ISL33P

if is not good enough for the rear then one would more than safely assume it is not good for the front, especially since that is where the driver/passenger are situated but since it would be almost impossible to get in/out and see/drive, it is acceptable. Hopefully no one sits in the back then

Im with Brad, never used a single bend on each side of a main hoop.....except maybe a hotrod coming up Justin - not currently for either ANDRA but I know they are reviewing this and there are something things being tested to support a change in the rules

Spot on with the welding The 2nd bend is usually to follow the bend in the middle of the door where the window starts. You should be able to make a mounting feet in front of the factory rail which in under the rear seat. You would pull it is a little and put the hoop on the inside of it. I dont think there is no rule saying it has to be on the middle of the foot or plate, just states it's minimum surface area.

Just drop the hoop and weld it but if you want a bolt in you won't have to worry about. Especially if you want to keep the back seat make a bolt in and you only touch the interior if you need the cage in. The weld is only as good as the person welding it, so if you are comfortable and competent with mig, stick to it, it is completely acceptable as per the rules. I reckon there are most crappy tig welds then mig welds out there

Just drop the hoop and weld it but if you want a bolt in you won't have to worry about. Especially if you want to keep the back seat make a bolt in and you only touch the interior if you need the cage in. The weld is only as good as the person welding it, so if you are comfortable and competent with mig, stick to it, it is completely acceptable as per the rules. I reckon there are most crappy tig welds then mig welds out there

Considering there are now requirements for a cage at powercruise I doubt they could dictate what type of cage can or can't be used

Apologies, as Brad mentioned they do allow them but I have never made a bolt in cage, well not a bolt in main hoop and back stays.

Ps regardless of the type of use, I would never recommend a bolt in and that why they are not acceptable under CAMS and ANDRA, regardless of what any form of non-sanctioned motorsport may or may not allow

Considering you mentioned a rollover from the start, I would not recommend a full bolt in cage. Luckily rollovers arent all that common, I would be looking at things like front, rear and side impact as a priority. These kinds of impact are more common. A rear half, main hoop and back half would be a minimum if you intend on rolling over lol

cheers mate.......I really appreciate the feedback

some nice moly welding tips here.....don't forget, practice makes perfect!!!

looking at 20-30 metres for a decent 6 point cage, so that makes it around $600 in material @ $20 p/metre

do it do it!!

Personally I would try and make the runners as long as possible for an NA car, especially when it has relatively small capacity....well compared to v8's, and lacks the bottom end torque to fill in the power curve down low. Personally I would make a completely new flange/manifold to incorpoate the ITB's to suit the cylinder spacing.....it's not far off at all anyway. Is welding th ITB's to a flange an option? Ariel

Sounds like you have done the odd cage here and there Brad lol ANDRA is currently undergoing some major reviews of their cage requirements, so we will see what comes out of that. Having said that, maybe it's just luck but I doubt it, it's current standard seems to do the job on the track when it comes to occupant safety, so it can't be too bad. Personally I would prefer less bends in the front and not care too much about what is behind me, but basic specs for the front are quite similar for CAMS and ANDRA, but yes the rear half is COMPLETLY different.

Brad......BSA.....anyone???? Anyone have any questions? I reckon this will get some people started. I might put my 2 cents in to get things underway. From experience, for anyone wanting a roll cage or anything car related, know exactly what you want from the start. - Street or track or both? - removable or welded in or a combination of both? - material type? CDS or Chromoly? Moly is lighter but only a little more expensive. Disregard what anyone says about it being ridiculously more expensive. According to rules books, the - mig welded or tig welded? (IMO mig isnt an option, but a lot cheaper because it quicker but not as strong) - additional bars? roof X, side intrusions, windscreen pillars, harness bars, main hoop X, backstay diagonals, harness mounting, gussets? - what will need to be removed or cut inside the car to suit the roll cage? - will the cage builder want the car bare/stripped? There are the majority of the considerations, apart from your budget of course, to give you an idea of what kind of direction you want the car to go in. Since a basic 4 point, back half, cage is the most popular DIY cage. If anyone likes, I am happy to go through what you need to at least have a cage measured, which you can then have anyone with a tube bender, bend it for you and then head back home to continue the DIY instal.

Some of the recent work stainless steel fuel system to suit e85 - 2x 044 fuel pumps, carter lift pump, and thickwall stainless tubing with as little angle fittings as possible. All bent in a tube bender. exhaust manifold and dump pipe for Nissan Micra..... this is my first crack at an exhaust manifold and my first decent steel tig welding job. I am loving this steel business.....give me more LOL

Do you have the air con compressor bolts and bracket? Cheers, Ariel

Yeah sure do. The 1200 ute is getting all the above.

Here is some more of my latest work Machine and replace the top of a strut cover - machined the top off, not touching the baffles and replaced it with some new sheet Surge tank enclosure with removeable front Custom porting on CA18 cylinder head finished, assembled and ready to bolt on....complete custom intake manifold coming shortly Should be able to post up photos of the new fuel system for the Datsun ute if I finish it this weekend. Stainless steel lines from front to back as well as mounting a modified r31 fuel tank under the rear of the tray and surge tank in the front of the tray. The surge tank was going to be mounted underneath, but that will get in the way of the new suspension being installed. New sr20 s14/15 intake manifold flanges....did someone say complete custom intake manifold for under $1,000 just add a fuel rail and throttle body

wilderboy - NFI to tell you the truth....everything is gone except the parts listed above I am replying to PM's now

have one but it is bent where the starter motor goes since it was rolling around in the back of my ute. definitely fixable.....you can have the good clutch clutch with it if you come and get it

thats when this shed gets itself built......any volunteers for some labour work lol

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Who ever pm'd me a out the injectors, $50 delivered. All pm's replied and parts stripped ready to go. CAS $30 delivered 4x knock sensors $5 each Turbo $75 delivered Intake manifold - make an offer IACV $20 delivered TPS $10 delivered Stock coils $30 delivered