heller44

G'day mate. Just wondering if the order has been sent away, or is there an eta on the discs? James.

Do you know how? There is nothing, signal in / out that is common between the hicas and attessa modules.. might be something like a gound path or something like that.. maybe.. Not saying that you aren't right, just trying to learn more about these systems and what happens particularly in fault conditions to make diagnosing them easier.

Criminally simple. Modified mine as per above. Didn't remove the switch, just unplugged and worked on the plug end.

G-sensor - lives under the centre console. Comes with a visual indicator if the unit itself is dead, check every connection from one end to the other first before you decide to rip anything out. Check to see if the wheel sensor is connected solidly and with a clean joint. 4wd and 4ws don't really affect each other that much.

Looking through the diagrams I thought you might be onto something. Went outside, multimeter in hand. Each coil measures at ~4.8Ω Only problem with throwing a 4.7Ω resistor in for each coil is that if it is driven continuously, then it would need to dissipate 30w each, or there abouts. Maybe a higher value can be used instead without the hicas module freaking.. hopefully the window of tolerance for the solenoid driver circuit is wide.

Chasing down ignition problems I came across this: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/251366 with this: http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/2202...?cPath=882& Just another option.

No relays in the headlight wiring. Just the switches in the binnnacle and hi/low.. Normal that low turns off when on high, but you can wire it up so that they stay on. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Du...0&start=60#

At the drags it is a sidestep of the clutch with about 6500 on the dial, but, I have a lil advantage..

So... the injectors aren't firing so you are changing the starter motor?

2LV8ETR and Cerbera are bang on the money. It will be problem with the speedo cable, I will put a beer on it that it is the square drive end that goes into the rear of the cluster, seperating from the cable itself. And I LIKE beer, more than people some days.. The hicas module doesn't see any change in speed but sees other inputs changing so after a short time it provides an output that has been determined to be safe over a wide range of vehicle speeds. The key off on just resets the timer, goes into rwd cos you made the attessa module freak be being in motion when it came back online, so it faulted to rear only. You have to remember that not a lot of mechanics have any experience with these vehicles, even nissan doesn't want to deal with them, so we do most of the work ourself, learning from each other. Enthusiasts I think we are called. I am not a mechanic, or an auto monkey of any sort, but the electrics in my bunky I wouldn't let anyone else work on, having been through almost every part of the system in this steaming pile over the last two years.. Much rather bend my back, and use my brain than hand over my hard earned to someone else to learn.

Apexi pods use a 4 bolt flange mount, can't use the hks style.

September is bloody cold at the plex. Last year I went down and was unsociable by hiding in the car to stay warm...

There's your problem. In rwd I can't get tracktion in 1st at anywhere near full throttle, and even in second it is a joke.

Check all your earth's, sounds like one is a bit off. First suggestion anyway.

lots more headroom.

Commercial project.. ok, I'll send you a pm. I gather you are over east somewhere otherwise I'd say come around for a beer and discuss it.

Control 20 functions, need a dust and waterproof enclosure, Human machine interface, that sort of programming, you really do require an automation tech / engineer sort of level of knowledge.. Going well past the capabilities of a logo and a beginners ability. Not really the same as a 12v timer / controller is it. If this is for some sort of educational project purpose then maybe it is a bit more than you can chew, plus cost of parts will be prohibitive.. If it is for a commercial enterprise then I really suggest getting a quote or few from some engineering contractors in this field.. Only way I can see it ever working. ps, rs just sell stuff, not support.

Looks like I will finally get around to installing mine.. but a question. I can't really see anywhere to mount the ballasts, my ebc solenoids and pod filters get in the way of easily mounting the ballasts. Any other suggestions? Thanks.

^ same, orc 709d. When new it was a right bitch to get going, unless using a generous serving of rev's and a rapid release.. now it is very nice but with a decent bite. Seems to handle everything I have thrown at it so far, and I'm not real kind. Jangles like everything is stuffed with the clutch in, makes a funky noise on cranking.. all part of the character.

Relay logic on a moving piece of equipment? Maybe 30 years ago.. just begging for 50% downtime otherwise. PLC only way to go, or embedded microcontroller. If the operation is reasonably simple, you could use that logo that I posted earlier with an expansion module to cater for a greater number of I/O, or just go for something that isn't as much of a toy. My recommendation, find someone who has a bit of background in automation controls to do this for you.. mind you, they usually aren't cheap.

I was fairly certain that the gts4 ecu is the same as the gtst ecu, no difference between manual or auto.. Auto cars have an additional module for transmission control behind the drivers side kick panel, I still have mine wired in. As always I can't confirm, but just going by my set of wiring manuals there is no difference in the external wiring..

After getting halfway through this project, and then finding that I needed to remove both front driveshafts as 3x cv boots were stuffed and had to be repaired in between, It seems that I have a rare set of 17" rims that the 324mm discs and caliper adapters will not fit under.. Seems that the inner diameter of these gmax m100 rims are just too close. Just a heads up for anyone else heading this route. Now I have to work out which way to go. ffs.

..anytime.

According to the r32 wiring diagrams, the 2x det sensors / aac valve / & air regulator are on a sub harness, connected via an 8 pin (2x4)connector. But... I have never pulled the motor to see, just going off the diagrams. pge 790 of 804 btw, top left corner.

Maybe something more along the lines of http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/...t&R=0499845 As controllers go it is reasonably easy to learn to program. Depends on wether you want just straight on / off for solenoids, or varying duty cycle ie pwm control.