Baz

I would probably consider the S14 200SX as a good option to consider at around that price. Lots of stock ones around and plenty of really nice ones as well.

HKS 2530..... Is a good upgrade

The amount of GTR skylines I see moving around Perth with P plates on it just makes me shudder..... Always shooting up besides me and trying to race me and I'll be like "F**k off seriously "

Faaaaaaaaaarrkkk.... For that price get him to buy me one as well

I wouldn't be too concerned about blowing a bit of white smoke at start up, sure if it was a substantial amount of smoke then maybe I would be thinking a head gasket issue but otherwise as long as its not blowing smoke all the time then I would not worry. Buy a TKO tester if need be to check to see if there is a head gasket issue. Enjoy your new skyline

Well a turbo is just a device that spins around off exhaust gases and compresses air. The point I'm arguing is that people generally believe that putting a wider tyre on means they will always get better traction. Which I think is pointless considering that a cheapish 16" tyre can maintain better traction than a wider 18" tyre in most cases.

* Edit.. I meant Simex's Sava's are crap. I know cause I give them out on a day to day basis.

This is one thing I have always notice people overlook when choosing a tyre that is right for the job. People always have the generalisation that if you cannot maintain traction with a set of 205's, buy some 235's and you will get better traction. While this is mostly true most of the time the case in that more contact patch means more traction the tyre compound is often overlooked. If you have ever felt what some drag slicks or semi-slicks feel like they are always a very very soft compound. This means that being a softer compound allows them to stick much better to the surface rather than spin. Also why people run a lower tyre pressure is due to the fact of trying to make the tyre much softer. Now one of my mates run's 225/50R16 Simex's on his car. Simex's are one of the more cheaper brands of tyres but run a very soft compound. While this is a good property to have there needs to be a compromise between straight line traction, cornering and wear. Obviously with a harder compound sidewall flex would be minimised and tyre wear would be extended. I am running 245's on my car at the moment and these tyres grip less than what my 205 maxis's do in a straight line mainly due to there rock hard compound. That said when you go looking for overcoming traction problems don't get sucked into thinking the fact that buying 245/35R18's will benifit you with straight line peformance when a set of correctly selected 225/50R16's can be up to the task most of the time. My 2 cents

Don't mean to hijact thread by just a quick question. Adjustable castor bushes are a cheaper alternative to the replacement adjustable lower control arms. Do these direct replacement's offer much more adjustability than the bushes I am guessing? Is it worth spending the extra buck for one?

I don't see why you can't press the ball joint out if the ball joint is sold seperately. Even still there not overly expensive to replace the whole component if that is not the case.

There's nothing wrong with the hybrid copy intercooler. Pick one of those up for approximately $170 delivered to your door step and then take your selection at a piping kit which would cost you a further $350 or so. Either that or look on Ebay for some of the packages they offer

A front mount intercooler would be a worthy upgrade, 0.9 bar is about the efficient sort of boost a R33 with a standard turbo should run, consider some sort of engine management, possibly a piggy back computer (ie. SAFC-II) or a complete stand alone (ie. PowerFC, Microtec etc.) to margine for more power if your aiming for in the future. 350bhp @ the wheels is probably a desirable figure and sensible figure to target for one stock internals on lower boost otherwise expect costly engine rebuilds in the near future. Btw I have never heard of an RB25 powered car that could make 300bhp on a stock turbo and especially impossible if a FMIC is not present. Unless your running something stupid like NOS or methanol injection My 2 cents

R32 GTR's are becoming as common as my mum's camry these days and more than 50% of all GTR's come in gun metal grey. Thanks,

Especially with a standard bottom end, it's just far too much stress on the stock components which arent up to the task.

Use genuine nissan ones. You can't go wrong with one.. I really don't think there would be a significant difference between the two just the inflated cost of a JDM one

Generally if its not pulling then I wouldn't worry about a wheel alignment - however sometimes the wheels can be straight but and still be eatting your tyres. I say if your taking your car there to be worked on get everything done at once. Saved you having to take it back again. But if the wheels are pulling you could always do some DIY wheel aligning

Look for worn bushes in the rear that would be a first place to start looking. Whiteline bushes arent that expensive and replacing bushes makes a hell of a difference.

RB20's would work fine in one. R31's are lighter than R32's and look how many high powered R32's there are around running RB20's. Just consider the price difference between a 20 and 25 and that should decide you decision

4 pot calipers compared to 2 pot caliper front on non-type m's. Look for the massive nissan logo on the front calipers and that will tell you straight away.

Yeah make it for Hillarys so I can walk there and then walk home blind. hahaha

Haha now that is how you chop a bumper on a 180sx Nah.. mines installed with it on so ill just happily leave it on.

Yep looks exactly like my diff. And it is an R200

I've seen a couple of bumpers on occasions where the original area where the number plate sits gets cut out to get more air flow to the FMIC and the number plate side mounted. This could only be done if the front end support bar is removed or hacked away. I imagine leaving it off would not be the greatest idea because of the damage that could be sustained in a front end collision but it allows a FMIC to be fitted much more freely less weight in the front end and different bumpers can be fitted without exposing the front end support bar. Wonder if I should remove mine....

Anyone? Just that I've seen front bumpers on skylines which are too large to feasibly hold the front end support bar in its factory position and to keep it out of view.

Just curious, How many people remove there front end support bar when they install FMIC's or use different bumper's beyond factory? Or do people just cut them to suit the bumper or FMIC?