N13Astra

I bought a new instrument cluster as my old one packed itself but ive been having a problem. The speed displayed is wrong. When i drive, it doesnt start moving until i would assume im going about 20kph. What i found which could just be a conicidence is that the displayed speed seems to be in MPH. I put my old tacho in and the speed works fine (60kph = 2900rpm in 3rd). I then put the new one in and at 2900rpm in 3rd it reports ~36 KPH. How can i fix this problem if it can be fixed or is the tacho stuffed?

Well the car is still running and ive now fitted a 3" exhaust system from turbo with a high flow cat. At 10psi, all is running super! Apart from my stupid idle problem which i cant seem to fix. More annoying now cause i can hear it through the exhaust.

The cooler is 600x300x75, so about 4x bigger in length than stock. I've g-teched my car when it was stock and got 134kW, but ive yet to do it with the cooler. I THINK it is just as fast but it doesnt feel like it because its lacking the "kick" it used to have, so i wont know until i g-tech it again. Its definately caused lag, approx. 500-800 rpm extra. Time for exhaust and dump pipes.

Accepted mate. I did know about running unlimited boost. I just didnt know where to connect the controller to. Should have used some common sense. Anyways, the car SEEMS to run a little slower but im starting to think its not, because the cooler has acted like a buffer and i dont feel the boost kick anymore. Anyone comfirm that theory?

LOL, all good guys. I knew i had made a mistake and now that ive reconnected it the car is running great again. So thanks for your help.

LOL, thanks guys. I've made the connect and yes now its boosting to lnly ~7 PSI so thats all sorted. I'll take her for a drive tonight and make sure its performing as it did with the stock cooler otherwise ill need some suggestions on how to check for vac leaks. *Money grows on the tree in the backyard. Unfortunately the birds at it all.

Nah not my engine bay. They are random photos i managed to find but my bay is pretty much the same. I'll give it a crack tonight when i get home from work.

Ah ok... can i also use the one i have circle since its A LOT closer?

Yeah i did install it myself. I know its not safe to run the turbo as it is right now thats why im not really pushing it but i didnt connect the controller because i didnt know where i could have connected the boost controller after the install since it didnt have a nipple on the trottle body pipe. I cant seem to find that line where i can place the t-piece. The kit did come with about 1 meter worth of hose and a t-piece but i havent got a clue what i should intercept. Can someone take a picture of the line jeffworld2 is talking about or can someone circle the line in the photo provided? If i can put the controller back on without getting a nipple welded on that would be awesome. Thanks for your help guys. Much appreciated.

Its a R33 Series 2. I'm running full boost because the kit i used didnt have a nipple for the boost controller. Although its running full boost, it just doesnt go the same as it did with the stock intercooler. Even if i did back it off to say 7psi, i doubt it will go any better. So what else should i check?

Hi guys, I just finished installing my Hybrid FMIC and took it for a test drive only to notice the car performing worse than it did on the stock intercooler. The Stock boost gauge in the skyline is reading above 7+, but like i said the car just isnt anywhere near as quick. The Cooler size is 600x300x75 and the turbo is running 14psi. Everything else on the car is stock. What could be causing this problem?

Its on an R33.

No mods, stock r33. Just a pod air filter. Idle problem only when cold ive found now. Still cant find problem...

Thanks for the info guys. I've been searching around and seems to be the AFM. One other thing i should say is if i open the oil cap while the car is idling, the idle drops quite a bit and the car sounds like its going to stall? Vacuum problem maybe?

WOOT! I have bought this BABY!

No Air Con or Heater. PLYNX: I was thinking the same thing, but wanted to know of other problems which would cause same result.

I Have searched, couldnt find anything. Stock car apart from pod air filter. How do you do a factory reset?

R33 SII 96 Turbo Manual. THe problem is that when the car is idling, it will start to rev down to 500-700rpm and recover, and then start over again and so on. It stops after a few secs but starts over again. What could be the cause?

Can anyone tell me what the HICAS light means if its on? Can someone PM me the service manual for a r33 series 2? Also, the car seems to be cutting out at revs past 4000rpm. The guy reckons its the coil packs. Any thoughts?

Yeah 100% series II lights, but the head lights are not series II which has got be worried.

They look great, thanks for that. So i'm guessing a body kit is going to have to be custom made?

Hmm, ok. Well i was having a look at them and was thinking about putting the 2dr taillights on with the 2dr rear bumper. I say this because it seems as though the tail light shape is the same, but the bumper is higher since the indicator and rev light are in the middle (like a R32) How about that? Edit: One other thing, am i going to have trouble finding a body kit for the rear? and parts? eg 2dr series 2 head lights and bumper.

got a link? PM or email ([email protected])

I found a Skyline R33 1996 S2 4 door turbo man, and was wondering if the tail lights on it could be changed to the standard series II 2D coupe skyline tail lights. The ones that are on the car now, arent like the normal ones but instead look like the older ones. Its hard to explain without a picture. Anyways, can i put the other lights on to it? I would think so, as they really never change the body shape if its the same series. Also, would i be able to change the front headlights to the Series II 2D coupe head lights?

bump