Baz

Errr.. why exactly would you modify a RB26 box to go behind an RB20 when they are built to suit a 4wd setup, have the same internals are RB25 boxes and are worth more than Rb25 boxes?

Hotwire refers to the factory 02 sensor. The way that the car is tuned and setup really depends on the car and the mods you have.

The complete list that I do when compliancing an R34 is. - Oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, new oil - Headlights modified from the xenon globes to the H1's (if there nice, they can modify the headlights so it can be reconverted back to the xenon setup) - 3 child restraits (some shops will only comply the R34 coupe's as 4 seaters so only use 2 restraits, GTR's are obviously a 4 seater anyway) - Modify the drivers power window switch (to stop the window from being operated after the ignition is turned off) - Cat convertor - All new tyres with the proper DOT markings - Genuine brake pads will need to be fitted if not - Rotors at all correct thickness's with not too much of a large lip otherwise will need to be machined - Brake line numbers must all have the correct markings - Same with seat belts - Various tests to be carried out to make sure emissions and sound levels are all correct - Tint removed (if fitted) - New carbon canister (whether its a nissan or aftermarket depends on the workshops evidence) - Engine, unleaded and tyre stickers fitted Also along with the fact of having all the standard parts fitted and in good condition Remember that not all workshops have the same evidence for compliance but are all very similar

Definately sounds like fouled plugs to me

You can't compare a standard VR38DETT to a modified RB26DETT. End of story is that in standard form the VR38DETT is far far more technically advanced than the RB26DETT. No one has modifed a VR38DETT yet so who knows the potential of the motor, I mean how much power would a VR38DETT make if you removed all the emission crap, fitted up a free flowing exhaust, boosted it up and gave it a retune? I'm sure it would be a hell lot more than the factory output, especially with such a large capacity and a pair of decent turbos hanging off the side of it.

In my opinon, if your car is sporting a 30DET, I wouldn't even allow risking it to overheat. I have a Just Jap item in my car and it works well. If you resort to a RB20DET one, at least get it flushed properly

Just a curious question that has been on my mind for some time now. What are the power benefits and risk factor on increasing the RPM of a standard motor? And if something would be to break, what would generally be the component that gives way first? I understand that this would only be benificial if you had a turbo that could flow enough air to make use of the higher RPM. Cheers, Scotty

The only reason why people would get shitty about using an engine flush is that when they are used, they will remove a lot of carbon buildup on the piston rings, which in some cases is the only thing that is sealing the compression of the motor from worn rings. They're actually quite effective. Drop your oil. Fill it with new oil, run it in with an engine flush and then drop it again, if its doing its job properly it will be black as. So that when you fill it once more it should be fine

VCT is what I meant to say. Where exactly would the 24U be stamped on the block? Because I'm pretty sure there was a 05U cast into the underside of the block.

Yup.. the engine number on the side of the block was exactly as the same as the one on the picture as above. The only thing I though is that it did not have variable valve timing such as found in the R34 GTR motors. Does that mean that it is not a R34 NUR motor then?

Use a glue solvent such as brake clean of wax and grease remover. Push some underneath the spoiler and let it set. It will eventually make it a bit easier to pull off. Oh yeah and there are some clips holding it in place as well. Might as well use a rag and a dent lever to pull it off

Errr... its pretty obvious. The 26/30 conversion would be the best conversion and also the most expensive.

Simply just cut away the wires from the microtech that you need from the ecu and leave the others still attached to the loom that goes to the ecu so that it can operate the air conditioning correctly

Block up your standard BOV and let live the turbo flutter

I've worked in the compliance industry for a number of years and came across a motor which had a very usual marking on the engine block when I was attempting to get the engine number. It was in a 1994 R32 GTR Vspec with the an engine number that was something along the lines of the following R B 2 6 R 7 * * * * * X (The R should sit directly above the X marking) I believe the X denotes that the block was sold seperately from nissan. That when a engine block is bought from nissan it will have this marked on it and the block requires it to be restamped. What I don't get is what the R marking above the X stands for. The stampings all look factory, but I could be mistaken. Does anyone know what this R marking could stand for? Does it mean that it is an N1 motor? I also pulled the front cam cover off and all the bolts where brand new, as if it had come like that from factory. I'm quite baffled to know what it could be..

Use the EMS 8860 computer if your having problems locating a PFC AP engineering version

Errr... maybe you change the globes for blue ones? Lol.. Anyway, they are basic 12W wedge type park light gloves. Two screws to each light, pull out and put new ones in. Shouldnt take more than 5 mins to do

Rear is interchangeable with R32 GTR, which will also fit on S13's and Cefiros as well. I believe front will fit as well, but by putting a large front swaybar in will cause the car to understeer if the selection is too large when compared to the size of the rear swaybar and choice of spring/damper rates

Yeah I've actually driven Ken's car before Thats where I originally got the idea from. The car was just so stiff and rigid and also insanely loud as well lol. The only difference is that I'll probably leave a lot of the interior inside the car, so that its still loud inside, but doesnt echo like Ken's car did. AFAIK Ken seam welded his car on a hoist. Was just curious how others have done it.

You would be surprised by the amount of rigity that you would get by seam welding a car. It's something which many people really dont do. Due to the amount of work stripping out the car, removing the sound deadner and then getting access to a MIG welder to do the spot welding along the seams. It will be getting a roll cage but as Duncan said before its regardless of how you are at fabrication, if its not CAMS approved then you will basically be turned away from many tracks. This is why I've considered getting a bolt in jap half cage, may not be CAMS approved but they have some marking that I'm aware of that allows people to use them at the track. They are unfortunately only of 38mm thickness (I think) which is below the CAMS requirements for a cage.

From theory if the car is seam welded while under tension from adjustable strut braces (front/rear), tension rod (front suspension) and B pillar brace. The shell typically should be held in place once the car is seam welded and I guess would benefit from being on the ground as to add more tension to the chassis. The interior and boot will be welded with the motor in it to give it more realistic circumstances ie. having the weight of the motor on the car. Motor will be removed once this is done and seam welded seperately. The cage that will be put in wont be a stressed member, so won't be in there while the car is being seam welded. It will probably be a 4 point half cage for the time being once the car is being sorted, with an additional 2 points, extending over the drivers head, through the firewall to the front strut towers once the car is further sorted (I don't like 6 point full cages with points located near the drivers foot). Considering having two of the rear points extending to the rear strut towers as well. This is just theory for the time being before I have a set direction I want to take with the car. Just wondering on how others have done it before I head off and do it myself. Will be used for drifting btw. Recently obtained a R32 RB25DE motor which hopefully will convert to a RB30DET with a GT35R. Which I'll use in the car

What ecu did you use?

Differences are the exterior body styling and thats it. Everything else is identical

In the next month or two I am going to seam weld the chassis in my car. Obviously first off I'll be removing all the sounds deadner before I begin to seam weld the engine bay, floor pan and boot area. Before I begin though I have a few questions for those experienced that have done it before. - Does the car require to be lifted off the ground and if so is it critical that the car is completely level before seam welding? - Would the car benifit from being under tension from strut brace towers and B pillar bars before welding? Any one who can point me in the right direction and give me some tops would be appreciative. Cheers, Scotty

Well because they are both RB25's, they are basically the same motor. AFAIK, the cams and injectors are very similar if not the same. The only reason I could see them being different is to reach the 206kw output of the R34 motor, compared to the 185kw (I think) output of the R33 S2 motor. ECU and loom are different because of a few added sensors to the NEO. IMO choosing a neo when doing an engine conversion is to do with wank factor for it being a NEO and a funky engine cover. Sure they are an updated and newer motor with revised parts (Different intake, revised breather hose setup, added sensors, slightly larger turbo) but it just does not justify the extra expense that you require to fork out for one. And if you know how to drive and how to setup a car properly, having a RB25 compared to an SR should barely affect the handling of the car at all. This obviously incoperates choosing the correct spring rate for the front to balance out the extra weight across the car.