Hardman69

Is there a popping-type noise along with the hesitation? Sounds like another victim of the R33 coil-pack breakdown. Cold-start it one night with the bonnet up, and look VERY closely along the sides of the coil-packs in pitch-black (with the coil-cover off) - If you see blue arcing to the carrier-bracket, then you need the dodgey silicon/araldite fix, or new coil pack(s) This is just a best-guess

There's a guy on ebay doing Autotechnica Monza 3" 6-point FIA harnesses for $170, dated 'til end of 2011. I bought the updated model (same thing, as far as I can tell, just a newer homologation) and it's great. Quality seems spot-on. Ok to be used as a 4-point, as far as I know . . . . ?

Once You've installed A full 3" exhaust with straight-through mufflers, and a decent FMIC, the Stock Turbo will push out 9psi even without a boost controller, because the Turbo's exducer (How in the frig do U spell that?) and wastegate can't flow enough to stop runaway turbo spool-up. It should stabilise around 9psi just on the factory 5psi wastegate actuator. I'd say, while You've got the exhaust off, pull the turbo too, take off the exhaust-housing and check that the Turbo-manifold flange is dead-flat. Mine warped after a couple of trackdays, and kept blowing gaskets out - so I had to get it machined-flat again. I'm using the factory Nissan gasket after blowing 2 aftermarket ones (We'll see how it goes). I'd suggest getting the exduser (??) opened out VERY slightly and smoothed-off, to allow a frag more gas bypass, as well as D-porting the wastegate port slightly, and smoothing it aswell, to stop boost creep. You can do the Wastegate yourself with a die-grinder, just don't take much/any out from the thinnest part of the housing, near the turbine opening. (it'll probably crack from heat if you do). Also, make sure you don't take too much from where the wastegate touches-down first (closest to hinge) when it closes - otherwise it can bind when it closes. Like the other guys have said, 12psi is the "safe" limit for the ceramic wheel'd stockie. "High-flowing" the exhaust housing on the stockie is mainly to allow more heat & exhaust flow, reducing back-pressure in the exhaust manifold - for MORE POWAH at the same boost level. Next, I did PowerFC, 'coz the factory ECU gets Frikkin rich around 10psi, which hurts power, and starts breaking-down the spark if you've got weak/dodgey coils like Me. (Note: I did the Silicon-fix, went from breaking spark @9psi, to 18psi and fine!) - oh, do the 0.8mm spark plug gap, and forget Iridium plugs - I found them worse than the V-Groove's I had, and they cost a PACKET ! People seem to get good results from the Copper-tip plugs too. So look hard & fast for a powerFC, they're still around - just a matter of luck to get one at a good price now. (Production stopped 3+ months ago) Fuel system is good to around 210rwKw, My Air flow meter signal maxxed out around 190rwKw, although some folk get closer to 220rwKw (I think). I'd get the stock airbox off the dude that sold it to You if You can - just for legalities sake.

Noooiiiiice 1 ! Where'd You get the shims from? Nissan, I assume?

Sweeet - thanks dude - 'coz I'm thinking, if there's Two 0.8mm shims from factory, I'll replace them with Two 1.4mm shims, - that'll keep everything nice and centered, and clamp it a total of 1.2mm tighter - about middle of the road, compared to what everyone else has done on the D1NZ forum. Have good Eastering !

EVIL i sez, EVIL ! ! Looks like some raw grip is missing from the rear too.. . .

Has anyone had one stay tight, after hard driving AND daily driving? I've read the D1NZ forum, and one guy reckons He CAN'T get his to loosen up! I'm wondering if the guys who's Diffs stay tight after the mod are using Redline or something, to stop wear? And can anyone confirm, or deny that there's a 0.8mm shim BOTH sides from factory? Thanks.

Coool - thanks Nick. Does anyone know if there's a shim on both sides of the L.S.D. centre, or just one side? I'd rather shim both sides equally, rather than just one.. . . . You're still street-driving your R33, yeah? Maybe You should come for a ride in My beeaaatch before You go looking to go too hard in the suspension. . . . .

OH YEAH BABY! Do You know the part Number of the Shim, Ray? Co$t? I need to replace the gasket behind the Diff's rear-cover anyway, it's weeping & stinking the car up with diff-oil. SMELL the dead Dinosaur ! ! Roy: FULL STIFF F.T.W. on that front-bar dude! at least it'll scrub the nose wide then, instead of snapping the rear loose! mmm, rebuilding at LEAST the FRONT shocks is probably in order after 6 years . . . . How's the Kaaz 1.5way feel?

Just watched the YouTube vid. Ummm, Roy: I'm not the most tactful of chaps, not sure exactly how to put this - So I'll just say it: YOUR R32 LOOKS EVIL TO DRIVE ! ! ! ! I know You're putting down a good-whack more power than Me, but JEEZUS does that rear-end LUUURRVV to break-out ! ! ! Where You snapped sideways in T3 (BIG KUDOS for the catch!), I'm driving through clean, with 0.9->1.05Gs Lateral, 1.4->2.4deg sideways, at 186->191km/h. I ended up wherever I wanted for the braking zone - Looks like You worked HARD to get it lined up in the vid ! ! I pretty-much just let the front end grind away in steady-state mild understeer - no heart-attack moments! Is there any adjustment in your setup? It looked twitchy through Hayshed too - I was SUPER stable there, 1->1.2Gs at 170km/h, and NO slip whatsoever. YAY ! (not that mine didn't oversteer: 3->7 degrees of slide was NORMAL on my quickest lap around Southern Loop, Siberia and Lukey. 10degrees through T12!) Think about maybe a stack of soft rubber bushes and custom rear Anti-Roll bar links, so that you can add/remove bushes to the Rear A.R.B.Links and effectively soften-off the rear - roll as You please. The even dodgier way, is to just loosen off the nuts and give it some slack!! That'll make it come-in suddenly (but softer than now) as it rolls into the corner though . . . . NOT GOOD! My 2cents anyway. . . . and Jack's car looks MEGA neat & stable! (I take it R33 GTRs have taller Diff ratios? I was a gear-up most corners on that, and fighting wheelspin - even in 4th!)

Hehe, I don't mind sharing - not like we're racing ! Diff is standard Viscous Limo' - so it might as well be a single-spinner!!!! Thinkin of doing the shim-mod I saw in a magazine, while the gearbox is out. Should tighten it RIGHT UP if the article is true . . . (must get mag off mate) Front Anti-Roll bar is 22mm Rear Anti-Roll bar is 27mm (MONSTER!) It's got BASTARD-HARD HKS Hiper-D' coilovers all-round, You know: the first series (purple), before they went to Hiper-Drift ? If someone can find out the spring-rates and tell Me, I'd be MUCH obliged ! Adjustable ONLY in bump, Rebound is set (grrrr.. . . ) - The clicks I run are (out of 12) Street: F: 1 R: 2 Track (Street Tyres): F: 2->4 R: 4->7 Track (Re55s): F: 5->8 R: 4->5 The R-Compounds give WAY more front-end grip than street tyres, so I go much harder on the front-end to reduce/calm brake-dive, and cut turn-in oversteer. Setup-wise, It felt GREAT at P.I. - as "Right" as anything has ever felt to me. The main reason for the decent times, is that I can dial-in to braking points and corner-speeds pretty quickly, from when I raced Karts. The rear RE55s are TT-compound too, so they're ON by the end of the warm-up lap ! ! !

Hehey, ta! You're turning the R33 into a track-bitch, right? I was chattin 2 U about harness mounts? Holla if You want some input or help on that thing, should turn out to be a VERY handy bit of kit! I tend to have a decent knack for car/speed/self-modifying/setup type things. (sure You've 100s of ideas Yourself!) Oh, Here's My fave WRX from the day: (Chunky!)

My 2cents: - DON'T rule out buying a nice, SENSIBLY modified car. If it looks good, feels good, and 2nd/3rd opinions from trusted folk agree, then it probably IS good ! If you're thinking FMIC in the future though, DEMAND a stock airbox, even if it's not fitted. - Most "Stock" cars have been modified here, or in Japan at some stage, and returned to stock for compliance, or to sell to people chasing a stock car. i.e. Don't think You're getting a low-stressed, darling car JUST because it looks stock NOW. - Feel okay about thinking twice, and/or making someone wait a day or two while You take a second look/drive of another car You think you like better. I wish I'd gone for a slightly neater, silver R33 S2 I'd looked at - but I got the White beastie with rock-hard bastard suspension instead. You makes your choice, You lives widt it. (sic) I knew within 2 days EXACTLY what mods I was going to do to mine - it's just one of those things ! ! ! - 2 years on I'm still sticking to that original plan! Only things I'd change are paint, and the rock-hard suspension. Although, the HKS Hiper'Ds ARE FANTASTIC on P.I.. . . Maybe I'd keep the suspension after all.. . . . .

HAHAHA ! HAAAA ! ! Try getting one ! ! well, they're out there: $1750 from the ONLY wreckers in Melbourne Who've got one, $1400->1700 privately, if You don't mind pot-luck . . . . (That's not a shot at anyone, just the nature of 2nd hand stuff)

S . W . E . E . T . Thanks GTSR22

BumP

I'll show You my Data if You show Me yours . . . . Like I was saying . . . . . . R A Y ! ! ! PULL SOME FUEL OUTTA THAT THING MAAANN ! ! I had a nice lil' chat to George, who's doing the Sakers . . . . . . I'll take two, thanks!

I HAD done a whole picture-post with captions & whatnot, but the forum won't allow the type of link (dynamic). I know there's pics of: TRoy, Nick (Bonnet pins lookin good dude!), The GTR that Jack built, Anthony: (A lil' crossed up in one, just before it gets messy!), Gareth, John, Aaron, Recovery F.T.W. ! ! ! (You'll see) Wayne ! Ray: Dude, please, PLEASE pull some fuel out of this thing: (mid-shift) Steven Me Passing a WRX (the natural order of things), and later returning broken 'boxed (NOT the natural order of things !!!) So then, I'll just link to the whole Album, P.I. Photo Album, taken with Ben's Nikon digital SLR (thanks Ben!)

Hmmm, Me no likey them parts prices ! ! Where'd You get your box from Ruffels? Price?

W A R N I N G ! ! ! Data analysis about to happen, BORING ! So: I've dissected the DriftBox data from My 2.7 flying laps, before the gearbox cried "ENOUGH!" The TT-Compound Re55s on the rear were starting to get squirmy on my last lap, but they were hanging in there. I'll start running through the last lap I did: Lap: 1:53.5 (theoretical! - I moved the S/F line on the DBox software to before the 'box died) V.Max on PitStraight=220km/h (I've only got 200rwkw!) T1: Braked just after 2nd white line on track, down to 170km/h at turn-in, Eased into 0.9Gs T1: Scrubbed down to 164km/h (1.25Gs through Apex) before powering out to 178km/h. Into Southern: Braked in a straight line for 20m, before bleeding off into trail-braking, roughly in middle of track. (Note: Southern Loop is 400m long!) 100m into Southern: 1.2Gs, 116km/h, bleeding speed to 108km/h at 160m, where car goes light: 190m into Southern: 0.95Gs, 106km/h, start looking for that EXIT ! ! 225m into Southern: 1.2Gs, 112km/h, grip & track come back to you, on the gas! 400m: 0.45Gs, 142km/h, straightening up, getting that throttle buried hard into carpet. I'm 4.7degrees sideways here! ! And on and on it goes, just illustrating how much you can pull from a data trace. Over those 3 laps, I got 65metres later on the brakes into T1, with at least 20m up My sleeve on the last lap! The data shows I was quite gentle loading up the car into the fast corners, as well as having heaps to spare coming onto the front straight. You can D/load the DriftBox analysis software FREE from their website - I'm happy to email You my traces So You can see how soft I was in the scary-quick bits ! ! ! (no hiding with datalogging!) Ohh - I'm not sure how accurate this is, but according to this, coming through T12: 10.9 Degrees sideways @1.0Gs, @ 159km/h ! FOR THE WIN ! ! ! !

That's Stoney up in Sydney? I've phoned around a few places, sounds like $500->$1500 to rebuild, depending on what's busted-up in there. Oh - and Nismoid: 4th's synchros have been going steadily downhill for ages, I think that's lead directly to the selector problem. The actual Cogs feel Primo ! !

I've been to 3 of the Friday open practices, got video on a thread I did in events (i think). It varies a bit, some Fridays are car-only, and if you're lucky there'll only be 2 groups, which means 25min sessions! ! ! I've been to a damp/wet day where I was equal quickest there, but the last time I went it was race & track-only cars GALORE !

4th gear synchro's are cactus, and there's something majorly wrong with the selector fork and/or rod for 3rd/4th. fix'n or replacin' - I don't really mind, as long as I have a properly working 'box at the end of it! See last post for current situation . . . . all good so far !

Hey, still got that gearbox? What sorta condition are we talking? ta.

HOLY COW ! - And I thought MY gearbox was busted . . . . Hey Andrew, sorry for leaving My crap strewn everywhere next to You in the arvo - the guys wanted Me out at Siberia flagging quick-smart, had to just get the poor busted GTS-T off the jacks & RUN ! ! As for the 20th of May day - Does the Marque sports club mind "Jap crap" coming to play on their days? I might come along for a proper crack with a fully fit car, if I'm "Financial" again by then . . .