Baz

What exactly makes up a good LSD? How exactly is an aftermarket LSD different from say the stock Skyline one? Also what is the difference between two-way and three-way LSD?

Just wondering what would be the best way to set up a car for drifting? I'm guessing things such as adjustable coilovers and front/rear strut tower bars help but what else would be the best way to set up a car for drifting for a person who accepts nothing less than the best :wassup: Cheers,

I'm pretty sure thats a Vertex body kit. If so I was possibly looking for one myself

Yeah my car is basically unmodded and unchanged at the moment. I may have a bit of fun just running low boost and an atmo BOV at this point in time until I get used to the power of a faster car. I was planning to focus more on the handling of the car instead of just raw power. Just going to have fun at first while I build up a couple of ideas for the future

A question though. Is the factory BOV capable of handling high boost levels or once it reaches a certain boost level it begins leaking air. Is there any real reason to buy a BOV rather than for PSCHHH!! sound? Or can the factory one cope with it well enough?

I'm a first time buyer of a turbo car (buying a R32 GTS-T) and am looking for a few beginning upgrades for my car. As a BOV seems to be one of the most popular upgrades for a turbo car I just want to make sure I buy the right one and be happy with it. I would like to hopefully hear from some people about there experiences with there BOV's from the various dramas/problems they may have had or the satisfaction they got from it. From what I have read the HKS SSQ BOV seems to be the best but it is also bloody pricy. But with so many other manufactures such as GREDDY, Turbosmart and other brands there are so much to choose from. Also I would like to know the pro's/con's of plumback systems. All comments would be greatly appreciated, Cheers.

I tell you nothing compares to a Deep Pan Meatlovers Pizza with BBQ sauce. *drool*...... NOTHING COMPARES!! And i can't stand those little fish things... anchovies? Now they are disgusting.

Yeah I've driven one before... There's absolutely mad cars.. And easy cars to pull a bit of extra power out of them as well. Pretty much a beefed up Ford BA XR6 Turbo. There rated at 270kw i think? They basically look like a falcon GT without the power-bulge bonnet and only come as 6 speeds. Oh yeah and they produce 560nm (the most of any australian production car ever built) at 2500 rpm.

Are there any advantages of a ceramic wheel over a steel wheel? Besides the ceramic being lighter?

Man you guys have WAY too much money.. To do something like that I normally have to buy the materials, learn and do it myself. It doesn't look to difficult to do though. Really just looks like setting up the frame and recarpeting it to make it look all meshed together and flowing nicely. Probably a lot more to it though.

Hey where do you get the harlequin spray cans from and is there any particular way of applying it to cover in order to get it to change from green to purple?

Front brake pads wear a lot quicker than the rear pads, due to when you brake the weight of the car shifting heavily onto the front suspension of the car, also why the front calipers are always bigger than the rear as well. Depending on how you drive, the type of brake pad you use influences how often you have to change the pads. As with brake fluid, it should really only be influenced by time not distance or how hard you drive. Brake fluid as a minimum should be flushed every 24 months. Brake fluid only gets contaminated by the amount of water it absorbs (also believe me you don't want to spill it on paint) hence really how well its sealed off for example if your constantly taking the cap off and checking it will obviously wear quicker. By absorbing moisture it lowers the boiling point of the fluid and excessive use in a short time can lead to piston lockups. I had it recently happen to myself in my bang around laser. Fanged around for a while, fluid in rear left (futherest from the master cylinder) expanded and put an uneven amount of pressure on the pad compared to the other brakes. What happen is that in a straight line the car pulled to the left and under light braking it caused even more pressure to be put on the piston causing one wheel to lock up and pull dangerously to the left. I had this happen to myself in heavy traffic and the pulling power was unbelievable not to mention the time it took me to stop. It's after bad experience like that, that you take more care in attending to fluid. Anyway I probably got carried away with my own story but in conclusion brake fluid IMO should be changed every 12 months or in smaller intervals if you attend to it often and the consquences can be significant...... :wassup:

Yeah they sound like there a bunch of great blokes and Paul seems pretty helpful. I'm guessing they suggest you take your car to Warick Pits to get it complied. I took an XR6 Turbo (damn they go well ) down there yesterday to get NSW plates swapped for WA plates. Didn't have many problems but there's one particular guy which ripped into two people down there in front of me one which was a modified VL turbo (had it coming ) and a rebirthed S15. Luckily I didn't get him. The guy which I got and the rest seemed alright though.

Errr... I have a n00b question to ask. What does FMIC stand for?

How difficult is it to set up a turbo car running Nitro? As difficult as any other car or different?

Yeah went up and spoke to the guys at Autoworx in Wangara in my lunch break, mind you which is only 200m from my work . Seemed like a bunch of real helpful guys, quoted me approximately $1400 for the fitment of 4 intrusion bars (aka 4 door car), high level brake light, child mounting points, fuel filler restrictor, side mirror (not sure if centre mirror needs to be replaced? Anyone?), an engineering certificate and some other stuff. And also obviously if i did a couple of things myself that price would go right down. Seems like a pretty decent price? Any comments?

I think I've got a link to it. I'll post the GTR one later on in the week.

Errrr... damn.... I don't suppose there's anyway to change usernames then?

Hey does anyone know, i'm in the middle of complying a 4 door R32 GTS-T. Are the rules for side intrusion bars the same? Do you have to get bars just for the front doors, all doors or don't have to get any at all? Dunno maybe due to the pillar between the front and rear doors means that you don't need them? I'm guessing it's the same for all 4 door vehicles so has anyone who recently complied a 4 door vehicle needed to install intrusion bars?

Well it really depends on what sort of car your removing it from and how the spoiler is set up but most car spoilers are bolted into the boot lid so its really just a matter of removing the bolts from the underside of the boot lid and it should come off. I think most factory spoilers have double-sided tape also to act as a cushon between the spoiler and boot lid to stop it from rattling around and sit firmly. In the case of fitting a new spoiler, depending on the spoiler your fitting you generally have to drill new holes (so make sure you mark the holes and get it right the first time) and then basically just bolt it through.

Gawd that sucks, is there much stuff in compliancing that you can DIY? Or do you need to take it directly to an engineer and get them to comply it directly? Do you have the name and/or business name of the engineer that you used to pass it over the pits? Cause if you would consider them good i may use them as well.

Damn you've gone offline Anyone else atm who has a copy of the RB20det engine manual or a link to a website?

The maxima looks very similar to the V35 Skyline however, the exterior's have a lot in common

Are those R33 and R34 yours as well?

Yeah in the case where a BOV isnt operating sufficiently the air bounces off the throttle plate when it snaps shut and the only way to release its pressure is back through the turbo.