Baz

Errr.. in regards to #2 I think you should double check to see if it is up the right way. As DNB said, retarded ignition can cause the heating of the manifold

I agree with Roy if you have the money to spend. Seriously though save your money on the cost of a new set of set of calipers. The skyline ones really arent that bad because you'll be forking out big bucks for a different set of calipers. Just go with the DBA's roy suggested above. Why exactly are you replacing your discs?

Possibly but the dampening rate doesnt seem to change with the click adjustment. Maybe its just me though.

Maybe a faulty brake switch? That clicks when the switch is pushed in? Check around the brake pedal and push the pedal in with your hand with your ear close to see if you can hear any noticeable clicking noise. Doubt it would be air in the lines. Pads maybe but I would bet on that its something in the brake pedal itself.

Don't take the opinon of one tyre shop. Take it to another tyre shop and see if they diagnose it in the same condition as the previous tyre shop. One thing you should learn in the motor industry is not to take the opinon of one person or company. If you don't want to seem like an a$$hole even pay for the tyres to be inspected at another tyre shop if need be.

There should be a screw on the throttle plate that adjusts base idle. If you cant find it follow the throttle cable and it should lead to where the throttle plate is and there should a screw there as well.

Parts and labour would be close on 2k if you paid someone to do it.

Buy one one of those Naturally Aspirated blowoff valves. They consist of a speaker which sits in the engine bay and is hooked up to the clutch so when you change gears it makes a whooshing noise out of the speaker. I can't believe there is actually market competition for these things. Just beware if someone found out you had one hooked up you will probably get a quick knee in the nuts.

Side indicators fine as well?

Congradulations. That is a great achievement to have your own car featured in a car magazine, let alone one as big as high peformance imports. Well done.

No worries mate

Also take into account that springs and shocks will sag over time as well. This depends on the use of the car, conditions it is mostly used in, distance covered and age of the car.

Agreed. But different brands of rotors deteriorate at different rates. The only thing which sets different brands apart is its ability to disapate heat to keep overall heat on the disc down because in the end, heat is the only thing that is causing the warping and shuddering effect in the discs themselves.

The only thing you could do by yourself would to adjust the tie rods to centre the steering wheel if the steering wheel is offset in a straight line. However this would only be a temporary fix. Doing a wheel alignment by hand should not be attempted by the light hearted and it is definately not easy to do for someone inexperienced in doing it. As SK said it would take too long to explain it over a forum and that the only way to show you how to do it would be in person. Best off spending that $35 for a wheel alignment.

When I bought my car from Japan it came fitted with coilovers with "Aero" written on the side (anyone know what brand these are - Koni's I think?) On the front shocks where they connect to the mounting point inside the engine bay a thread protrudes through in the direct centre of the shock. On the top on this thread on 4 corners there are the numbers 1 through to four listed. A little white mark indicates what number it is on and it is adjustable with a flat head screwdriver. Anyone know what this does? I'm guessing that this maybe changes the dampening of the coilovers on the front because as far as I can see so far there is no adjustment on the front for dampening while a small knob on the base of the rear shocks adjusts the dampening for the rear. Cheers,

Is there such things as camber adjusters for the rears? From memory I can't recall how the R31 rear suspension is set up so I'm not sure.

I've been following this issue on my R32 for sometime now ever since I first got it. Basically the HICAS light comes on after I travel a certain distance. It has made me wonder because it doesn't come on after a certain period of time but a certain distance everytime after first travelling in my car. Leave it to rest for a while and it resets itself and the same thing will happen again. Also I have no clue about HICAS diagnostics either. One thing I have found though, is that my HICAS never actually seems to work. And I've never actually had the 4WS kick in on me before. But the thing is that I don't have a locker bar because all the lines still connect into the rear steering rack and there doesn't seem to be any tampering with the HICAS ecu at all. Is there any dodge way of eliminating the HICAS? Removing fuses? Cutting/crossing wires? Also people with the lock bars, does the HICAS light come on at all times or something similar to my case that after it travels a certain distance the light will come on? Cheers,

Make sure you shop around for the right type of rotor to get because there are so many overpriced brands around that just don't give you the bang for your buck that many other brands do. DBA's seem to be highly recommended and a few people on these forums seem to be using them. Question though. Why are you replacing your rotors in the first place?

I don't believe it is as simple as that. As I am led to believe (correct me if I am wrong) in the case of an ABS car, rather than just having the brake lines connecting straight from the braking master cylinder to the wheel calipers as they do on non-abs cars, they go directly from the brake master cylinder to the ABS unit where they can detect wheels locking up and apply even pressure (well a rapidly pulsating action) onto the brake fluid which then acts on the disc calipers to avoid the brakes locking up. I hope that makes sense. So in conclusion there is no easy way of just removing the ABS master cylinder as its connected directly inline with the braking system. ABS master cylinders normally begin leaking from people slamming on the brakes and using the ABS too often. If its not leaking terrible try and avoid using the ABS itself and it should hold out for the time being until you can afford to get it fixed. And yes there not cheap to replace, best bet is to try and source one off someone wrecking there GTR on the SAU for sale section. Cheers,

35psi??!! Damn that is some serious boost running on your stock turbo. Was it fun for the short term?

So I'm guessing by what your saying that it would be your first car? I wouldn't reccommend a turbo charged skyline as your first car if your getting your license cause you will more than likely smash it up anyway and cost yourself more money than its worth. Buy a banger for a year, learn to drive and spend the time looking for a decent R32 in a year time. Only reason is that I'm hearing too many stories these days of P plate drivers hoping into powerful cars and blowing all there money from one swift slide into a lighpole (or evening injuring themselves seriously or ending up dead). Now back to your first question. RB20's are solid motors and underestimated by many but have there limitations. Commit to a RB25/RB26 only if your planning on pumping tons of money into it. Best way to modify a RB20 IMO is to buy mods which would be compatible with a new motor if you decided to buy one especially considering a lot of parts on the RB20 are interchangable with the RB25. I still think RB26's are a bit heactic to be putting in RWD cars so better off saving the time and getting a GTR if thats the case.

Unfortunately it is not a very nice thing to happen but I am hopeful that it will be resolved in a civilised manner before tuesday. I will use the information as well in that link if it comes to that as well.

Unfortunately I have made the mistake like so many of us before of buying something from the for sale section via direct deposit and have been screwed over in the process. To cut a long story short. I had been searching around the forums for a long time in order to find a cheap R33 S1 turbo and found this turbo for sale in the private section http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=73127 and discussed it further with Fidel04 also know as Phil Mountford a regular user on boostcrusing.com ( http://fidel.boostcruising.com/ ). Basically the deal was a R33 turbo from a front cut with a free dump pipe for $275 including freight. Being a trusting person and thinking that everyone seemed decent in the import scene (a thought long diminished) deposited the money and was excited at the prospect of getting myself a new turbo for my R32. A couple of days later after sending several messages waiting for confirmation of the payment being put through I heard nothing back from him for about 5 days. Finally I recieved a message saying "yes the payment has been put through, turbo was sent last thursday and I'll give shipping details tomorrow." Today being a week later since last hearing from him I have suspected the worst and action may need to be taken. I am a reasonable sort of guy. I have given him the option on countless amounts of time that I dont mind if he admits he hasnt sent (or never had) the turbo, deposit the amount back into my account and leave it at that. Unfortunately he has refused my offer blinded by his arrogance thinking that he can get away with it easily. Basically the information I have of his is: -His full name -Address -Mobile number -and account details -a picture of himself, what his car looks like and his rego This information is more than enough to take him down with relative ease. What I am asking is that many people on the queensland forum seem to know about him and his cefiro pretty well. Please speak to him and stop him from making the wrong decision because I will and I mean will take him down hard with criminal charges of fraud just so I can show him how pissed off I am and to make him an example for other people who think its easy to commit fraud in the for sale section. Even still the freight guarantee's that it should arrive here in a maximum of 10 days so I am taking it easy until tuesday which will be when the 10 day limit expires, to which if it does arrive I will apologise and delete this thread but I am not too confident that this will happen. I will update on tuesday to the situation at hand. Regards, Scott

Cheers Duncan! Yup Baz is what I was after

And presto it changes