heller44

The clips are formed into the headlight housing. I have seen aftermarket clips advertised, but am unable to find them quickly for you... luckily i have gtr lights already.. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/R32-Nissan-Skyline-...1QQcmdZViewItem here's some better pics of the back of the clip assembly.

That hpi atricle was a crock. The stock cat was on the aftermarket system as well.

The voltage reduction isn't an issue, thats easy to understand, more that I was just wondering what the 'air regulator' that is on the load side of the fuel pump relay actually did.

Looking at this diagram, after the fuel pump relay there is something labelled an 'air regulator'.. what is it? Also the wiring colours that cerbera quoted in the first page are totally diferent to what I seem to have. I went through the hassle of pulling the pump to double check as what I was measuring didn't correlate at all. My pump is White/purple for +, Blue/red -, and yellow and yellow/blue for the gauge set. Anyone have similar? james.

The earth is an issue, as with the factory wiring the earth is held higher than chassis to reduce the voltage at the pump. Wiring in an earth direct is how you can get full supply voltage at the pump at all times, minus the volt drop in the original wiring loom.

Mine was performed at Intune..

I bought an apexi boost gauge from there. Seemed alright. james. ps in same boat. dyno on last friday. 296rwhp, just getting down to ~12.8:1.. gtr pump even..

3.5 ohm is a real bad reading for leads.. I'd be looking for another set of leads, then another meter definately. An example of the resistance for a short length of copper, 25 AWG wire (0.163mm2) has a median resistance of 32.37 ohms per 1000ft. 1ft resistance is 32.37mohms, 1cm is 1.062mohms. Pretty much near on squat. Copper tracks are a bit harder to work out because different manufacturers use differing thickness copper layers. But you get the idea. Best bet will be just to work through the circuit, since you have the luxury of having a small board (not very complex) and the schematic for it. Even with a cheapie you should be fine. A judicious use of the ohms reading and the diode test fuction and you should be fine. The min/max function picks the minimum maximum and usually average level measured whilst the min/max funcion is enabled, one issue is with most meters the scan rate is slow and very quick transients can be missed but for auto stuff it shouldn't be an issue, if it is then a scopemeter will need to be used. The hold fuction only holds the value that is on the screen at that time, so you need to be able to watch it and hope that it doesn't go higher, or lower if that is what you want, after you hit the button. If that is a 125 fluke that would be good for auto stuff. no idea what a 225 is.. Hope that helps anyone. (I think i was bored.. ) james. edit for screwed up my maths. damint.

You'd be looking at something like a low ohm meter, or microhmeter for that sort of measurement. Most of those insert a current through the part to be measured and reads the volt drop across that part, not really the thing for finding shorts on boards. A fluke 87v or 189 has a relative function, to zero out the lead resistance. I've been testing multitapped transformer windings with an 87v recently, resistance between these winding sets was in the range of .1 ohm difference to the next tap. Seemed accurate and repeatable. Another way to chase shorts in circuit boards is to inject a frequency into the track, then use something very similar to an inductive pickup (hall effect maybe) to chase the path and follow the signal. I've only seen one used once and have no idea what it was called, so can't help there. ps. That consult cable works great. Pity that I have a pfc turning up and probably will be selling it soon. Ecutalk is bloody brilliant as well. james.

That looks alright. They sell an optional software and rs232 logging kit to go with it as well... catIV 600v rated.

Have you tried removing the coil cover and watching at idle in the dark? I saw blue arcing around the base of a couple of coils.. before I re-varnished them.. The contact in the base of the coil.. where it touches the head of the spark plug.. make sure that is a good clean contact.. And definately with ^ about the earthing.. a bad place is the earthing to the ignitor pack as well. james.

^ unfortuately none of those have min/max reporting. If he didn't need min/max or duty cycle, even a $20 arlec meter would do the trick..

... or, it could be that the rear shocks are stuffed and the thing wallows about like a pregnant hippo.. like mine has the misfortune to do at the moment.

Altronics sell protek meters, call and ask if they can get it in for you.. or email the manufacturer.. www.mouser.com sell protek equipment, 6800 for us$194.. the company is good to deal with, delivery is expensive though.. fedex is the cheapest option to here from them. I use them for real weirdo connectors that I can't get anywhere else. Other than that I wouldn't have a clue.. The duty cycle measurement and min/max measurement in the one unit sort of pushes you into at least the middle of the price bracket.

http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=Q1088 ..as another option.

bump stops are on the shaft of the shock. inside the coil.

Be careful which one you get, if you ever need to measure anything other than low voltage. The safety rating (cat) of the unit might not be up to the task.. Have fun. james. my next meter will be a nice 189... roll on tax cheque.

I personally use a fluke 175, reasonably priced, no duty cycle though. For those sorts of situations I use a scopemeter, but that about $3k. Fluke 87v would be about my pick if I had to buy another general purpose meter. For current, 20 probably won't find, most max at 10A. Clampmeters are so much nicer for that sort of thing. But yet, another cost on top. My supervisor recently bought an 87v from ebay, new for ~$380 del. We were almost surprised that it arrived. james. (currently working in an industrial electronics and instrumentation repair workshop)

Or are you using lowered springs with stock shocks? That'll do it as well.. james.

Why do you want rx7 injectors? Is you motor going to require 550cc's? RB26dett (gtr) injectors are drop in, with the resistor pack, and are 440cc's. A lot easier to get ahold of as well.

Mid way between the prices of those two is the haltec e11v2. Which is what I probably would have gone for if I hadn't bought your pfc.

Comes with a bracket, but I reused the one from the junker as I had mounted it nicely and it was the same size, just didn't have the little apexi logo on the base. The option is where the one I had previously was from..

ah.k missed the "ok, i think its push type, just to make sure" part at least you got the correct idea after all that.

That would be right.. strange that you say you have a pull clutch in a 90 gtr.. will be interesting to see what gearbox and clutch you have now, when you pull it out. Do you have the ability to remove the gearbox, inspect the clutch, and then order the new parts? That way you would be sure of what you needed. Nothing worse than ordering the wrong parts. james.

I'll bite. PM sent.