heller44

1. go down to super-nasty-car-stuff and buy a set of feeler gauges. 2. do it yourself.

Put the car up on ramps, slide in under the drivers side floorpan and look forward at the rack. It is very obvious what you are looking at when you get there. Try unplugging the solenoid before you go to the trouble of a switch.. You might not like it.

The solenoid is built into the steering rack itself, where the steering column meets the horizontal part of the rack the solenoid is like a large wart on the intersection, two wires coming out of it to a two pin inline connector to a harness that dissapears up into the nethers of the car.. You might be able to see easier than me, the 26 and its attendant bits fills the engine bay that well my monkey mitts can't follow.. If there is no solenoid on the stag, you would have to insert something like a bypass valve in the hydraulic loop to reduce the assist. Not something I would be playing with. Have a look and see, I would be suprised if it doesn't have it since it is basically a 'line anyway. One way to alter the solenoid drive signal is to use something like the jaycar kit, digital pulse adjuster.. takes a duty cycle input and modifies it for the output.. Seem to remember an autospeed artical using this kit for adjusting the steering response on a lexus or something a while back. James.

Does the stag have variable assist at all? One thing you could do for track use with the 32 is shove a switch in line with the rack solenoid, open the circuit. My car was like this for over a year cos the git that wired everything up forgot to wire the rack in, along with the clutch switch, reverse light, speed signal, etc etc... was quite driveable, even carpark speeds weren't a problem, if you climb under the car, and look from the back of the rack forward, you will see the solenoid where the steering column mates up. Just unplug it there and test.. The unit I was thinking of making would just take a speed input and generate the solenoid drive.. Letting you lock out the hicas without a fault and being able to adjust the gain of the steering to how you wanted it.. Reasonably simple circuitry just haven't found time effort motivation..

Basically, on a 32 anyways, you have the mechanical speedo drive to the dash cluster. Then from the cluster you get a pulsed output relative to speed (frequency changes not duty cycle) that is transmitted to the hicas / ps module in the boot. This then works out what is meant to happen and outputs a signal to the solenoid on the power steering rack (front of car) that changes the hydraulic assist effort. This signal is fixed frequency but varying duty cycle. I understand with 33 and 34's it is the same, just no hicas hydraulics, but power steer assis is still hydraulic solenoid, same same. To transfer the lot into another vehicle you would need some sort of module to replicate this completely and having a speed input available, using a hicas ecu wouldn't work cos it will fault with not seeing the the correct responses from the hicas, wheel sensors, steering wheel angle sensor. As well as using a rack with the solenoid on it. I have thought about making a unit up to remove the hicas ecu and just do the steering assist but haven't been arsed yet. Got my hicas / power steering all working before I made it that far. If any of that made sense, well.. James. *edit ps, definately progressive, I have a graph here from the gtr workshop manual, and a couple of cro photos from when I was discussing this with SK a long time ago..

same same. How about a report user button in the pm section, or a way to forward the offending pm to a mod? Just an idea..

How did you fix the leak? I'm fairly sure that a couple of mine may be similar. Not a good tune, rich as, and a baby gtst size tank..

Just wondering, you found a small leak where? Are you talking about the injector insulators? I miss the economy I had before I fixed everything, was getting almost 400k's to a tank, now lucky to make 200.. oh well. More fun now anyways.

I had a similar issue, rich at idle and cruise, lean on boost. Turns out that the vacuum reference diaphram on the regulator had been destroyed, therefore keeping the fuel at base pressure and not following manifold pressure.

From memory, 43psi base pressure, vac line disco'd from reg.

Why? Good info in here for others.. Learn from other's experience instead of the hard way.. I have never bought a car without getting at the least a cover note. Can't afford insurance, can't afford the car.

I'm happy with the kings lows in my car with adjustable koni's..

hmmm.. think of it this way, if you removed your brain could you still breathe? Same thing with the abs ecu..

I might as well ask here.. My windscreen on the bunky has been attacked by what looks like a scourer right where line of sight is, about a 1/2'x1/2' patch. Annoys the fugg out of me when driving. Will a replacement windscreen be covered under the free windscreen a year on the insurance? Or is it just for cracked / smashed / badly chipped? Shannons if that makes any difference. Thanks,.

Now, that was always the case previously, when you only had a choice between OEM and splitfire. Now there are quite a few different suppliers of ignition coils, and I am hearing of a few failures of splitfires lately, same as any other product. I have been looking around as my stockers are definately stuffed and in need of replacement. Personally I think I will be taking a punt on a different, cheaper, brand. As long as there is warranty and from a known supplier that is willing to back the product I can't see any difference. I have yet to see any evidence of one brand being better than another, other than those rubbish tests where they compare new coils of whatever brand against 15-20yr old stockers. I also can't be arsed paying top dollar just for something that does the same job but has the brand name tax. Leaning towards the coils from performance-wise myself, but they don't have s2 coils yet I don't think. Here might be a solution for your car..-> http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 just another option. James.

All 32's were analogue (cable) drive. Pull the cluster out and you'll see the end of the cable, I'd place bets its come off.

You rounded off the head of the bolts or stripped the thread? Rounded off bolts I use the next size down in the nearest imperial socket, usually can knock it on the remains and undo the bolt. Only use sockets you won't worry about breaking or otherwise ruining. Best prevention is to use good quality tools with the correct size socket.

044 in a 32gtst style tank here.. using a fitting from pirtek with a sock filter from ford spare parts.. works a treat. Didn't really trust the 044 screen.

similar, just had the high pressure cleaner sitting out, quick spray and nice and fluffy again.

I never measured it but you could use a fuse closer to the current draw of your pump. You got me interested so threw the clamp on to my car just then, 9.4A continuous didn't seem to change at all. Driving a bosch 044 intank. I dare say that a stock pump or gtr pump wouldn't use that much, throw a 15A fuse on there, the wiring will definitely handle greater than than the current required to pop a 15A fuse. Measure yours if you want, I don't have any others to compare against.

same door. Only difference is if the reo bar is in the door or not.

There are differences in the pin configuration for r32 series cars for certain years, try it and see.. I have a late r32 gtr dash in an early r32 gts4. Lots of electrical crap was wrong but it is easy to shift the wiring around in the connector.

Hand port-match the stockers, just so there isn't any vast difference where the flanges meet. Won't have to worry about cracking manifolds either.

.. could be worse.. I fitted my sticker at dusk just before I was going out, now it is SA WA <-- U went awol on the backing and I didn't notice.. oh well.