wegs

I'll strip the injector lag times out tonight and see how it goes... that's one thing I forgot to repeat since swapping the wires. thanks Trent.

Have a copy of the EMU page which illustrates the swapping of cam/crank bewteen BNR32-BCNR33 and BNR34. Will look to post it up somewhere if there is interest.

With some feedback from http://www.emanageforums.com/ I found the source of my ignition timing problem (ie EMU reading constant 111.0deg in data logging). The problem is the cam and crank signal wires in the Install Manual and the plug and play loom are the wrong way around. Apparently there is an updated install manual which makes note of this but i'm yet to find it. Unfortunately for me it didn't fix my car idling/running rough but it's progress With this change I repeated troubleshooting including changing RPM Signal and reinstalling EMU software/firmware but no change. I have the injector adapator for 6 cylinders on it's way so will see if this helps. Wegs

Thanks mad082, i will give that a try. I assume if I open a new blank EMU session and upload it to the ECU it should reset it. I will see if there is a way I can force the 2.13 update again to the unit as well. Wegs

PM Sent

My RPM drop down box in parameter settings is set to "RPM Signal". The plug n play harness comes with the brown RPM wire connected to the correct ECU point.

I have done some more troubleshooting... tell me if you think any of this relates to my car running rough. The ignition timing in my logging goes straight to 111.0 when running the engine regardless of RPM. I expected this to show 20deg at idle, or if it's a different scale at least change at different revs. Without the EMU connected my timing gun shows 20deg BTDC at idle (950rpm). With the EMU connected the timing gun is off the crank pully scale... past 30deg BTDC. Any ideas? Wegs

Mohdparts.com have told me they don't think the GReddy e-manage Ultimate injector adapter #2 - #15901504 will work for RB26. Trent told me the same as he didn't use one on the driftcat RB26. So I will continue looking elsewhere for an answer to my above post. They also said the software & not the board version determines the knock sensor abilities of the EMU. I will try hooking this up and see if i can get a reading. Wegs

It appears I have one of the earlier EMU's, board letter is © and serial is GSCII03111. Is this going to be a show stopper for my RB26 install? I assume all this means is I can't use my EMU to detect knock. [edit, see below post] Using a plug and play GTR loom I connected this for the first time yesterday with neutral software setup and a stock engine. The car runs but there's a lot of fuel smoke on idle and driving at low speeds/power was very rough, felt like ignition was cutting in and out and it seemed to get worse if i opened the throttle more. Haven't made any modifications to maps & car runs perfectly on stock ECU. I haven't done much logging yet but the bit I did do showed 100% spikes of injector duty or cycle (can't recall which one, don't have it in front of me). Any ideas... i have set jumpers to factory defaults as below. Jumper: State 1-6: Open 7 & 8: 1-2 9: Open 10: 1-2 11 & 12: Open 13 & 14: Open for knock sensors, 1-2 for temp sensors 15: 1-2 16: Open 17: 1-2 18: Open 19 & 20: 1-2 Note: There is a jumper setting typo in the installation manual. The overview table of jumper settings on page 6 says for Jumper 17, open is VTM and 1-2 is Karman output..... but then on page 8 under the explanation of jumper 17 it says "JP17 Frequency Output / VTM Output. This jumper will configure pin 21 channel in the Connector B (18 pin connector). Set to OPEN for Karman airflow meter output signal. Set to 1-2 for Honda with VTM signal." The instructions that came with my plug and play loom support table on page 6 so i have gone with that one as correct. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks Wegs

Thanks so far for everyone who showed interest. Received deposit so for now these are no longer for sale.

DEPOSIT TAKEN I purchased these coilovers from Otomoto last year with modified spring rates to suit Oz roads. Instead of the normal track based rates I special ordered these with 5kg front and 4kg rear spring rates. These are like new, used for 5350km. Just inside of the 12 month warranty. One of the best value for money coilovers on the market. These shouldn't be compared to the cheaper asian coilovers (wont' mention names), HSD have been manufacturing coilovers for the OEM Japanese market for years and it shows in build quality and actual performance. Large monotube design, 16 steps of shock adjustment, full height adjustment etc.. No issues with roadworthiness, I passed a full roadworthy at regency with these. The ride is firm but not harsh on the street. I generally kept the shock setting low for around town and raised it slightly for hills driving. There is plenty of scope for pushing these at the track with high corner speeds. More details of the coilovers http://www.otomoto.com.au/HDSystems/index.htm Price is $800ono DEPOSIT TAKEN. Still have most of the packaging from new so no problems with shipping. PM, email or call on 0413 250 250 for further details. Thanks Wegs mailto:vehiclefx@gmail.com

(edit - removed)

Hi Duncan, If possible can you please add me to the list to receive one of the last batch? Can transfer the money in advance, just let me know what the account details are. Thanks in advance Wegs [added on 22/11/07: Because i don't login here everyday, if you need to contact me when these are close for payment please email me at vehiclefx@gmail.com so i can respond in a timely manner. Thanks.]

I am currently in the process of testing and negotiating LED sales with a supplier. Should it prove successful and I approach SAU as a trader how can i be sure of fair advertising and exposure when the post in question is in an area of higher traffic flow?

Thanks for your attention on this. I wasn't 100% sure on report button use but will do this in future

I fail to see how this post is allowed to remain in the private for sale car parts forum: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=158385 All other posts with this activity are closed. There is a comment on page 3 about an arrangement between 666Dan and SAU but no explanation is provided. In the interest of fair trading and forum rules I don't think it's unreasonable to question this or ask for an explanation. Regards Wegs

Email sent re front left dash vent. Wegs

Hello, Where abouts in adel are you? Assuming this boss kit fits R32 GTR and the nardi wheel - do you know how far the boss kit brings the steering wheel out? Reason being the GTR wheel is quite dished and a Nardi classic mounted in the same base position might sit 1-2 inches further away from the driver. What is the wheel diameter? If you have a better picture showing the excellent condition can you please send to vehiclefx@gmail.com Thanks Wegs

Please PM or email vehiclefx@gmail.com if you have any lying around that you can depart with. Prefer pickup in Adelaide but will consider shipping from interstate depending on overall cost. thanks in advance, Wegs

Can you link or email any photos to me of the cluster with the EL conversion please? I want to see the difference to my stock setup. Email is vehiclefx@gmail.com Thanks Wegs

Looks great, i have a HID kit and thought the job was just to mount the globes in the R32 stock projector. What are the problems with doing that? Is the cutoff line a problem, or just not a good end result?

As Alan said, also does the PWR radiator allow for the factory radiator/fan shroud?

Sorry, forgot to mention it's R32 GTR. I dont' think i'm arguing with myself by voicing my options i've uncovered so far, i'm just illustrating i've done some research and can't come up with an affordable reliable solution and thought surely not everyone who has a pump die pays 1300+ to get it running again.... Thanks for your feedback so far.

Did a search but most of the aircon posts were about regassing and don't discuss dead pumps. Took my car into Natrad to get the aircon checked out. My pump isn't holding pressure and they recommended upgrading to a more modern setup (compressor, receiver/dryer, condensor) for around $1800 ($1300 without condensor). Apparently it will cost the same ($1800) just to recon the factory nissan item and because it's older technology it's not recommended. Anyone have any experiences with this? I could try sourcing a 2nd hand compressor but they tend to self destruct when left unused and if i'm going to put some effort in i want it to last.... just not able to justify nearly 2k to get cold air for 3 months of the year. Wegs