heller44

And don't use the malpassi... No need to use a rising rate reg, unless you are trying to get out of either retuning or replacing undersize injectors.. bastard of a way of doing it though.

May be a voltage droop when the attessa pump primes, making the hicas module freak a little. Good battery?

If anyone ever gets their hands on the r33 wiring diagrams, I would really like to have a look.

I couldn't remember as it was a while ago, but looking at the pics it is easy.. closed open and then lift the rod out of the groove.

Another option, the subframe might be bent... mine is.. I had one front wheel about 25mm further back than the one on the other side..

A serious question.. why did you go for the rb instead of a 2jz?

The cat temp sensor indicator is just thermal switch in the cat housing, hooked up to an idiot light on the dash.. doesn't affect the operation of the engine at all. So, if operation is being affected, it would be good to assume that the cat is overheating, ie blocked..

PM-R33 is spot on. Confirmed.

r32 and r33 gtr turbos are plain bearing.. r34 got roller bearing cartridges.. but all of them, other than the n1 versions, were all ceramic hot side.. all the vspec are ceramic as well.. only n1 turbs are steel wheel.

wait.. what? You mean that the rear wheels still move? Unless it was a tomei lock kit, all the others don't affect the electronics, so if there is a fault in the hicas system, it will still be there with a lock bar. More related to your problem, check your afm connections, had the same symptoms on mine at one point.

searle's fasteners.. for all the weird bits and bobs you ever want. Searle Fastener Sales Co 113 High Rd, Willetton, WA, 6155 Phone:phone (08) 9457 5444

Thats why I had no idea what you were on about. I still have all the crap installed, but before I fixed it the steering rack solenoid was disconnected, same as removing the hicas module. The electrical signal going to the power steering modulation solenoid, the one on the steering rack, comes from the hicas module, without the module, you get no signal, so you get no solenoid actuation, which means you have permanently heavy steering.. Which you obviously like, but I don't.. Each to their own. Unless you have another way of powering the solenoid or swapping in a non assisted rack.

I have a 33 transfer case on the back of a 32 box.. no difference to me compared to the 32 transfer case.

Setup? only things that will really make a difference are tyres and weight.. 235/40/17's and all the 4wd malarkey.

Your choice, but I actually like having power steering. I had the same power assistance as what you have now when mine wasn't working, found it crap. my opinion.

If you have a choice, get one with the brake master cyl stopper built in.. other than that it is only cosmetic.

dave, the hicas ecu provides the variable assist for the power steering as well, you don't really want to throw it out in a skyline..

Just a thought, see if there is a residual hydraulic pressure with the 33 module and then with the 32 module.. You don't really want to be throwing it in, thinking it works, but still having some preload if it is the hydraulic pack above the diff that is the difference. *edit - thought you were using the 33 pump. Also do you know if there are any pinout changes from 32 to 33 modules? Might not be a straight swap.. only thoughts of what if.. I would like a faster reacting attessa myself.

There is only one.. as far as I know.. there was weird offset ground one off thing, but no production kits. Look in forced induction - rb30 conversions subforum

Pfft, I'd like to see how they fit the transfer case under the gtt floorpan.. Only so much shifting you can do with a big hammer.. ^ as well as the chassis rails.. obviously.

Thats because it hasn't even been sold yet. The business owner is planning to drop one in his own car as a test bunny.

Mine was already done before I bought the car.. looks like an angle grinder job, and they didn't even rust proof it..

I hooked the hose on the fittin, opened it up a bit and then pumped the pedal until I could see the fluid clear with no bubbles.. went and closed it off, went to the next fitting and rinse and repeat.

I am running gtr brakes in my bunky, so carrying a weight penalty over and above what a gtr has even (all steel front panels).. Recently rebuilt the whole lot with new discs, good pads, rebuilt m/c and good fluid. Stops awesome. MrKotter, you don't need a vacuum pump, I did the whole lot with one of those one man bleeder kits, ie, tube in a little bottle.

bubba, I am now running a 33gtr transfer case on a 32gtr box. The rest of the system can't help you with though.