heller44

I have r33 gtst seats in my r32. Bolt in sweet. The base where the rails attach on your seat there is bent to buggery. My seats were out of a car that went sideways into a non-moving object, so had to repair the base on the passengers. Fairly easy to strip down and repair. Hopefully the back isn't bent as well otherwise you'll have a fun time trying to get it all straight again, and because it has already been bent and restraightened, the metal will be weaker.. James.

The problem most often stated is uneven distribution of air to the cylinders. Good luck with the trial.

No relays. Direct feed to / from switch. Contacts can arc, the springs under the contact can sag, and the plastic nubbins inside can wear down. Easiest way to fix is to rewire both outgoing to one line and use that to feed relays for both headlights. Switch will last longer and headlights will be brighter. I had success with mine by striping the switch apart, stretching the spring a bit and clean and replace. Relays are on the cards though. James.

It is related. Where the cable goes into the rear of the speedo module, there is a pickup for ground speed. No cable rotate : No ground speed signal sent to control modules. The ~10 mins is the failsafe timeout. James.

Are there any diagnostics you can do on the e11v2 that would help you out? Give a quick hit on what to look for.

+1 here as well champ. Nice and neat. James.

According to all parts lists I have seen, gtr and gts4 castor rods are the same, gtst are different. Gtr and gts4 castor rods have a slight kink in them.

Do you know what clutch it is yet? Also might be interested in the trust pipes, just fom end of dumps to cat same style as hks pipes right?

Sounds like a plan. The IRF530 would be better than the 520, lower Rds(on) so less heat on the mosfet itself. Only prob is most people wouldn't be able to get one easily, dse stock irf 520, but not 530. For that you need rs or farnell or equiv. F/V input.. reading in a frequency input and being able to work on that directly, otherwise you need to use a dedicated F/V circuit to convert it into an analogue voltage range for the pic to use. The other way to do it it use the pulse counting input on the pic and count how many pulses per amount of clocks, generate your own digital frequency number from that information and use that to affect the PWM wave output. Have fun. James.

What you want is a microcontroller that has an F/V front input, then an PWM output driving the mosfet. Dead easy. Pity that i never learnt how to program PIC's or Micro's. What micro were you looking at running?

Probably an IRF520. Cheap and you can even get them at dse. 8A rated.

Manual says solenoid is 4-6Ω so thats what 2-3 amps approx. wire is fairly small so it won't be much more..

H'ok, it has taken me a while to get back to this, but I have finally got some pictures for you folks. First one is at 0 km/h, second one is at ~40 km/h. You can see the decrease in duty cycle as the speed increases. The waveform isn't a nice clean square as the diagnostics pickup is across the solenoid and the coil is acting on the square wave to bugger it up, but the area under the curve is what is the most important, cos thats where the average power is calulated from. 0kmph 40kmph You can also see in the pictures that the frequency of the waveform hasn't changed, still 123Hz. James.

Go to http://www.haltech.com.au Have a look ath the interceptor manuals that they have available. It shows that it doesn't drive the injectors per se.. just bends the information going to the stock ecu to allow the ecu to run the injectors at a modified rate. Lots of good information there.. James. (currently investigating an e11v2)

Another quick check for coil casing issues is to remove your coil cover, go for a drive when it is dark to warm everything up, then pop the bonnet and look around the base of the coils whilst the engine is running and everything is dark. Even at idle I could see blue arcs around 4 of my coils. If nothing then follow gillies2001 advice and try a replacement ignitor pack. Just something to try. James. ps. also make sure you have a good earth to the ignitor pack. The original earth can get a bit dodgy and play up.

kermit, Coming up soonish I am looking at replacing the stock dumps, front pipe and cat. Currently have an HKS drager catback only. Do you do dumps and front pipes? If you do could you give me an estimation on price. Thanks for your time. James.

The tyre size issue that i had was with 235/45/17's both ends, but new ones different brand on the front. Same as you seem to have. Just swap them front to back and see if there is a change.. easy. The difference old to new and different brand was enough to make mine go nuts. Attessa codes are read from the module in the boot. There is an indicator led on the housing that you read codes off simillar to an engine ecu. I have attached the ets diagnostics sheet, maybe that will help. James. ets_diagnostics_extract.pdf

Same as blind_elk here champ. When I had smaller dia tyres on the rear it was a pulsing torque reading and through the pants feeling.. not just a constant reading. Any error codes on your attessa ecu? James.

Last I hear they were $110 from nissan. Probably the cheapest GTR part in the catalogue. I basically did the same as arbess, but put a dab of devcon metal epoxy on the end bit where the cable end sits into the plastic sleeve, as an extra precaution. After fixing the sleeve, it just clipped back on the end of the cable anyway. James.

Just waiting for the first coffee of the morning to kick in,.. i really do like haveing weekends off. The injector input used for the IEBC is a duty cycle, thats how the IEBC calulates the load that the engine is under. ie duty cycle in, modified duty cycle out to boost solenoid. The DPA is basically the same under the skin. We can't use anything other than a speed referenced input, and the only one available is the speedo feed to both the ecu and power steering module. This signal is a frequency ramp, with a constant duty cycle, therefore the IEBC and DPA won't have a varying signal, it will just sit there. The duty cycle of the speedo output will be the same at 10kmph as it is at 100kmph. The time off and on ratio of the signal won't change, the time will but from my understanding of how the units operate the duty cycle ratio is what it is concerned about. I think I need another coffee. James.

Lay on the ground drivers side, look along the body of the gearbox, it'll jump out at you. You can repair the end, strap and glue the hard sheath and replace it back onto the cable if you want a repair, not a replace. Need a step by step for the repair just ask, mine snapped the other week and a successful repair still holding. James.

Attessa is identical, need gtr box, clutch and clutch bits, pedal set, interior crud, and a fair few wiring changes. I'm unsure if there is a difference between the rom in the ecu for manual and auto, but it wouldn't be out of the question.

Third confirmation here.. not that it was needed. Get new resistors champ. As stated before, 6R8.

i'm just wondering how you get a blow off valve vented to exhaust system....

Mount points are the same 32 and 33, seatbelt clasp sizes may be different, depending on the seatbelts fitted. But its an easy task to swap buckes over. Got 33 gtst seats in mine.