heller44

i like these more... pity i haven't found any local to supply.. might have to make my own.

Mine is. Do you supply new, refurbed, or second hand units, and what is your price? Thanks. James.

I have done the same thing before as an emergency patch to get home. Parked in freo and when I went back to the car saw a puddle of coolant under the front. Turns out the small coolant line that runs around the front of the head to feed the turbos on my 26 sprang a pinhole leak and decided to start purging. Only about 15 mins to home and had to stop twice to top up. Servo parts should get you by though, hidden away in the back corner they usually keep a stock of bits..

Find your way to an auto store, repco auto1 whatever.. get a stanley blade a screwdriver and a short length of heater hose the right size. Bang it on and hey.. my god you managed to fix your own car.. If you can afford to put fuel in, you can afford to fix it. Electrical tape isn't made to hold pressure, a bit of warmth behind it makes it even worse. james.

w4_door_harness.pdf

..or get the other ones and play guinea pig for the rest of us..

au$616 delivered at the moment listed at the moment, the dollar was a lot better a short while ago. Still not too bad..

No collars in a 26 champ.

You will have to remove the instrument cluster and check that the cable is still turning with road speed and that the speedo drive adapter is still located on the end off the cable (a small square plastic pin). R32's were the last to have a cable driven speedo, archaic design and know to be an issue. A new cable from nissan is ~$100 so not unrealistic. james.

I have an intermittant contact with the little side-ish bulb in my front right indicator housing, when it loses contact it goes into a fast flicker.. Easy as to check, one screw and its in your hand.

The return line is low pressure, just dumps back into the tank. The fuel reg is at the end of your rail, not the start of the rail, think of it as holding the pressure up in the line before it. Like holding your finger over the end of a garden hose to hold the pressure at a set level in the hose.. james.

http://www.powerplayimports.com/index.php?...t&cat_id=50 powerplay imports, east bear plakky front bar. yummy. or chose cheap and ..n.. like i did. carmate.

According to the service manual, at idle (after warm up) 0v, at 2500rpm during middle load 4v. This is for 104. Active high i take it to mean. james.

if its mechanical, it can break...

Here is my copy bar, the mouth lines up with the n1 cutout imprints, and the same point on the headlight as your genuine one. Pity that the gtr original bar without bottom lip that was on the car when i bought it was absolutely trashed and un-rescuable.

Probably wouldn't use a broken fuse, the fuse is needed for a reason, if you do you should put another in the start of the wiring to protect the harness. The fuse isn't made to protect the device it is supplying, but to protect the wiring going to the device. The fuse pops becauses of a fault, you don't want a short to chassis earth smoking up your car just because you couldn't be stuffed putting a fuse in there.. (my rant over.) Only one fault with switching the line with the underbonnet fuse is that the attessa goes into fault mode when it can't trigger the motor. This requires a reset (drop of power) to the attessa module to get it running ok again. I've been lazy and haven't bothered but a momentary switch in the cab fuse circuit will drop the attessa power and reset it without having to turn the car off, just being at standstill. james.

It might not be a 'real' gtr, but I like the fact that I can park it somewhere and not have to sit there watching it all the time, afraid of it getting pinched, keyed, etc. No-one cares about a bunky. It would be interesting to get a gtr and gts4 on a weighbridge, for a start I have seen wildly varying reports on r32 gtr weights across the production run, the motor in the gts4 might be lighter, but the gtr has aluminium fenders and bonnet.. could be even closer than that. I probably woudln't have bought a stock gts4, was looking at rb25 r32 gtst's. This one popped up cheap, but looked like my avatar. Spent the first two months of ownership in the panel shop getting rebuilt. Although it did come with gtr brakes, suspension, drivetrain. Gts4 diff ratios. Lots of fun. Stock motor stock turbos with 221rwkw.. so far. james.

32 gtr and gts4 can have rwd only and abs active, pulling the fuse in the engine bay kills power to the attessa motor. Pulling the fuse in the drivers cab kills power to the attessa module, which is also the abs module, so both go.. 33 and 34 gtr, gts4, stagea, all have an attessa system that has a small amount of hydraulic preload on the transfer case clutch packs, so you have a small percentage of torque to the front wheels at all times. This combined with the faster sample rate results in a faster response in torque transfer to the front wheels, compared to the r32 version. I quite like the nose heavy, tail happy attitude of my car in rwd.. reminds me of my old ute. only in the dry though, damn dangerous in the wet. 4wd in the wet is like rwd in the dry.. Sooo much of a difference.

Dynabrade random da sanders. good stuff.

You still need to have a signal coming in to bend. Where are you going to get you air flow reference from then? Why have a signal bender if you have a programmable ecu? Need afm for normal pfc. Not need one for d-jetro. If you search there is craploads of info on this topic. james.

Since you are getting it tuned tomorrow anyways, check the afr vs rpm graph and see if you are suffering lean out issues.. Your tuner will be able to advise you further. A gtr pump as djr81 and adam said would be fine for your application, as well as being the cheapest option, just another old pump though. Walbro would be fine for it as well, as long as it is a genuine. A bosch 040 would be good, but require more work to fit, as well as costing more. Test and see what voltage your pump is recieving as well.. My car runs a gtr pump, but on the dyno was showing lean out bad with 220rwkw. Measured the voltage and it was ~10.2 and dropping under load. Wired in a direct feed to a relay switching from the original pump feed. Now sits over 13 volts. Its a lot of difference to how much a pump supplies. james.

ron: he isn't adjusting his cam timing, only his ignition timing. don't confuse him. flash89: a timing light and small socket to loosen off and adjust the cas. maybe an allen key to rip off the coil cover so that you can get at the no1 coil. Depending on the timing light you are using you might have to get a plug lead off another car, and fit it between no1 coil and no1 spark plug to get a correct pickup. Thats all you will need. On a motor warmed to operating temp, an rb20det should be set to 15deg. Thats looking at the timing marks behind the crank pulley viewed from the top. Same idea as setting the timing on an old carby car so get someone who would know about those to help you. The only funky thing is the probable need for the coil lead as with the timing light pickup signal, using the provided loop of wire near the ignitor on my motor produces a reading of about 40 deg, instead of 20deg due to how the ignition system operates and how the timing light operates. hope that helps. james.

You may have a voltage droop, the hicas is very sensitive to low volts. Check what you are getting at the unit itself, and with the electrical system loaded. You may need to provide a better earth and a clean of connections. james. ps, do the diagnostics as well. It will tell you the logged faults.

The attessa controller should be under the parcel shelf in the boot, left hand side, right hand side is hicas and power steering module. Left hand (passenger) kick panel is the engine ecu module, Right hand side (drivers) kick panel is the automatic control module. (if it was previously an auto..) james.

..thats not nice champ, not nice at all.