heller44

The difference between cool, and almost overheating, cannot be seen on the stock gauge. Watching my pfc hand controller there is almost a 30 degC range where the temp needle doesn't move.

Rears are the same size anyway. Don't use fronts on rear as that will severely upset the brake balance as well as being an engineering h/f. Throw the gtr ones on the front, or get the adapters for your calipers with 324mm discs.

And the difference between pink and purple is?... the tightness of your grip.

well.... it can lead to premature wear of the rear tyres.

There is always a preload on the transfer case in a 33 or 34, just removing power or hydraulics isn't enough to back it off and you'll kill the plates. It also means that the attessa is quicker to respond in a 33 or 34 compared to a 32.

less globes.

Clamp the return from the fuel rail, that will tell you if the pump can't keep up or the fpr is screwed. I had the exact same symptoms, mine was a torn diaphram in the fpr so it was leaning it off all the time, as well as a fuel pump with ~10v at it when at full throttle.

Thanks for that reply, rev210. That is exactly the sort of first hand experiences and information that I needed.

There is one big problem with taking it to the drags. You might find you like it.

2860-5's with dumps, injectors, afm upgrade, and pfc.. Making 350rwhp at the moment. Stock before, everything. Even though my previous dyno run and the one after were done on different dynos with a slightly different settings used, When I plotted the old run over the new one the two runs start rising at almost the same road speed, with the -5's just walking away after max psi was reached. On the road it doesn't feel much different in the low revs, but with a lot more urge in the mid, and without the umph slowing as much to revlimit (set at 7500rpm). Hope my experiences help others. James.

I have always used decent equipment, and I would have to say that I have a tool fetish, so don't think that I don't totally understand. Looking at the differences between the varied cam gear sets I can only see the differences being the fasteners, the colour and shape and the material used.. Fasteners aren't a problem as lots of brand name equipment I have had to modify out of the box to make it serviceable to my standards. Colour and shape, who gives a toss, as long as clearance is ok and the design isn't weak but from what I have seen that shouldn't be a problam as they all seem to be copies of tried units. This just leaves the material. HKS cam gears of old are known to wear badly, with a change in the gear metal this has supposedly been fixed. What type of material was this? What do other manufacturers use? All the ebay ones seem to use aluminium alloy either T-6061 or AL7075-T6.. Is this an inherent design flaw? It looks like cams and cam gears will be on my list sooner rather than later, so I would like some information to make an informed decision, rather than having to base my decision on whose has the bigger price tag for the name rights. James.

Hpi, mines, tomei, oodles of choices. Look around for second handies for the bargain buys, as long as it is made of decent stainless and the flanges are true you can't go wrong. I picked up a set of mines dumps and apexi front, all second hand stanless for 400 delivered. Might not be as nice as a new shiny pipe, but how long is your new shiny pipe going to look that way? I can't even see any of it so looks don't matter much.

I don't really understand the question mate. I have pulled apart the mixer actuator module and showing the broken solder contacts on the board-side of the plug, showing a pic of the plug connection from the outside, and a whole pile from the the copper side of the circuit board on the inside.

It would be making it better with mine, no wing on a 32 boot, you have to watch and hold onto it or make sure your head is out of the way when it opens..

there is no obd1 on r32 skylines. nissan used the consult protocol. look in the group buy section under consult.. something. unit made by NewKleer. Good stuff and a smart cookie.

Same as every one else plus the op, post count +1. shouldn't this be in a wasteland, any wasteland?

try repairing them first

Might also possibly be fuel pressure regulator. Mine showed simillar symptoms due to the diaphram being stuffed, rich us buggery idle and cruise, and lean as hell on boost, so be careful if it is.

12.238sec @ 115.97 mph 60' 1.905sec Good night, 9 runs in total.

Me. I want that 12.

193k's round trip. Feel a bit second hand after it as well. I had a good time, felt a bit like a third leg being new and all, without a navigator either, but was made to feel welcome. Nice casual drive, tomorrow night I get to really clean the spiderwebs out. Hoping to crack into the 12's.

Low beam, projectors are more than likely H3C globes.

And here is the reason why it was playing up, and I dare say the exact same fault with both yours and __PhaseShiftDown's cars as well. piccies You can clearly see where 4 solder joints on the back of the connector have broken away, one more looks like it is almost gone, and the last is showing stress. Reflowed the lot with new solder and reassembled. Easiest way I found to remove the module was to pull the radio bracket with the ac/heater controls out as well, and work through the hole. After you release the rod all the screws are on the top or sides of the unit, none underneath. Unclip the harness from the little jumper cable that is mounted on the top of the module, don't unclip the connection underneath until you have it out. Didn't take all that long. James.

My car came with the original dash, about that many k's, an '89 model. Dash was in the boot though and a gtr one had been fitted, probably done about 250000 instead but who gives a f. Look at condition of vehicle, compression and leakdown test on motor, and wether you actually like it or not. Don't buy the first one you look at though.

what is your centre of rim to the top lip of the guard measurement at the monent?