till just now.
  4. I have one of these for on board video/bumper cam. It is ok but doesn't pick up the sound very well. But it is good value for the price (about $110 USD or about $180 Aud bought locally from ebay). video samples: http://www.youtube.com/results?search_quer...mp;search_type= I'd be interested to compare with the video from your unit.
  5. I think this is all too typical of large global corporations. Nissan isn't loosing money, Nissan Australia is loosing the future sale of a new car. Nissan global still get's a car sale it is just in a differient market. So Mr. Colin Buckley - sour grapes. oh, and here is a column from Colin Buckley on fishing in Pittwater! (I'm sure a differient Colin Buckley) http://www.fishnet.com.au/default.aspx?id=...amp;memberId=16
  6. Saw Black R33 GTR turning on to Pennent Hills Road from Pac Hwy in Waitara at about 3 pm today. Plates were GTRO2C I think.
  7. Update folks. I pulled the inspection plate today to see what condition the diff was in. I was first surprised that very little oil came out - maybe only 100-150 ml! Then I looked at the inspection plate there wasn't any gasket - wasn't on the diff housing either. Somebody took the thing apart and didn't put a gasket back in! There was a little silicone stuff but it was all out the sides so was pretty much just bare metal trying to hold the oil in the case. So then I expected the worse as I inspected the gears. To my surprise there are no scoring marks and no signs of heat. No broken teeth. Wow - did I get lucky? Went out and bought some gasket material, cut a new gasket and filled 'er up with diff oil. To my surprise it passed the free wheel test up on jacks - all the way to 80k's. No vibration or noise. Here are a couple of pictures inside the diff - do you think it looks OK? I'll probably have it checked out by the shop when I free up some funds. Just seems weird to have such a severe problem add oil and all ok.
  8. Hey mate, I just checked my R33 GTR Vspec. The number is the same as you've posted here - A15 000 J03.
  9. Make sure the atessa system is bled and you have fluid in the reservoir in the boot. Do a search in the forums here on info on how to bleed the system. Jack the car up on stands so that all the wheels are off the ground and put it in 1st and let it idle. Should spin all 4. If you don't think it is applying all 50% then pull the front drive shaft and do the same. When the rears spin but the fronts don't the Atessa should try to do 50% reading on the gauge. I just did that with mine tonight to diagnose my diff problem. I'm having Atessa problems myself, but I hope for your sake your problem isn't as bad as mine. Mine appears to be the front diff is shot. Hope that helps.
  10. Update #1 folks. I pulled the front drive shaft and spun up the wheels. The rears go fine and the atessa says 50% torque at the front. So doesn't look to be a transfer case problem. I don't have the proper 3/4" drive to drain the oil out of the front diff but I'm now pretty convinced that it is the problem. When I grab the drive yoke and turn it does clunk around a bit, maybe 5 degrees or so but makes an audible clunk clunk sound. I guess it is time to have the front diff rebuilt. Can that be done in the car or is it a motor out operation?
  11. I'm going to have to get underneath it to have a closer look. It is also funny that when I drove it home it is ok. Even at the track earlier in the day when I stood on it the rears spun loose while the fronts didn't, but it didn't stall then. Of course I was really into it so maybe it was just making enough power to overcome the stall. Off the line there isn't any sign of trouble either. I would expect hesitation or some noise or something, but it drives ok with no real hint that anything is wrong. This weekend I'll pull the drive shaft and check the front axles. At this point I'm thinking it is something to do with the diff since it only really acts up when the transfer case tries to apply power to the diff. Although I've wondered about the 4WD since I bought the car back in August. Sometimes when I pull out of my driveway the back tyres loose traction on the dirt but the fronts are on pavement. Shouldn't the fronts pull me out? They don't and I end up spitting up a big dust cloud until the rears push me out. Then on the road as I turn it us up hill tight turn. Again the torque gauge indicates that a lot of power (30-40%) is going to the front but the backs are spinning slightly as I make the turn - but can't feel the fronts grabbing. It's always been like that. Unfortuantely spoke to the CFO last night and she says I can't carve any money out of the budget to fix it for a couple months Can I just pull the front drive shaft and drive it 2wd for a while? Is that going to do any damage? Appreciate the input folks. [EDIT] A new theory here folks. Could this be something wrong with the pinion of the diff? Here is my thought process: If the pinion bearings are totally shot, it would just free spin when there is no power but wouldn't hold thrust pressure against the ring gear. When the Atessa engages it tries to spin the pinion but the pinion pitches and locks against the ring gear - mesh angle being totally wrong. Thus the front diff locks up and the clutches then are trying to drive but the torque is lost as the pinion mesh doesn't transfer it efficiently to the ring. This might also explain how it works ok when the wheels turn as the ring is then turning so the pinion is spun just a bit so it doesn't have the chance to lock up. This is the only theory I can come up with that fits the symptoms I'm experiencing. It would also explain why the power isn't getting to the front. (to those that have made it this far, thanks for reading - I know it is a lot)
  12. Nope the tyres are new but same size all around. I've read all the threads on people trying to stagger them or even uneven wear. The tyres have less than 1000 km's so know that isn't the problem. It is really strange that the car will drive ok but on freewheel it bogs down. I really makes me think I broke something at Powercruise as that is really the first time I did any power on starts where the wheels spun. But it didn't make any sounds there and didn't feel funny just a hard launch. The power did really hit a boost at like 4.5-5 grand, maybe that is where the 4wd finally kicked out causing the surge in power. I'm a bit stumped.
  13. I have searched a bit and can't find anyone with my exact symptoms. So I'm seeking comments from you experienced folks. I just had my R33 GTR out at the NSW SAU dyno day. Also had it at powercruise where it was so back end squirly wasn't even funny, couldn't get any traction at all. So as soon as it went on the 4WD dyno the car stalled as they tried to release the clutch. The shop said the clutch pack in the transfer case is shot. I drove it home and it does drive ok. The 4WD and ABS lights do not come on at all. It drives fine and even the torque gauge reads. Although I'm sure it isn't transferring any torque at all. I lifted all four wheels on stands and even free wheeling as I try to release the clutch the car stalls with the wheels off the ground, no resistance on them at all. So I know that when the Atessa does try to kick in something in the front drive train is "locked up" and thus bogging down the power. So is it just the transfer case or is there a problem in the diff or something else. To me it is really strange that the wheels won't spin even with zero resistance. If it were clutches wouldn't it just engage but not spin the wheels? Since it bogs the car down I'm concerned might be something else in the front drive train. For instance, if the front diff was blown then as it tried to engage the front diff and couldn't spin it wouldn't it drag down the motor. Then only the transfer clutches would allow the back wheels to spin as they slip during ramp up engagement. Basically reverse of what the shop said e.g. clutches OK but front diff/something in the front drive train is stuffed. I'm not having a go at the knowledge of the guys at the shop. They really know their skylines and were really helpful given that I was only supposed to do a $50 dyno run. I'm really interested in the experience from you folks. So Godzilla is back in its den hibernating until I can save the funds for this next fix. Sometimes I think a drug addiction would be cheaper than owning a GTR.
  14. Thanks fellas, yeah the 4wd is rooted. Decided to end the weekend early after the SAU dyno meet. I don't want to do any serious damage to the drivetrain. The light has come on once in a while in the past but hasn't come on at all during this weekend - odd. I had it out for one cruise session and it is nice to know that I can hold most of the v8's in 2wd mode without much traction. Wait till I get the AWD working. Thanks to all and to Hill's for some good advice. I'll be contacting them later to have a deeper look into the drivetrain. Back to the shop.
  15. Darn count me out now guys. My 33's front clutch packs are shot. Gotta save up some funds and get them fixed.
  16. Hey folks great to see such a good turn out. For those that wondered why mine came back off the rollers before a run my front clutch pack is stuffed so I didn't want to do it any more damage. Geez out comes the VISA card again! At least this confirmed it before I did any more damage out at power cruise. I hate it when my toy is broken Glad to see so many tough machines today.
  17. Ok so I thought it would be a bit of hoonville, but I had no idea! All kinds of hoons around. Three cars had accidents today! Saw a newer ute that decided to crash test the barrier at turn 2! Geez. I hope they don't mistake my white skyline for a barrier. Would be target practice!
  18. Hey folks, I might try to come but have a full car weekend with powercruise this W/E. See if the wife will let me out two weekends in a row. Looks like you need an R33 GTR V-spec hehe!
  19. I just did the adjustment a couple weeks back. Makes loads of difference. Look for the rubber stopper thing in the rear brake hub. Pull that stopper out. Then look through the hole and rotate the axle until you can see the metal adjuster wheel. The screw is notched and sits horizontally so that turning the adjuster up/down screws the pads apart. From memory it was directly on the top. I think it was up to spread the pads but can't really remember. You have to use a flat blade screw driver into the notches to adjust. Be sure to check the tension by turning the axle by hand. It didn't take too much adjustment on mine to bring the handbrake level to 2/3 the height it was before. Hope that is helpful.
  20. I just got done fitting one of these to my GTR (See Fabrication thread). I found that the lines were too long but I cut them to length and fit them custom. It was a real pain as the steel braiding is hard to work and did scratch me to high hell. But the end result was well worth it. I bought my kit from UAS but it is just like the Performance Wise kit. Make sure to buy one with Earls fittings or ones that you can cut to length. Be prepared for a bear of a job when you cut the stuff as I had to use a cut off wheel to grind through the stainless for a clean enough cut for the fittings to go back on. When you are cutting it, it will throw tiny little red hot splinters at you so watch out. Then when you are trying to put the aluminum fitting back on the ends of the braid are so sharp they are like razors! At one point 3 of my finger tips were bleeding. What a job! My oil pressure unit is plumbed in after the cooler and I don't see much drop in oil pressure - my line sits between 1.6-2.1 bar warm on idle and easily hits 6.5 Bar when rev'n. However, I do agree with folks here that if you go too cheap you will end up paying for it. All it takes is oil fitting to break or a crack in the cooler unit and bye bye oil... bye bye motor.
  21. I was concerned 'bout the pressure on my R33 GTR. It never went above 4.5 and sometimes dips under 1 bar So I bought a cheap AutoGauge pressure gauge to keep an eye on it. It was the stock gauge in my case. Around 2 Bar both read about the same. But above 3-4 the AutoGauge keeps climing to 6-6.5 where the stock one stops at about 4.5. Also on days when it drops below one the autogauge still reads 2+. On those days the stock gauge never goes above 2.5 but the AutoGauge still reads ok all the way to 6.5. I have no idea why some days the stock gauge does that and other days its ok. Personally, I have too much invested in my car to have it malfunction due to oil issues. Oil problems are a definite way to stuff the motor. Well, at least I have peace of mind now. If ur interested I bought the AutoGauge smoke face 52mm for $27 + 6 shipping to Sydney from an online shop (PM if you want the details). I was doing an oil cooler and remote at the same time so I didn't have to really fuss with a special adapter for the oil pressure sender unit.
  22. Mainly I didn't want the hot air going into the engine compartment as directly above the Oil Cooler are my Pod filters. I plan to build a CAI next so would be pointless to just fill it with hot air from this area. It is really hard to see in the photos but I've got about 40mm of air gap out the back all the way across. I also opened the bottom up a lot for the air intake from the turn signal duct. That area is recessed and will draw in a lot of air and it is forced out the back. It pretty much only gets a work out at the track and I figure that at 100+ k's it will get plenty of flow. Thanks guys.
  23. So I put a new M-Spec alum radiator in the skyline and the old mounts were too high. The new radiator sits flush and doesn't need the rise in the mount. Ah, what a great excuse to make some polished alum ones! Oh and of course I had to polish the radiator. It just didn't look right without a polish. I'm not too fussy on polishing as it is a daily driver and will get road grime on it anyways. But overall effect is nice. Nice little job. Took a couple of hours of machine time on the desktop mill.
  24. Hey folks. I thought I'd post my work on my Oil Cooler installation. I decided a few months back that I'm not going to track my GTR until I have an oil cooler. I ended up getting a nice kit from UAS and up-sized the cooler to a 15 row. For anyone planning on doing this to their R33, the 15 row is the biggest that will fit in this area. I nearly took it back to downsize as it took me a while to figure out how it would fit. I ended up placing mine right under the air intake behind the bumper as that was the only free space I have in my line. The BOV on the other side got in the way and I don't really want to move those. They're nicely hidden from sight As in all projects it all took a lot of time. Measuring and planning made a lot of difference. But I'm really glad it did the planning as it has turned out really nicely. Making sure all the oil lines and box placement was going to work out was a little tricky. Making sure everything tucks up inside the mud guard without hardly any clearance was tricky. All up it took me 3 full weekends and a couple of weeknights. But I did get distracted along the way to do some custom fab and engine bay detailing. Here is the build of the airbox (note that I had to get the angle of the airgap to 15 degrees as that is how I did the trig when I layed out the design): I decided I wanted to reinforce the oil hose end so with some angle stock. Then I got a bit carried away with the mill work. I'm a backyard machinist so I have a desktop mill in the shop. Mounting into the car looks like this: I decided I didn't want the hot air to go directly into the engine bay intake so I built a full enclosure/top lid for the box. You can't see it too well in the pictures but the lid is angled so there is a large slot at the top that vents out the mud guard. I also just got too tired and didn't take pictures of the air ducting. I built a scoop that pulls all the air from the turn signal duct directly into the bottom end of the air box. That way it forces air through the cooler and out the mud guard. I also slit the mud guard but heated the plastic to an angle so that any water/mud flung into the hole will drain back to the outside of the guard rather than get flung inside. Them I put some mesh across the hole to keep out debris. Outside of the machine work, the box build is something that anyone can do. It just took some tin snips, pop rivets and some planning. Happy building folks!
  25. I sent my entry in yesterday. So watch for the White R33 GTR. I'm only doing the cruise and racing though. wanting to take it easy on the car.
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