heller44

Nissan matic d is the factory offering. That doesn't mean that you can't find options. Transmax z would appear to be an appropriate alternative. Redline lightweight shockproof is what most people go for as a bandaid solution for crunching synchro's, usually 4th. Unfortunately it is a GL5 oil that is not recommended due to being bad for the synchro material itself. That is why I went for the vmx80 +g70 as 1) it is know to work, 2) vmx80 is a gl4, 3) vmx80 is a damn sight cheaper than redline.. There are loads more options for gearbox oil, have a read around about gearbox oil threads, specifically gtr boxes as yours is almost one, on forums here and overseas. Make up your own mind.. James.

blind_elk, did going to the stagea diff sets give your car much longer legs? Still got the original ratios in mine and you know how it revs at 110.

I used vmx80, and nulon g70 additive. Same amount as a gtr box. Others have used motul, or redline, search for their opinions on that topic. *factory spec is 75-90 4.1l --------------- transfer case uses atf. ~1.8l don't put gear oil in there.

Last one I changed, packed it full of bearing grease, used a wooden dowel that was a close fit inside the bush, and just tapped it with a hammer and the hydraulic action of the grease on the back of the bearing popped it out. Easy.

Not quite right mate.. With the 33 and 34 4wd systems, there is always a certain amount of preload on the transfer case, so turning off the computer doesn't remove all the mechanical link. Therefore if you throw a 33 or 34 on a 2wd dyno and only pull the fuse and expect it to be ok, you will most likely toast your transfer case clutch pack. It doesn't all of a sudden come back on... james.

web site's all screwed here as well. gnat writing.. like little lines of dots on the screen instead of text.

I do apologise for bringing a long gone thread back again, but thought that this might be the most appropriate place. Finally been bothered to fix the power steering / hicas problem with my car.. took me a bit to find it but simple really. Never had hicas working properly with my car, always goes into a failsafe condition (heavy). Thought it might have been due to the broken speedo cable that I repaired with a dab of devcon one day.. No such luck. Seems that it was due to the late series 32 gtr dash that had been fitted. The pinout for the connectors on the back of the cluster differs, at least from the new gtr cluster, to both my old gts4 dash and the r32 wiring schematics that I have.. Bought the car and it was missing most gauges except for speedo and fuel. Warning lights on.. not oil pressure .. but hicas, 4wd, abs, headlight high beam indicator on when lights were turned off, indicator signals not correct either. Managed to sort out where everything should go from comparing the circuits on each cluster. Unfortunately I neglected to chase further into the speed sensor circuit on the cluster. The old dash just had what appears to be a switch, not much else.. The new dash has a zener diode across the pins for the sensor. I had the polarity reversed on the wires.. all but about 0.6v of the signal being generated was being shunted back to earth.. Swapped pins over and sweet. Hope this helps anyone. James.

I'm looking at buying an ORC 709D.. what do you mean by menace?

Same as cubes. Lightning show around 4 out of 6 coils. Stripped them out, layed on a few coats of electrical varnish and then high temp silicon around the frame parts where it meets up with the coil itself. Seems to have done the trick for now. Looking at the jjr coils as a replacement though.. james.

I mean, I'm going to make up a set of boards, rip a pair of the old housings apart and fit them in there. look here for a set of 33 lights done diy: http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48788 his pics http://www.members.aol.com/mattyjeff/Auto/LED/ I'll be doing it a similar way, but giving the board design to a professional pcb manufacturer to knock out so that everything is identical. His light use more led elements than the yahoo.jp pictures as well. james.

same as above here, vmx80 and g70.. fixed a bad 4th gear synchro issue in the bunky, nicely.

speedo will be the fitting on the end of the speedo cable, where it plugs into the back of the cluster

I sort of gathered that you weren't trying to be.. and neither was I. From links like here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ight+shockproof and from redline's own web site http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...mp;categoryID=6 from trying to find a close supplier locally and basically being told by a few people that it isn't the best for my box, main reason given was it is a GL5 oil, which is known to be bad for the brass component of synchro assemblies, and other forums browsing.. filtering I guess you would call it. I understand that it works well, but if even the manufacturer says not to use it, then I began looking for alternatives and that is what I found. Search around for GL5 and synchro. Make up your own mind. MTX is a lot cheaper though..

..or if the stocker is stuffed, as mine was (diaphram torn). Nismo fpr, so easy to bolt in even a monkey could do it. Looks almost stock.

..and then again, if you talk to people who know about oils, they will tell you to stay away from lightweight shockproof in the long run. I changed my gearbox oil to castrol vmx80 with nulon g70 additive. Had bad 4th gear syrncho issues before, now it is gone.. has taken a couple of tanks of fuel but its a lot nicer now. personal opinion. james.

Let me get this right.. you installed 550cc injectors into an rb20, without retuning or replacing ecu, all you did was turn the base fuel pressure down?

Since you are getting springs and shocks, I would really strongly suggest the sydneykid bilstein spring and shock packages in the groupbuy section, they are matched nicely valving and spring weight for your car, as well as having circlip height adjustment. If you can get ahold of it. Value for money mate. king springs, plus the cost of a set of bilsteins or koni's to match will set you back the same amount of a bit more and still be not as nice to drive. personal opinion though. james. (I've got kings lows and going koni's very soon)

Depends on your rolling diameter, not the width of the tyre.. Since 95sky's car is running the same sidewall percentage with wider at the back, attessa always sees the back running a bit slower than the front. No problem. It is when you do something like 245/35/18 front and 275/30/18 rear that it will be enough that it may freak. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html go here and put the two tye sizes in, If the back ends up smaller in diameter than the front, you will have issues. james.

I would have to agree with funky. Only thing is if you get the kings springs you will find that they will bottom out quite easily on things like speedbumps with stock shocks. I'm running kings lows with stock gtr shocks at the moment, was advised before I put them in that it might be an issue but as usual had to learn the hard way. Looking at just replacing the shock with a set of koni or bilstein as the spring setup I quite like. James.

There is no headlight relay. All the light current goes through the headlight switch contacts.. nissan goobers. Check blind_elk's response for what to try.

As long as the larger rolling diameter is on the rear, attessa will not chuck a wobbly. If the smaller rolling diameter is on the rear it will detect it as a loss of traction and attempt to engage. My car with new 325/45/17's on the front and worn 235/45/17's (although different brands) on the back was getting a surging both on the torque gauge and seat of the pants at highway speeds. Thats all the difference it takes. james.

No go on mine, still reading double. Waiting now until I have access to all my tools and going to throw a lead on the no1 plug and just clamp it on there, tomorrow.

ok, I'll give that a try.. Have to redo my timing before I can drive it again. Pulled the cas and timing cover off to inspect and test in preparation for my parts purchases. Stock bumpsticks unfortunately. Compression tests across the board were min 175 max 182.. thank god for that. New 2860-5's and tomei b's to buy now..

Any chance of this running again.. need a 3.5" flanged nugget.

Pic was straight off yahoo japan. If you talk to slidewize in the business traders section I think he can get them for you..