heller44

rubbish. Decent wheel alignment and fixing anything that is worn out from the car being so damn old.

You are heading in the right direction. Your power steering module is faulting, going into a failsafe condition. Hicas / power steering module same same. Do a hicas diagnostic and see what it is, probably steering angle sensor, as it thinks you are driving in circles. Your hicas fault light should be on though, maybe blown globe / disconnected / wiring fault? Will be impossible to do the diagnostic until you get that sorted.

My new dumps that I have just installed had the larger mounting hole, went to the local exhaust mob and picked up 2x thread reducers for the smaller size. Cheaper than having to replace both sensors.

Ahh, nope. Even with a switch rigged into the fuse line in to the attessa ecu (in cab fuse one) you still have to be at a standstill for it to reset, otherwise it will fault. Another way of faulting the atessa ecu is to turn the electrics off and then back on whilst still moving.

Just thought i might add a mention to this.. Rmoving the fuse in the cabin removes power to the attessa/abs ecu, removing the fuse in the engine bay removes power to the attessa pump motor. This also means that you can't just come to a stop and jam the engine bay fuse in, like you can with the cabin fuse, and expect awd to come back.. Engine bay fuse requires a shutdown of the electrical system and firing it up again as you have driven the awd/abs ecu into a fault condition, it needs a reset to go again. (more pertinent to those that have switches rigged up).

Nice work with the search fuction, pity the info is wrong, can't use falcon ones on a gtr, gtst is fine though.

2wd feels like driving my old ute, heavy front end and very tail happy. You shouldn't need to piggyback up the stock ecu, you 'should' be able to give the attessa module what it needs with a bit of creative wiring.

If possible, could you snap some pics of the instalation?

Thanks for the reply. Thats the way I was going to do them, but thought there may be a slightly smarter way of going about it. The only reason I can think to take the motor out at the same time is if you want to do oil pump, crank snout mods or anything else internal.. not really worth it otherwise for a backyarder. If I was paying someone to do it then it might be different. It wasn't all that painful to get the originals out, even with my mitts, and I hadn't done it before. Picked up a set of old mines' dumps in stainless. Good condition as well.

Found this other thread ( http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...-R-t216074.html ) when I was looking for some information, posted a reply there before I realised where it was located, might get a bit more of a response here.. Basically, I have the originals out, the new ones all rigged up ready to go back in. I was looking at the task in front of me and wondered if it was easier to do front turbo first, then the rear one coming up from under the car? Or is the rear first, then the front the way to go, same as removal?

On this note, what is the easiest way of reinstalling turbos? Considering how much of a bitch it was to remove the rear manifold underside nuts, it must be easier to lift the rear turbo into position from underneath. Trialled the new one all rigged up through the hole and it 'should' be a possibility. Any other helpful hints would be appreciated.

Considering it is a relatively easy item to replace afterwards if it is an issue, you could try it with the stock item and just monitor the iat's.

That may be so, but is it worth the effort time and money to convert a stock car over? If you consider what I have driveline wise to be a proper gtr.. which it is basically stock with only an hks catback and m's pods, now this engine made 221rwkw at 11psi with a very nice wide torque curve. Stock motor, turbs, injectors, computer, ecu, pump... How much effort, time, and money would you need to reach the same point? Now how much would swapping over to a gtr cost you? You get all the good bits as a starting point. Now I would never say that it is a dead set bad idea, but if you stand back and take a long look at the situation it might not be the most effiecient way of going about things. One other point about doing that sort of swap is the cost further down the track.. I have a pile of parts purchased to go in; pair of 2860-5's, orc twin, sard 700's, nismo afm's, pfc, 044, apexi pods, mines dumps and apexi front.. suspension was done just before it was taken off the road, and the brakes are due an upgrade after a bit.. It's like a credit card with infinite repayments.. I really suggest keeping the gts4 diff ratios, even though it hums a bit higher at highway speeds, it makes a difference in the get up and go. One thing I am happy is original, also the gts4 half shafts are meant to be a bit stronger than gtr offerings.

Speaking from experience. Save some money up, sell your car, and buy a gtr. You don't want all the headaches I have had. A gts4 sedan may be rare, but that doesn't mean it is worth the effort.

your search button must be broken then, might have to report it to an admin, may be something that can be fixed? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RB...rb20&st=260

The left hand module is your abs computer. In a gtr or gts4 it also doubles as the 4wd computer, ie both in the one module, but in yours just abs. The right hand side one is the hicas and speed sensitive power steering module. If there was a round one in betwwen the two, that would have been the audio amplifier, but it looks like you don't have that one from your pics. The engine ecu lives in behind the panel to the left of the front passengere's feet. The automatic ecu lives in behind the panel to the right of the driver's feet.

Another for castrol vmx80 and a tube of nulon g70. Fixed the hard to get fourth gear issue, and seems ok otherwise. Had it in for about a year, no track work though.

Being relatively new to turbo cars, and only having mine to play with, I do not have that much of a varied experience set, but I have yet to see any rear wheels that are magnetic. I know my stockers are a ceramic composit, but the 2860r-5's that I have here definately do not attract a magnet to them at all.

Which bearing carrier part number did you end up using? the same as the one I had marked?

Nope, garrett use inconel wheels too.

Since when have you needed an engineer's cert for this? My bunky has/had a 26, gtr brakes gearbox suspension and god-ugly m's pods when I bought it unrego'd and put it over the pits. Failed on the first try, had to get the reverse lights working and replace a tie-rod end. Wire on the reverse switch and a wipe over the tie rod with a clean rag and it was through no probs. This was about 2 years ago, so it might have changed since then, but no mention was ever made about having to do anything else.

I wouldn't use a conductive grease, as it heats up it would be liable to create a partial circuit away from the circuit required. No matter how well you apply it. I use senson electroguard http://www.senson.com.au/ grease for protecting contact areas in plugs and sockets, as well as covering terminals. Specifically for marine electronics and electrical equipment, but for anything that might be required to be better protected from corrosion interfering with the reliable of the joint. Great stuff for battery terminals as well. james.

I believe that it meant to make a bit of a racket with pedal in, can't see how going around a corner with pedal out could possibly be a clutch issue though. Maybe something undercar was left a bit loose or shifted a bit closer to something else and as the car goes around the corner, it now moves against another bit and makes a noise? What is the clutch like to drive compare to the original? james.

As far as I can tell, mine has always had the cover on, and the majority of the coil connectors on the loom are stuffed. Brittle with age the yellow inner part of each connector has failed.

Why not buy 33gtst or 32gtr discs to match up with the calipers?