Baz

9 inch wide rim with a suitable offset should be fine to fit a 255 tyre if your looking for max grip

Hahaha

Your best bet is to find a replacement second hand. They are pretty expensive parts to buy even if they are non-gen. I'm sure there are plenty of TPS floating around from wrecked RB20 motors

I really don't think it looks that bad. You need to remember this is a car built for fuel economy, safety and being aimed at the low cost small car market. Compared to other cars in the market it will be competitive against such as the Echo, Getz, Fiesta etc i think it outclasses them in terms of looks. Although I don't particularly agree with the fact that in order to buy one, you need to already own an aston martin. I think thats a bad move

There is a big reservoir attached to the firewall on the drivers side. You can remove that, it isn't necessary for going fast or doing skids. No but seriously if you want to do it properly it is going to cost big dollars. (ie. chroming everything you see, rewiring the engine bay so all the wires disappear, painting various things). Just enjoy your car and put some money towards some basic mods like a good stereo, exhaust, some nice rims and whatever else you would like to do.

I think everyone is mostly missing the point here. You did a skid and confessed to it so you deserve to lose your license. Going on what have seen with my mates that have been convicted under the hoon laws, you will lose your license for 6-9 months and recieve some stupidly large fine (somewhere between $700-1000), which is the going rate atm.

Not that I've done the conversion but the wiring loom will be slightly different to cater for the sensors related to boost pressure. I know for one there is a boost pressure sensor mounted near the firewall that I doubt would be present on the non-turbo wiring loom. There are probably a few extra sensors that are present on the turbo loom as opposed to the non-turbo loom.

If people want I'll take a photo of the diff in the back of my R34 GT-T and I'll upload it tomorrow arvo. That way it will give you something to go by.

Well being an R34 N/A I dont think you will have trouble getting power to the ground. Invest in a good set of tyres and you should be fine. No need to go all balls out on mods you don't require

All RB20/25/26 CA18 and SR20 motors have the turbos mounted on the right hand side of the engine (looking from the front of the vehicle) or passenger side if you could so call it. So unless you have a toyota motor sitting in there, all inline nissan import motors have the turbo sitting on the right hand side.

I think you will have to consider biting the bullet and considering buying one from Nissan man. You will be very hard pressed to get any R34 GTR aero parts second hand.

Well the turbo is mounted on the right hand side of the engine bay. So to keep wires to a minimum in the engine bay and to avoid running the wires across the firewall or across the front of the motor follow the wires into the passenger side footwell and run the wires across the back to where you wish to mount the EBC. Don't drill a hole in the firewall, looks awful and its just downright lazy.

GAB suspension is aftermarket. I had similar suspension on my R32 GTS-T. The knob on the rear struts and the twist knob on the top of the fronts adjust the dampening of the shocks. Adjusting it will have no impact on how "hard" the car will feel, it simply adjusts the rate at which the dampers control the oscillating spring. It does that by restricting the flow rate of the oil from reservoir to reservoir as the strut moves up and down. Essentially it restricts the rate at which the spring can move over a certain distance. You can lower the car further by backing off the "C" nut on the struts but often it will sometimes actually taken preload off the spring (meaning that the spring will flop around when the car is jacked up. So most only height adjustable suspension have "helper springs" in them so that you can further lower the car without the spring becoming loose. Although I've found its not really a problem if the spring is loose in the strut anyway. It takes up the preload of the spring once the car is on the ground again. Hope that helps

A lot of gear. This is the list off the top of my head. Gearbox - ~$1500 Clutch master cylinder Clutch slave cylinder Clutch Manual tailshaft or custom built tailshaft Manual pedal box Manual surround trim Manual ECU Clutch hoses Gearbox support bracket Gearbox fluid. So I'm guessing you would be looking at anywhere between 2-3k in parts plus labour Could be a lot more. So yeah really pricey and probably not a smart idea IMO Best off selling and buying one which is already a manual

There is one point that everyone is forgetting. The XR6 turbo produces a lot more torque than the R33 would at the same horsepower figures due to the fact it has a 1.5L advantage over the RB25. The dyno graphs of a 300kw Rb25 vs a XR6T 300kw would be very different. Horsepower figures don't mean jack if you haven't got the torque or the bottom end power to get it moving. Depending on grip available and choice of transmission the XR6T would almost always win hands down.

Hey guys, Had this little japanese hanger sitting in my car for years and I have had absolutely no idea what it says or means. Was wondering if any of you guys who can read japanese could translate it for me. Cheers

I suspect they would retain the transaxle gearbox and remove the drive to the front wheels.

Well I think this graph speaks for itself http://www.x-rates.com/d/JPY/AUD/graph120.html Since July 21 the value of the AUD dollar to the Yen has almost halved in value. Depressing sign to see that many of the parts coming out of Japan will almost be double in price to what it was about 3 months ago. Damn depressing to see but lets hope it picks up again as fast as it dropped so we can get decently priced parts out of Japan once again.

Well the RB25 heads will always be in high demand especially for those looking to do a 25/30 conversion so I would always expect the prices to be rather high whether it requires attention or not.

Well $1500 for the box initially and then obviously everything else that goes with it as well. Including: Master cylinder, slave cylinder, pedal box, manual ecu, clutch flywheel, tailshaft, speedo, plus anything else and all the labour involved as well. I wouldnt be surprised if it was worth that much. Did the quote include a brand new clutch as well? I would think anywhere between $3-3.5k would be a reasonable amount to charge.

They are actually superior cars to the R32's with a lot of people believing that they are alot heavier than the R32. This may be the case in standard form but stripped out there actually have similar weights (with an RB25 and RB25 box fitted to the R32) The R33's have there weight focused more towards the centre of the car as well, making them a more balanced car. The fuel tank is mounted in front of the rear axle and the rear strut mounting points for the R33 is further towards the front. The problem with them has been due to cost, with the R33 always being a lot more expensive than the R32. And a lot of people probably prefer the styling of the R32 as well. But yeah by all means the R33 is a superior car to the R32 unless someone can give me some good reasoning otherwise. And yes I do own an R32 and drift it as well but I would have a R33 drift car if I could afford it.

-value refers to manifold vacuum +value refers to boost pressure. Also remember that manifold vacuum will only ever be a positive value in turbocharged or supercharged cars (or in the exception of a ramming air suppy in some naturally aspirated cars travelling at a high speed) as the engine cannot created a positive pressure from the air that it is drawing in. Hope that helps, Cheers

B rego so that it can be driven to and from workshops (handy if you work at a workshop) and events. Or... Through as a personal import is the only way I know of so that it can be completely road legal (exempt from ADR's)

It doesn't sound like an intake or exhaust restriction to me. To me it sounds like something electronic related. Could be some sort of igntion issue, airflow meter (running outside of its resolution), faulty injector(s), faulty fuel pump or an ecu. I've got my money on it being a fuel pump, pretty common, replaced a few fuel pumps in my time. If the turbo is holding boost, then i doubt its a turbo problem.

Initial compliance registration of the car is different to taking a car across for an inspection such as resulting from recieving a yellow sticker. Compliance rules says that the car needs to be stock as a rock in order to pass the pits. Which means you won't pass the pits if you have an aftermarket catback exhaust on it or any other similar light modifications such as different rims. Hell if you don't have the factory nissan pads in it, they can knock you back if they feel like it. Other side to that is that a lot of the pit guys don't really know the difference and sometimes won't pick you up. But if they understand raws compliance they can and will knock you back