Baz
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Posts posted by Baz
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Hey where do you get the harlequin spray cans from and is there any particular way of applying it to cover in order to get it to change from green to purple?
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Front brake pads wear a lot quicker than the rear pads, due to when you brake the weight of the car shifting heavily onto the front suspension of the car, also why the front calipers are always bigger than the rear as well. Depending on how you drive, the type of brake pad you use influences how often you have to change the pads.
As with brake fluid, it should really only be influenced by time not distance or how hard you drive. Brake fluid as a minimum should be flushed every 24 months. Brake fluid only gets contaminated by the amount of water it absorbs (also believe me you don't want to spill it on paint) hence really how well its sealed off for example if your constantly taking the cap off and checking it will obviously wear quicker. By absorbing moisture it lowers the boiling point of the fluid and excessive use in a short time can lead to piston lockups.
I had it recently happen to myself in my bang around laser. Fanged around for a while, fluid in rear left (futherest from the master cylinder) expanded and put an uneven amount of pressure on the pad compared to the other brakes. What happen is that in a straight line the car pulled to the left and under light braking it caused even more pressure to be put on the piston causing one wheel to lock up and pull dangerously to the left. I had this happen to myself in heavy traffic and the pulling power was unbelievable not to mention the time it took me to stop. It's after bad experience like that, that you take more care in attending to fluid. Anyway I probably got carried away with my own story but in conclusion brake fluid IMO should be changed every 12 months or in smaller intervals if you attend to it often and the consquences can be significant...... :wassup:
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Yeah they sound like there a bunch of great blokes and Paul seems pretty helpful. I'm guessing they suggest you take your car to Warick Pits to get it complied. I took an XR6 Turbo (damn they go well
) down there yesterday to get NSW plates swapped for WA plates. Didn't have many problems but there's one particular guy which ripped into two people down there in front of me one which was a modified VL turbo (had it coming ) and a rebirthed S15. Luckily I didn't get him. The guy which I got and the rest seemed alright though. -
Errr... I have a n00b question to ask. What does FMIC stand for?
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How difficult is it to set up a turbo car running Nitro? As difficult as any other car or different?
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Yeah went up and spoke to the guys at Autoworx in Wangara in my lunch break, mind you which is only 200m from my work
. Seemed like a bunch of real helpful guys, quoted me approximately $1400 for the fitment of 4 intrusion bars (aka 4 door car), high level brake light, child mounting points, fuel filler restrictor, side mirror (not sure if centre mirror needs to be replaced? Anyone?), an engineering certificate and some other stuff. And also obviously if i did a couple of things myself that price would go right down. Seems like a pretty decent price? Any comments? -
I think I've got a link to it. I'll post the GTR one later on in the week.
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Errrr... damn....
I don't suppose there's anyway to change usernames then?
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Hey does anyone know, i'm in the middle of complying a 4 door R32 GTS-T. Are the rules for side intrusion bars the same? Do you have to get bars just for the front doors, all doors or don't have to get any at all? Dunno maybe due to the pillar between the front and rear doors means that you don't need them? I'm guessing it's the same for all 4 door vehicles so has anyone who recently complied a 4 door vehicle needed to install intrusion bars?
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Well it really depends on what sort of car your removing it from and how the spoiler is set up but most car spoilers are bolted into the boot lid so its really just a matter of removing the bolts from the underside of the boot lid and it should come off. I think most factory spoilers have double-sided tape also to act as a cushon between the spoiler and boot lid to stop it from rattling around and sit firmly.
In the case of fitting a new spoiler, depending on the spoiler your fitting you generally have to drill new holes (so make sure you mark the holes and get it right the first time) and then basically just bolt it through.
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Gawd that sucks, is there much stuff in compliancing that you can DIY? Or do you need to take it directly to an engineer and get them to comply it directly?
Do you have the name and/or business name of the engineer that you used to pass it over the pits? Cause if you would consider them good i may use them as well.
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Damn you've gone offline
Anyone else atm who has a copy of the RB20det engine manual or a link to a website? -
The maxima looks very similar to the V35 Skyline however, the exterior's have a lot in common
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Are those R33 and R34 yours as well?
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Yeah in the case where a BOV isnt operating sufficiently the air bounces off the throttle plate when it snaps shut and the only way to release its pressure is back through the turbo.
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One of my sisters friends about a week ago, inherited an R33 Skyline after 1 week on his P plates, came out of maccas, put foot to the floor, lost control, smashed into the opposite side curb and bent his rear axle. Goes to show that first time P platers shouldn't be given high performance cars as first cars. Sticking with the good ol' lasers and civics as first cars would be a smart idea and would also save you big bucks in the end.
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Hey i'm in the process of importing an 89' R32 Four Door GTS-T Skyline and while I think i'm pretty prepared for getting it on the road and running, I haven't the slightest clue about what needs to be done to the vehicle to pass it over the pits. I've been told that the car 'apparently' needs to have have side intrusion bars fitted, child restrait points and a couple of other things I can't remember to be done. I've emailed a couple of places about what needs to be done but there very inconsistant with there replying.
So has anyone recently gone through the process of getting an import registered or more specifically the GTS-T R32 and could tell me what possibly needs to be done to pass it through pits. Also I've never been through the pits before. Apparently it's a pretty evil place to go to.
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Apparently D & T peformance exhaust are known for doing good quality work but they are a bit pricey. I work just down the road from them and we put a lot of our cars through them for exhaust, cold induction upgrade kits etc.
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How expensive would it be to build a hybrid turbo from the original turbo, obviously using different compressor and exhaust turbine wheels? Would it be a bad idea to use the original housing?
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Peformance wise, wouldnt it be better to have a complete plumback system wired to flow back just after the airpod? By doing that wouldn't it reduce turbo lag?
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I've spent last night hours on end trying to find a R32 Engine Manual cause I heard rumors of one floating around. I managed to get my hands on the R32 GTR manual and the R33 manual but couldnt find one suitable for the RB20det.
If anyone knows whether there is actually one floating around somewhere could you post up a link or another way of transfering the manual.
Cheers
) down there yesterday to get NSW plates swapped for WA plates. Didn't have many problems but there's one particular guy which ripped into two people down there in front of me one which was a modified VL turbo (had it coming 
. Seemed like a bunch of real helpful guys, quoted me approximately $1400 for the fitment of 4 intrusion bars (aka 4 door car), high level brake light, child mounting points, fuel filler restrictor, side mirror (not sure if centre mirror needs to be replaced? Anyone?), an engineering certificate and some other stuff. And also obviously if i did a couple of things myself that price would go right down. Seems like a pretty decent price? Any comments?
Anyone else atm who has a copy of the RB20det engine manual or a link to a website?
My boot install before I change it again
in Car Audio & Electrical
Posted
Man you guys have WAY too much money.. To do something like that I normally have to buy the materials, learn and do it myself. It doesn't look to difficult to do though. Really just looks like setting up the frame and recarpeting it to make it look all meshed together and flowing nicely. Probably a lot more to it though.