Baz

Post a price as per forum rules

I have my Nissan Datascan tool for sale. $200 firm plus shipping. I have already used the tool to suss out all the problems with my car and now have no need for it. Used it probably only once or twice and is in excellent condition. The installation of the tool is very easy to install as it is a plug and play device which only needs to be plugged into the consult port of the car near the fuse box. It is an excellent tool for finding problems with suspect failure in components such as Air con compressors, fuel pumps, O2 sensors, thermo fans, Leaning/rich fuel ratios and much much more. The list of features this tool includes is: rpm speed (km/h and mph) afm voltage injector pulse width injector duty cycle coolant temp ignition timing tps voltage absolute tps position (%age) EGT voltage (if supported by ecu) o2 sensor voltage AAC position (%age) battery voltage Lean/Rich Indicator Flags (On/off indicators): Closed TPS, A/C Relay, A/C Compressor, Fuel pump, start switch, VTC solenoid, thermo fans, and a few others. More information can be found at: http://members.optusnet.com.au/impakt01/nds/

This is a general question but more so in regards to adjusting the handbrake on R32's. My handbrake is loose on my R32, basically meaning when I pull the handbrake up the shoe in the rear drum drags while moving rather than locking it up like it should. The main reason for wanting to do this is mainly for drifting. In order to get rid of the slack do people adjust the handbrake at the rear shoe and readjust the handbrake cable as necessary? Or find that they can just get away with adjusting the cable? Cheers,

Run your hand across the worn part of the tyre, if feels a bit furry when you run it across at a certain angle it is due to "feathering" which on the inside of the tyre would be due to excessive toe out. Lowering the suspension of the car will give the car more negative camber. Think about it. As the suspension lowers and the tyre moves farther up the guard, the lower control arm pushes in at the base of the wheel and produces more negative camber. The solution: raise your suspension again or buy a camber kit (in order for it to be adjustable)

Omfg that is a big turbo....

Viper is an illegal alarm. Not endosed by insurance companies. So basically if your car gets broken into or stolen and written off. Thats just bad luck. I found this out the hard way. And i dont know what the boomerang alarm is sorry.

Are you parting with the R33 turbo? I'm interested

If your still interested in seperating with the turbo ill come over disassemble it myself, remove any other components that you need to sell which your having a problem with and pay cash. Interested? Send me a PM

Head units can be repaired by your local audio shop, take it into them and see what they can do. However getting them repaired can be costly and you won't know how expensive it is really going to be until the unit is in pieces. In most cases, it can be cheaper to just buy a new headunit. There are many similar units, with similar features for the same price. Generally just go with the one that you like the look of better and is easier to use and you will be happy.

If you want I can get you a set of deep chrome wheel nuts from my work for free. There about 2-3 inches deep I think and are used on the BA falcon 17" and 18" rims. Let me know if you want some and you can come and pick some up. Cheers,

Also theres one which says clarion on the side? Is it some sort of amp?

How much for the R33 turbo?

Has it been used? Reason for selling?

BB means ball bearing

Somehow I don't think an aftermarket one, over a genuine one is going to have any performance advantages over either one. There just fuel filters for god sake, not turbo's

I'm going to take the door trims off tomorrow and suss out the problem. I'll be back with what is causing the problem sometime tomorrow. Need to get it sorted before it does anymore damage.

Since having my car I've noticed that the Speedo isnt giving a correct reading. I first noticed when the 100 km/h overspeed warning starting coming on at 110km/h and sitting on 100 km/h people were overtaking me . Since discovering that I've bought one of the Consult data screens and it tells me a different story. The overspeed warning and screen work co-incidly together and the screen tells me the truth while the speedo on the instrument cluster lies... Also the RPM meter is out of range as well. Has anyone come across this before? Is it easy to repair? Or would it be easy to buy an aftermarket dash instead to fix my problem? My thinking is that maybe the original dash was replaced with maybe an auto one? So that it gave a lower mileage reading? Any comments are greatly appreciated. Cheers,

On all on my windows the guides are beginning to scratch the window. Apparently there is a foam guide which wears off over time and then begins scratching the window, its either plastic or metal, while the window moves up and down. Apparently this the case on most R32's and on the GTR's when this occurs it scratches the window in two places. This is supposed to be a fairly common thing on the R32's. Has anyone come across this and know how it can be fixed?

Heard a story of a bloke who went into a Mitsubishi dealership, went up to one of the new EVO and said I want that one. He was an old bloke covered in dirty clothes, ripped jeans and generally smelt really bad. Went up to the counter and opened a bag with $70 odd thousand dollars inside and said he was going to pay for it in cash upfront. Thinking that the money was stolen the salesman went down and rang the police. The police arrived and it turned out that he ran a scrap yard. Someone who does a crap job but earns a crap load of money. The salesman was astonished, felt like a real asshole and was really sorry. The guy still actually bought the car lol. Stories of how you cant judge a book by its cover. If I ever earn a lot of money when I'm older I'm going to walk into Barbagello's with $500,000 in cash, dressed in shorts and a singlet and say I want that Ferrari there. If he laughs at me I'll show him the money and say "Unlucky mate, Cya later." I actually went in there a couple of months ago and was looking around at the cars in the showroom and one of the salesman actually took me seriously which was surprising. They have probably gotten used to it by now.

Checking the battery is the obvious one. When you push start it, it generally does take a while for the RPM to go back to normal so thats not unusual. It you had problems with the coil packs it wouldnt prevent it from starting it would just cause it to misfire. Other things to look at are: -Starter motor -Alternator Just look at all the things that could prevent it from starting but not affect the car once it starts running. But I would be lead to believe that it could just be the battery. Cheers,

Yeah rain is coming down all around me :|

http://adelaidejap.com.au is probably the biggest one in Aus and they ship the motors. Not sure about one in Brisbane though.

Yeah dont go out and be stupid by buying a massive turbocharger for it. Do everything else first.

Check your steering boots to see if there split. What car do you drive? If its a GTR then check the front CV's as well. Normally on FWD cars a clicking noise when turning is usually the CV joints gone, if you notice it soon enough you can sometimes get away with just replacing the boot if it starts becoming noisy the whole CV joint has to be replaced.

I would highly recommend saving your money on buying a GTR full stop. Your 18 right? Don't go out and be stupid buying a car you can't handle with money you don't have. At your age that 15 odd grand could be much better spent elsewhere. I believe a lot of other people would agree with me on that one. Go out and buy yourself a GTS-T R32 learn to drive that and if you crash it, it wont be too hard on the pocket. If you want something which is very fast in a straight line and something that not many people have, go out and buy yourself a GTi-R Pulsar at the more affordable price than of a GTR. By the way if you wish to speak to someone in Perth who knows a hell of a lot about importing skylines, go down and speak to Paul from Autoworx in Wangara. They import and can comply R33's, R34's and do 15 year old compliance mainly for R32's. That way you can speak to a helpful guy about skylines and you can check out (maybe test drive) some of the other skyline range down there. And he charges $880 to import cars, much cheaper than the $1100 and $1000 fees companies like prestige motorsport and j-spec do.