bucket1577

Differences between 'S and non 'S' (other than power output)are three spoke leather steering wheel on 'S' and (usually) LSD. Also red "GT' badge on side rather than blue. Other than that not much difference.

I've got a bog stock GTS25 ('93 model) with O2 panel filter, fuel economy out on the highway gets me around 10k per litre (550 - 600 safely on full tank), around town 6ish (300 - 350 safely). BTW you should have a 65 litre tank, not 50 as mentioned earlier.

I have that 'gay' front spoiler and can't hear it operate at all when the car is moving.

Around town about 350 km per tank - highway cruising between 550 - 600 kms

I think it would depend greatly on the disclaimer (which most of the ones I've seen have) just bear in mind that the accuracy of these machines is only as good as how recently it was checked for calibration. The only really sure way of not getting caught is by not drinking.

Non turbo has 4 wheel studs per wheel compared to 5 on the turbo standard rims on turbo are 16" and 15" on non turbo, brakes are a definite difference, just did mine but they are ABS. Final drive ratio (diff) is also different marginally and not always LSD on N/A, the gear box I'm not sure as mine has the same number on the manaufacture plate as a turbo model. Both have HiCas.

I've just been cruising a Skyline website from the UK and noticed a thread on replacing the bonnet support arm with two gas struts. Does anyone know if these are available in Australia and if so where they can be purchased. They look sweet. Anyone wanting to check them out go to http://www.gtr.co.uk/ there are photos.

Sounds more like the white nylon thingy that extends and retracks the antenna is broken. Mine went a while ago and you're right the motor for the antenna is a mongrel to get to. I think that you could probaly replace the nylon thing but I haven't woprked out how to do so yet, maybe someone else could help out? I ended up disconnecting the motor until I can fix or replace it.

[if you did the diagnostic in a garage or low light situation it will come up with a sensor problem. I checked my on my R33 in the dark and it told me there was a problem with that sensor, did it in daylilght and there was no problems. I don't think it woujld stop your air con from working though. Do you know if the compressor is OK?

Grab a copy of Unique Cars or similiar mag. Even if you don't want to buy privately, you'll find a yard in Melbourne that deals in imports. Spare a thought for us in Tassie, to my knowledge we don't have an import dealer at all in the state.

Thanks everyone. The difference between the two pads I've been quoted on is minimal, both sets are 155 mm long and 17 mm, the width varies. One set is 53 mm wide the other is 49 mm. I know its only a small variation and the pads themselves are the same profile other than the width, just needed to know what difference it would make.

I hope someone out there can help me. I've got a '93 R33 GTS25 which need new front pads. I'm looking at EBC pads and can't find the actual size I need. EBC have two sizes listed; DP1082 and 1046 but without pulling my old ones out and physically measuring them they can't tell me what I need. My car is not the 'S type' and is still bog standard brake wise. If anyone has replaced their front pads in a '93 and can remember the product code and brand I might be able to match them up. Thanks.

Sound to me like air con compressor. Mine let go on my R33 last year. Whoops in 2003. I ended up finding an original replacement but it cost me and arm and two testicles (about $1700) all up by the time the system was flushed and dryer replaced.

Thanks, Mick. I had a PM from a member the other day who suggested I look at the fuel filler, apparently there's been a lot of problems with poor compliencing when fitting the restrictor for unleaded fuel in the filler neck. I'll have a look at that first. I did locate a dodgy fuel line leading from the cap on top to the actual tank and replaced that, but it has re appeared more recently and this time with no stuffed lines. It only leaks when filling the tank to full and doesn't when just driving so the filler cap is my next job.

Anyone else had a problem with fuel leaking immediately on refilling. I've been plagued with this since I got the car (nearly 3 years now) and have tightened the cap on the fuel tank bewtween the rear seat and boot, replaced a length of fuel line which was delaminating, both of which have helped but the problem still persists! I'd like to hear from anyone that may have had a similiar problem and the remedies used.