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Baz

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Everything posted by Baz

  1. First off the R32 four door is exactly the same wheelbase and dimensions as the coupe (the roof is slightly higher) and weighs 20kg's more. If you import a 1990 model A31 with heavy modifications how are you going to register it? SEVS if it is available for ceffies which I'm not sure if it is yet, requires the car to be completely dead stock (Rb20 motor) and everything else removed. This includes suspension, motor modifications, wheels and everything else that isn't original. Just to put it clearly any car built in December 1988 and before can be registered with the need to follow the sevs rules. That cancels out the R32. The S13 would be very hard to find with a motor other than a SR made for drifting. You best bet if you want to import a car that you want to use to focus on drifting would be a A31 cefiro 1988 dec or prior. It is a pretty common thing for A31's to have the RB20 removed in place for a RB25DET and would be an easier find. As for RB26's, there really not as reliable as you might imagine. Ask the dozens on GTR owners that have imported GTR's under the old 15 year rule that have had cars come over with blown engines. Also GTR's are expensive motors to rebuild as well. As for using a GTR for drifting? They are 4wd and front heavy. GTR's were built to be track cars.. not drift cars.. My 2 cents
  2. Weld up the wastegate on your turbo and get a external gate welded onto your manifold with a screamer pipe.
  3. You've got to be joking. The engine alone is worth about $3k+
  4. As long as the engine modifications aren't severe then yes it can be done. We have imported several modified R33's and R34's because we have access to stock parts which can be swapped for the pits and compliancing and then swapped back afterwards. Car's with bodykits (not over the top of course), interior mods etc. will pass compliancing and the pits. We sent a R33 with a FMIC fitted over the pits a while back and passed no worries. If you would like me to go into more detail or have any questions just ask. Cheers,
  5. Go to welshpool pits.. they are by far the best
  6. I had a mate who's car was broken into on I think that same night.. He lives in Joondalup as well. Luckily the alarm went off and chased them down the street with a bat. They got away though
  7. Hrmmm... ok if I vent it atmos or put a small filter in it should be ok then...
  8. It's for a dedicated track car anyway. Are there any other symptoms I might encounter as well?
  9. The charcoal canister is that little black device with 4 hoses running off it that sits in front of the pod filter or airbox. What does it actually do? Because if it doesn't do anything I'll just remove it and plug up the vacuum line rather than relocating it elsewhere because at this stage it is just taking up room. Cheers
  10. I have a R32 sedan which I use to compete with in Perth. The basic mods I started off with was a catback exhaust, pod filter, hicas lock, front and rear strut braces and a set of coilovers. Which I found was more than enough to start drifting on. Since then I have added pineapples, GTR skyline rear swaybar (enables slightly more oversteer), a cheap spring type boost controller and a FMIC. If I had my time again I would spend the money on buying a decent FMIC kit, preferably one which has 'switchback' piping (comes in at the right and goes back the same way) because it will for one allow you to put in a decent size oil cooler in a convinent location and also avoid the heatsoak that the piping recieves through the crossover piping (which pretty much render's the FMIC pointless). There is no need for 17" rims or tyres. I drift on stock GTS-T rims 205/55R16's front and rear with the rears sets set to 45 psi. However if you already have them good grip front tyres are definately a necessity. Before you go drifting on the track remove your rear seat and spare tyre and then you should be able to fit 4 rims with tyres in the area where the back seat was with ease. Having more power always helps.. but its pretty pointless if you can't use it effectively due to lack of driver skill or suspension setup. Stock power with a catback exhaust and a pod is more than enough to start off with. Allows you to drift with your foot flat as well most of the time which makes it easier to drift on. So in your position I would say lock the HICAS as a first priority then find some coilovers and then an exhaust. And this should be more than enough to get you started. Oh yeah make sure your handbrake is adjusted properly as well. Cheers,
  11. That box attached to the firewall is connected to the boost gauge on the dash and controls the reading of it. R32's don't have a boost cut. I'm running 1 bar on my car atm and its not experiencing any boost cut
  12. R34 GTR rims! This car is going to sell quick
  13. Don't be a girl and do it yourself I did mine a couple of weeks back and used a Xtreme HD organic clutch.. great clutch. Paid like $220 for it brand new.
  14. Get a decat pipe and shoot flames. Just make sure you don't get caught with it
  15. It works by having an extended seperater which comes off the flange to seal the exhaust housing of the turbo from the waste gate and exducer (exhaust wheel) of the turbo. Have a look at BATML (I think it is) split dump for R33/R32 in the business section and you will see how the seperator goes. Screamer pipes on stock turbos while as not being as loud as ones with external wastegates are still f**king loud as. And considernig stock turbos are pretty small it will be on venting pretty much the whole time. Sounds cool but a bit risky in terms of getting pulled over and scaring little kids and old women.
  16. I have similar mods and I have trouble in my R32 with it. Although I do have coilovers If its still annoying you just hit third gear instead. I don't think there is anything wrong with your car at all. Just enjoy the nature of a RWD turbo
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