heller44

Are you asking about the feed to the pump itself or inside the tank for an aftermarket pump? Outside just twitch and solder and heatshrink the lot. Inside you can do the same but I am unsure that heatshrink will last immersed in fuel. I used crimps done properly.

If the light comes on, there will be a fault listed. What do you have coming up when you do the hicas diagnostic? These cars might seem it at first glance, but they aren't all that complicated.. Just need to know the right way to approach the problem. I've managed to get my power steering, hicas, and 4wd all working again when the monkeys that had the car previously were masters of the twitch and tape method of installing.. with wrong wires.. At one point I had nutted out the waveforms for the solenoid control and was going to build a module to do the conversion from speed to power steering solenoid driver but worked out how to fix mine before I had gotten that far.. would be the ideal solution for those that want to remove and lock out hicas but still have good power steering.

Just so you know, the gts4 and gtst clutch master cyls are the same, it is only the gtr's that get rorted cos of the booster.. almost 3x the price.

I have kings lows with koni shocks. Probably not a great setup. The better choice would be to get a spring shock combo that is matched.

I don't know enough about the wiring system in the 33 to be a lot of help, I have the complete wiring set for the 32 though and have had to repair quite a lot to get the hicas and power steering working properly on my car. If you can lay your hands on a copy of the 33 schematics that would be great, but I haven't seen any about as of yet. If the diagnostic threw out engine rev as a fault then i'd be making sure that the engine speed signal was getting to the hicas module. I wouldn't assume that the 25 the diag unit spat out is the same as the 25 listed for the hicas fault, unless you know better.. If you do a diagnostic with the turn steering wheel x times drive forward crap what fault code do you get coming up then? Removing hicas and locking it out won't fix the steering issue.

How do you think the speed sensitive variable assist power steering works then? Electrical solenoid on the steering rack actuated with a varying pwm signal. Electronically controlled.

Insurance won't give you a loaner while yours is in for repair?

If one is still open let me know, I'll drag the bunky out.

I am led to believe that the r31 doesn't fit by anothers report. I have only just fitted my replacement clutch master cylinder assembly this afternoon, dead easy to do, if you take half an hour you are moving slow. Bought from kudos (supplier on here) for 110 delivered. 1 1/2 days from ordering to arrive here in perth, fitted nice, can't get better than that. Suppliers here most times can't provide that level of service.

Where did you get the new master cyl from and how much was it? After being a very rare event, ie only when other people have driven my car, my clutch pedal is doing the drop to the floor thing now and needs a new master cyl. Everything else is new last thing on the list.

A lock bar won't fix you power steering woes. Search for hicas diagnostic. You will need a working hicas dash light for the pulse train though so fix that first.

Exchange rate screws you on hks kits. For example nengun is asking almost au$4500 for the gtss kit now. Bit much for the hks tag. Fitting kit for the garretts isn't that many gaskets to have to purchase anyway. Has the price of garretts gone up with the dollar dropping or can they still be purchased for ~1200 still?

Worst part I found was removing the oil and water lines from behind the turbos, It took me about 2 days working nice and slowly removing everything as I didn't want to damage anything and as soon as I started getting a bit hot under the collar I'd close the shed doors and walk away for a while. Other than that it wasn't that bad. I'd never had to do anything like this before, not a mechanic either. Mainly worked on falcons and such where there was heaps of room and very simple setup. When I took mine out I followed the workshop manual. Putting them back in I sat and thought about how bloody hard it was getting them out. Mounted the front turb and manifold first, then the rear manifold, then the rear turbo I brought up past the bellhousing and bolted it up. Then I fitted all the oil and water lines afterward. There are some good writeups on how to do it on here and www.gtr.co.uk Have fun.

find someone with small hands..

I originally bought a pair of tie rod's (ie the bit you are looking for not the tie rod ends) for my front steering setup as the original mechanic reckonned they were an issue. The only place I found was through nissan spares and they were damn pricey. Ended up being the tie rod ends instead so I have the new inners still wrapped up in my shed (fronts though so no help for you unfortunately). Talk to brad at WA suspensions. Great bloke, sauwa member and he rectified my suspension problems. He should be able to help you, even take it ther and get a check before you decide to order any bits and ask what he reckons.

20/25's are another option as well. My 707160-5's didn't come with any gaskets either. Nissan parts were able to get everything I needed easy enough, or you could try the site sponsors.

I used the ticking time bomb excuse..

I have kings lows in my car, with the stock u/s gtr shocks it was almost undriveable, no control at all. Spend the extra coin and get a set of shocks that will match your spring rate. Unless you are just doing it for looks not handling then whatever yanks your chain..

4.375:1's in mine, sits about 3100rpm at 110... nothing major. Nice and sprightly off the line.

As long as your stocker is working it will just do the same job. I only replaced mine as the diaphram was shot, and the nismo one came along at a real cheap price.

Got pinged for tie rod ends and reverse light not working when I first put mine over the pits. They seemed to miss the punched out cat and a whole host of other crap that I've fixed since then.

Interesting replies.. I bought my car with a single plate of some sort, had a very very heavy pedal. Used to spin off in second coming onto boost. Installed an orc twin, expecting it to be a real pain to drive. Not at all. Pedal feel is light as practical, bite when new was very harsh but has gotten better with use.

My last three bike helmets I bought from Total Motorcycle Accessories in vic park, just opposite the maccas there.

Any objections to a random spectator? I won't have my brakes done by then so unwilling to hurt them much in the condition they are in, but don't mind watching.

Whilst that is true, the fan on the front is for neither the engine (normal operation) or for the aircon. It is an overheat fan set to start when the engine temp becomes too high and runs as an emergency fan.. It can be easily wired to run as an assist fan for the aircon as well, but that is not its designed purpose. To the OP, turbo cars are more susceptable to increased ambient temps compared to n/a cars. You should see a noticeable difference in performance. Check your cooling system anyway, make sure that it is in good condition, good coolant /clean radiator /hoses ok /thermostat ok, usual service stuff needed if you want your car to be reliable in summer conditions.