Baz

Correct me if I am wrong but aren't these the same as the chinese copy hybrid intercoolers? Also why the heck would they build the intercoolers in the same factory as the "genuine" hybrid intercooler and not badge them with the hybrid logo?

Hey all, Just had my RB20 dynoed today and this is the results I got with just a 3" cat back exhaust with 3" pipe in place of cat convertor, factory boost and airpod. Does that power output sound about right? Because I have a mate who has an R32 and has a full 3" turbo back system with split dump, 12 pound boost and FMIC who put out 198hp and considering the mods he has it seems a bit weird that my car is very close to his hp figure considering the mods. I would consider myself someone who knows a bit about cars, but I don't know much about tuning for a good hp figure. Basically the sheet doesn't mean much to me but the highest hp figure I got. The A/F ratio to me seems like it is running a crap load rich but I'm wouldn't have a clue. Could anyone please explain to me what the sheet actually tells me rather than just the peak hp figure. Cheers

I'm rather pissed off at this situation. When I actually was considering buying the turbo I sat in front of the screen with the button pending at the bottom saying for me to confirm the transfer for the turbo. I knew I had a bad feeling about it. I'm still angry at this whole event occuring. I'm still pending my money being refunded and I will continue looking for an R33 turbo. On that topic anyone have a R33 turbo for sale? Send me a PM. Cheers.

Considering the supension and the vehicle rear track is the same on coupe and sedan models, I can't see why it would not fit.

Picts to [email protected]

After attempting to buy an R33 turbo that fell through, I am now looking for a replacement turbo for my RB20 motor. Considering all turbo's available for upgrade but I am not out to spend a crap load of money on a turbo. All offers will be considered. One other thing I will not direct deposit (main issue with why my other buy fell through) but will consider all other payment methods. I am also available to drive and go pick it up, if the seller is in WA. Send me your pm's. Cheers

I believe they bolt straight on but the dump pipe needs to be changed to suit the larger flange (correct me if im wrong)

Errr... warranty? What warranty would that be exactly? Im with for the window motor as well but not being able to see or hear what it does makes it hard to diagnose. Could be a number of things. Are there any scratch marks on the window at all?

My best bet is a blocked PCV valve. Are we taking any bids?

For the weathering damage to the cover. Sand it back to get it a rough finish and cover the entire wiper arm with a couple of layers of black engine enamel. As for the wiper blades the R32 ones at least are just the same as every other modern wiper blade. I used Ford ones which are easily attainable from almost every car parts retailer. Don't be stupid by going out and buying new wiper arms when you can refresh the old one and make it look new again.

Cover the seat belt in silicon grease. You can usually buy these in spray cans from supercheap. Once it is covered in it wipe it off and presto it should work better. May need to repeat a couple of times to get it right but it should eventually retract like new. Also something else to note, silicon grease is good for windows that are a bitch to retract, simply spray it in the slides and wind it up and down until it starts to get better.

13-15k is what i think you would be able to get for it. For the fact that it is an auto.

Depends what you are looking for in a car. Whether you want brute power and killing looks from a cheapish car, where you can spend the extra money turning into a real tough car go for the R32 GTS-T. Or go one step further and get the R32 GTR for a real race bred car. Series 1 R33's are probably a thing to stay away from. Go for a R33 S2 if you want a tidy car with a nice interior or go one step further if you want R34 which I believe beats the R33 in all aspects. Thats just my opinon. R32 GTS-T would be my thing to go for, however I'm exceptionally biased in my opinon. However you would be happy with one. If you were looking in the area of an R34 definately consider the GTR.

Electromagnetic clutches are not cheap

***EDITED***** SAU Forums do not condone breaking the law If you don't like taking risks there always the option of drag racing at kwinana which I believe has now been moved to Sunday racing

Has anyone had experience with rotaries on this forum? Sti motor in a brumby is another interesting build

Ok seems like the matter is being sorted out. I've been told that if the turbo doesnt arrive by next thursday he will refund the money. I would have really liked to have the turbo but we will have to wait and see

What would in your opinon be the cheapest way to build a 10 second car. The only rules are: - Cost of the 10 second car must substitute in the cost of the car and the mods. - No major weight reduction mods - No blown carburettored V8's In my opinon I believe the GSR Lancer would be the best candidate for building a 10 second car as its a relatively cheap car to buy, 4wd and has an abundance of aftermarket kits to build on it.

You should have it at 44 psi if you would like a large wear mark directly down the middle of your tyre due to the higher pressure. I would reccomend the same pressures SK described

What brand catchcan?

Haha I'm not surprised it has scared you with 249rwkw of power

No issue. Its just the satisfaction you earn from saving hard to buy the car of your dreams. Some people here may be jealous. There is no better feeling than achieving a goal. Having stuff thrown at you means nothing.

That is a seriously terrible looking car. I would rather buy an older subaru wrx than that one. I have always hated alfa's and that car seems to have adapted its looks.

With all this interest I imagine you could sell it for a buck or two