heller44

Same. Only when you lift a genuine gtr bonnet do you realise how much difference there is.

ABS and hicas both require a speed signal, see if your ecu is receiving one. Might need to get the old sender mech and swap it into the new cluster.

Even though the op has probably found some tyres already.. I am running 595RS federals on my car, getting the same 60' and trap as with the hard as buggery, excessively cheap and nasty tyres that I originally had on there. They are nowhere near a semi slick either, treadwear is a lot harder, meant to start slipping on the track a lot earlier as well. I like them on the street though, stiff sidewall makes it feel a lot more nimble. If you have a rwd car with decent hp, you can't go past having the proper drag radials, if you want to anywhere on the strip. One set of tyres can't do all tasks. just thought I'd post my own personal experiences with these 595's.. hope it helps anyone. if not, well..

Consult cable, along with a laptop or computer close by with some software to talk to the ecu can let you read the fault codes, if there are any, and check to see what sensors are doing what. Won't give you some thing like, tighten this bolt 'ere then eh.. but should let you see if the airflow meters are ok and responding, rather than just swapping every part of the car until you happen to touch something that is the actual cause of the problem.. I meant to check the earthing on the motor yourself, as that was the cause of this other car not starting. I might be convinced to drag the cable and laptop around, considering you live about 2 suburbs away it shouldn't be that much trouble, but am a little busy at the moment.

I have a consult cable that can be used to interogate the ecu.. I have noticed that skyline injector pulses are very weak, the 33 I had a look at recently wasn't happy in the same way, turned out to be an earthing propblem, same thing, been left for ages not used, went to start it and it wouldn't go.

Before you just go changing out everything.. Do you have the original ecu in there? Checked fault codes, or hooked consult up to it to see if it was happy?

If you need a diagram for how to do that... might I be really nice and suggest you get someone else to help you? I wouldn't want to be responsible for you having your car burn to the ground.

I used a 40A gp relay, just used the original solenoid signal wire to feed it, and used a fused supply from the battery straight to the relay, then to the solenoid where the wire originally came off. Provides a shorter run of wire and I used a heavier gauge, so there was more juice available to throw the solenoid. Hope that made sense, bit tired..

Just had to deal with my brother's car this last weekend for the same thing. Measured 12.6v with everything off, measured ~4v when trying to pull in the solenoid.. Measuring the resting voltage of a stuffed battery won't get you anywhere. Measure what it drops to when going to start. Psi, normally all the dash indicators and other crap stays on if the starter solenoid isn't pulling in. Adding a pilot relay is still a good idea though, one of the first things I did to my car.

If you have power going to both the motor and the electronics module, with the fault light up, pop the boot open and read off the fault code.. Left hand side module under the parcel shelf, led in a little seethrough circle..

Sure.. Look in the forced induction section, rb26 sticky, go nuts..

On the other side of the coin, I wouldn't even look at buying a 32 gtr if it didn't already have a rebuilt engine.. You know it will have to happen sooner rather than later so make sure that the previous owner already forked out for it rather than you..

Engine overheat fan. Can be modified to come on when the ac does, but doesn't stock.

I used the little plastic bottle one man jobbie.. Had to replace master cyl so had to bleed the whole system. Worked fine, as easy as using a second person but actually did what I wanted..

No idea about 33's, but on a 32 the electric fan out the front is an engine exessive temp fan, can't remember when it comes on. You can bridge it to come on with the aircon, but you have to make wiring modifications for that to happen. The last hot day I was out in mine, I was hitting about the same water temps as Brockas, everything in mine is stock though..

Why add another relay in there, just shunt the signal over to the relay already fitted.. one diode..

Yes it is possible.. here is a diy for '32.. I don't know about the wiring on a '33 but theory should be the same. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...html&hl=fan

Ground it at a minimum.. measure the voltage you are getting at the pump afterward and decide if you need a larger feed, I did.. but considering you have a 33, you don't have the wiring run from front of the car to the back so you might be ok.

No, it has only one solenoid that varies the pressure assist for what road speed the car is doing, in an almost linear relationship, slow lots of assist, fast less assist.. You have speedo, you have the fault light working, so have a look in the diy and tute section for the hicas dagnostic, not really a lot of help that can be given until you do that..

Hicas lockout won't fix the power steering. Have a look for the hicas diagnostic, and see what it throws back in the way of error codes.

My question refers to the information I have quoted above. I have purchased a secondhand set of tomei 'b's for my 26. Correct boxes, looks the same as any photos, but absolutely no manufacturer markings or part numbers on the cams thamselves, other than u6 on the intake and u5 on the exhaust. Not really trusting myself with measurement off the callipers I have here, but definitely more lift than stock. Does the 'u' number actually have any relevance?

To change the oil pump is a remove motor from car job, all because you have to remove the sump. There are a lot of other issues with a stock rb26 that you would fix if the motor is out, not just pull it for one thing. Personally I would be going for a full rebuild with forgies if I was doing it. Just make sure it is serviced regularly, good parts, and save the money until it goes bang or you want to go further.

If you look at the connector, there is like a latch that holds the row of contacts in the housing.. unclip it and you can remove the pin and transfer the location. I'm going from memory here as it was a couple of years ago.. obvious when you have good look at it. What is the original location for on the other dash? make sure that you aren't going to short anything out..

Look on the back of each cluster.. You should see a marking near one of the connector holes with TAM written.. On the old one I reckon it is on the left side connector (if you are looking at the circuit board) 3rd pin from the top on the rhs.. On the new one it may be middle connector 4th pin from the top lhs. Just chase the pin back and make sure it is in the right place. This is only what I had to do on my car.. gtst may be different. This was the case with my '89 gts4 cluster replaced with a later gtr cluster. There were also a number of other things wrong as well, check all the idiot lights are working, indicator lights are correct, hicas still works etc.. I had to change quite a few pins over.

Its called an air chamber.. as mrkotter said, the aac valve is mounted on the side of it. Only time I have heard of it being removed is if the aac has also been removed.