heller44

True, could just be needing a bit of adjustment.

709D?.. Yep. Also funky when you push in the clutch.. Same here.

Do you have a reason? Different design, higher output, or do you just like the colour?

From here. (have to give credit) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ge...or-t244080.html Use this. http://racingdownloads.com/racing_software-22.html And this. http://www.jbskyline.net/R32/GTR/Specs/ From memory I thought I was knocking on 3100 @ 110. This is with a 26 and gtr box, with 4.375:1 gears (standard gts4 crown and pinion). Doesn't sound or feel nasty, just like driving a smaller 4 cyl car. Can't take my car for a drive as it has almost all the front end out atm, new brakes and front driveshafts getting reconditioned.

Just so you know, the exhaust on my car that you saw was same.

hmm. So you are trying to tell me that every japanese gtr owner actually serviced their gearbox, ever.. or gave a crap. Let alone factor in the added power and torque on the mechanical workings and the added load on the output of the 4wd system..

Only problem with a 26 box instead of a 25 one is that you know that the 26 will have copped a lot more abuse over its lifetime..

That wouldn't have been an HKS super drager would it?

If you don't have the tools to do it yourself, bug a gtr bonnet and catch assembly, do it properly. Bought my car with the gtst-style bonnet that had been made into a gtr style. Angle grind off the front down part and cap it with a nismo lip. Done. Rough as buggery.

Making it hard for myself to get there.. replacing brakes.. no probs there but found that I had multiple problems with front driveshafts. Just finished pulling both of them, what a fun job.

Just torque transfer by fluid coupling in the transfer case can produce the same effect. I would suggest checking the pump again, and seeing if the pressure you are getting out is correct, not just hearing a noise.. R32 manual states between 294 and 490kPa (43-71psi). If you are getting the correct pressure and still no drive, then clutch pack..

Welding won't really help you with the sump issue. GTS4 block is different to the standard gtst block. Front diff lives in the sump, so block accomodates this. If you really have to have the gts4, and need (not want) to do an engine swap, How about getting hold of an rb30 block and an rb25de head, use a sump adapter and read forums for others that have done this. Long run, I'd say don't bother unless you have a lot of time on your hands and can do almost everything yourself. As much as I hate to say it, buy a gtr with a rebuilt motor and replaced turbs. That is what you are trying to build anyway and you get all the good bits that go along with it. Also, don't expect people to reply in just a couple of hours, especially since this question has come up quite a few times. If the search function is being stubborn, try using different terms, sometimes it doesn't like me either. Recently there was a young guy on here that fitted a stagea rb25det (stag was 4wd as well), maybe chase down that thread.

If you supply me with an email address I can send you the manual in pdf format.

709D in a 32, which according to the orc 709D manual is the same, I used the same parts, 30501-N1604 bearing sleeve, and 30502-14601 throwout bearing. Went through two bearings, mechanic reckoned it looked wrong so took it off and in doing so ruined it, so had to get a new one. Do you have the manual that came with the clutch?

last two I have removed, it was a long screwdriver, through one side out the other and use that to get it started.. made a hell of a mess.. almost thought i had broken my hand trying to get the bastard undone.. next time will be the last, relocation kit incoming. to undo it properly you need the three pointed claw type attachment that grips onto the end of the filter.

If the light comes on after ~10 mins of driving, then the hicas module is still wired in and working.. sortof (with faults). I would guess that the module that is there but disconnected would be in the centre of the parcelshelf and is almost round? That would be the amplifier for the stock stereo. Good thing it was disconnected cos it is crap. In the tutorial section there is a write up on how to do a hicas diagnostic, work out how to do that and you should be set, unless it is one of the inputs you need for it to work.. Usually 10 min fault is something like steering wheel sensor. A steering wheel boss that doesn't have the particulars to work with the steering angle sensor will give this fault, as will the steering wheel being out by a bit. Car thinks that you are constantly turning for 10 mins and throws up its hands.. ..as well as checking power steering fluid.

Hoping to take mine down on the 27th.. if no rain that is. Should have it running alright again by then.

g70 is just a friction modifier. gearbox oil looks weird if you drop it after putting this stuff in though. I was suffering bad crunches from 3rd to fourth.. seemed to do the job.

Another option is VMX80.. loads cheaper than smurf's blood. Usually recommended with a dose of nulon g70 in with it.

Do you have the installation manual for the clutch? The 709d in my car came with a listing of all the nissan part numbers for the throwout bearing and carrier combinations. Which ones were put in?

Same as above here.. only hint it isn't stock is the controller, take that away and noone will ever be the wiser.

may 27 is the last run. motorplex.com.au

Haven't thought about doing the two sessions again, morning and afternoon? Might be enough interest..

How do you know that the made in japan ones aren't coming from a factory in china, or taiwan, or outer beyond siberia by enslaved eskimos? Global economies now... I am old enough to remember when to have something labeled made in japan, it was the same as now having made in china.. Go by results not cost, so anyone else with any other results please keep posting up there findings.

Thanks, discs arrived safely.