heller44

Check battery voltage, charge voltage - at idle and above 2krpm. Hicas doesn't like low volts.. Sounds like alternator problem, but check first before you decide to rip stuff apart, might be something as simple as a bad earth.

Caused by.. bad connection?

If I was running iridiums, I'd be needing to change them every ~10thou same as the coppers.. Fk that.

Unless you have a 26 hiding in the engine bay, then good luck finding mounting locations for the ballasts.. painfulsob.

Sounds like a set of gtr rims is in order..

How about every aftermarket suspension for the 4by's.. no more lift kits, thank you come again.

soft targets / easy votes, we all know why..

It's a ford mustang. could be anywhere from early 80's to early 90's as the body shape didn't change much.

they don't. different type of sensor.

I decided to go with the sumitomo callipers and adapters on 324mm discs.. but the bloody things wouldn't fit under my 17" gmax rims.. threw on a set of standard 32 296mm slotted discs with a1rm pads. Feels a hell of a lot better than before anyway but will see when I finally get it out onto a track and play.

*facepalm... no speedo, no speed sensitive steering.. sheesh. mechanical cable drive from the gearbox sender to the cluster, built into the back of the speedo itself is something like a tacho generator that transmits a speed pulse to both the hicas unit and the ecu.

A1RM's on 32 gtr sumitomo's with rda slotteds.. bedding was horrendous, I thought I had screwed up the squeeling was that bad, but once I bed them in it is great.

I dropped mine in with a replacement harness and new plugs gapped at 1.1, not missing any more and feels to have a meatier mid range, but probably just my imagination. Why is everyone going straight for a closer gap?

I've been playing in the red dust up north, no net access for monkeys up there.. only flew back in tonight. I reckon you both have very different faults to each other, andrew yours looks to be a fault condition with the hicas unit, so you need to do a diagnostic on the hicas, look in the tutorial section for the procedure on how to do it, it is a pain to get it right but you should be ok.. count the flashes and work out what part of the system is faulting. Dfault, yours isn't even starting out and then faulting, probably throw a multimeter on the pins for the solenoid on the rack and see if you are getting any voltage there at all. Possibly where I would start.. nice easy check anyway. Once that is done you can go from there and see wether it is mechanical or electrical.

G'day, I'm led to believe that my set turned up in perth on last tuesday.. the office neglected to let me know that they had arrived. Hope to throw them on next week after I get back, and give them a try. Thanks again mate.

Also the early gts4 was blue. Clock in the bottom corner of the rev counter. Redline at 7k. I do have the pinout changes hidden away somewhere if anyone ever needs them, sort of cryptic but followable.

The answer isn't a simple yes / no either.. There is a difference between early and late instrument clusters, I have an early gts4 with a late gtr cluster in it now. There are a number of wiring changes on the connectors between the two.

Should be the same for pretty much any manual gearbox with 2 switches on the side.

One is neutral switch, other is reverse. Grab a multimeter and shove the gearshift each way and you will find it out easy, one will only operate in reverse position.

Did you remove all the electrics for the hicas as well? The hicas module controls the power steering assist, so if there is a problem with that, or if it isn't even there anymore, the steering will always be heavy. If the hicas electrics are still in there and working, did you reconnect the solenoid on the steering rack when you changed it out? Does the steering start off light and then go heavy after a few minutes? Why did you change the rack and pump anyway?

Up and running again. Ended up having to rebuild my master cylinder as that dumped its seals at the same time... bloody thing is relentless. Bedded new brakes in and all seems good. Thanks again for providing this.

Turned up today, on the car already.. First time it has been on all fours for about a month and a half. Now just to bleed the brakes..

32. Gtr / gts4 mats seem to have a different shape of drivers side mat to accomodate the tunnel relief for the transfer case, from what I have been able to find out anyway. I have never had any mats to compare with.

Thanks for that. James.

On the website it doesn't show a difference between 4wd and rwd skyline mats. There is a difference in the nismo part numbers between the two as well. Is this the case that we have to specify the type, or is only one type available?