Mitchee

Been following this since the beginning. Good on you for sticking with it. 2 years to the day since you started this thread!

Pickup in Ryde, Sydney. Contact via PM only please. 2x RADCAM HD20 In Car Camera Kits. Used in rally and race cars. Never powered up or used, I can only assume they work but they've been sitting around for a couple of years. $200/kit R34 GTT Auto Dash Cluster. Approx 80k km. Dusty but perfect condition. $50 4.38:1 R200 Diff. 5 bolt half shafts. No input flange as I stole it for another diff. Mega tight shimmed LSD. $250 DriftWorks thermostatic oil cooler kit. Used for 1000km. $350 New HKS Oil Filter UNF 3/4-16 thread $40 Apexi 3" Exhaust Silencer Valve $150 2x New Genuine HKS DD Mushroom Filters. 1 has an 80mm flange, the other a 4 bolt flange which I think is Z32. $50ea Genuine ARC Catch Can/Washer Bottle combo R33/R34 GTR. Super rare and will be in perfect condition after a polish. Currently dusty as its been sitting around. $500 RB26 Carbon Coil valley cover. $150

https://insolvencynotices.asic.gov.au/browsesearch-notices/notice-details/EDWARD-LEES-JAPANESE-AUTO-CENTRE-PTY-LTD-101097714/c84a9ad0-9437-48b1-970a-709c523807c3

This will rip sooooo hard. Perfect street car combo of bits in this in my opinion.

Something is being powered when it shouldnt be, and this is backfeeding the ECU causing it to stay on. Is there any wiring in your engine harness or near the ECU connector that isnt standard? Ive seen on some Stageas the A/C relay was fed with constant 12v from the battery, causing the ECU to remain on. Try removing the A/C relay in your engine bay, and see if the problem goes away.

This is true for any universal Haltech ECU such as a Platinum Sport or Elite, but not the Platinum Pro Plugin series ECUs. The Pro only supports the stock setup or 24+1 as explained above. For the single cam home/sync signal, in the past I've just covered the stock disk with a sticker and cut out one of the inner 6 windows to make a single slot for the optical sensor to pick up. Works fine.

6boost have a lifetime warranty against cracking, so there's that. I had a chat to Jez about this car, interesting story. Cant wait till its back on the road.

I've posted them in a few places around here, haha, so im sure he can find them. Cant wait to see how this thing will go with an unrestricted rear side and some Jez wizardry.

6466 1.0 twin scroll is an amazing match for a 3.2L..

These are all I have. Excuse the switching between HP/KW and the squirrely AFR trace. 18psi 24psi 30psi

You must use 12 teeth on the crank if you want this setup to work with your Haltech Platinum Pro.

No I mean Cootamundra. Motive DVD Drag Battle. KW/HP.. They're one and the same, sometimes ill quote one or the other haha. Ive made the peak power number that im comfortable running, and the car is useless like this. I prefer the car with around 400-420rwkw (540-560rwhp) as its the least 'scary' to drive and is still plenty enough to bake 3rd gear at 100kmh. Remember we're talking peak numbers here. The car still has 300rwkw at 4000rpm regardless of my peak power so yea its 'torquey'

I don't have the Spool built short motor but I purchased the 3.4 rotating assembly and had my engine builder do the work. Airflow through the head is hugely important, don't skimp on this. I personally wouldnt put cams bigger than 270 as you don't need the revs especially for street use, make sure you degree them with a dial indicator. With my 26 head and 1mm OS valves, 10.8mm lift and 260 degree procams, mine makes peak power just before 8000rpm with a broad torque curve from 3000rpm. Turbo is a 6466 with twin-scroll 1.0AR hot side. Has made over 800rwhp on 28psi but its useless at this power, I actually prefer gate pressure which is 14psi creeping to 19psi and about ~550rwhp

3L+ and the 6466 is a killer combo.. Here's what I was seeing during some early road tuning of my setup... 3.4L, 6466, 1.0AR 26psi, 3600rpm loading it in 4th... will make 5 - 6psi instantly in any gear if the revs are over 2000rpm.

The more I read about people's horror stories and being shafted by workshops or being underwhelmed by the outcomes of a build, the more I want to start building motors for people. It's not rocket science. In fact its almost common sense when it comes to choosing the correct components for the purpose or aim of your project. There is a huge wealth of information on this forum and I just don't understand how people can still be getting things so wrong.

Sounds exactly like my situation with my GTT at the moment. Cant justify $5k for a box then all the additions on top. I've gone 11.0 @ 137 and 11.3@147 through the stock 5 speed. Id go slicks but worried about breaking things.

Where does the pressure source for the wastegate come from? Ive seen similar when its taken from the manifold and not from the compressor side. Is the Haltech running Closed or Open Loop boost control? If its running Open Loop and the Base Duty table hasn't been configured correctly, it will have the exact symptoms you explain. The engine doesn't load up the same in the lower gears as it does in the higher gears where its tuned, so it uses a slightly different area of the table, which may command a lesser duty cycle on the solenoid. Closed loop boost control with a correctly set base table will alleviate this.

Back to the top. Will consider offers.

Bump. Had some interest but no one serious.

Stock input. Push clutch.

Bump. Not removing box until I have a confirmed sale.

Still here...

I'm tempted to swap a race auto into my R34 GTT, so i'm putting my whole manual conversion up as an expression of interest. The gearbox is a R33 GTST 5 Speed, with a strengthened OS Giken gearset and all of the upgraded parts to go along with it (syncros, clips etc). The box is close ratio 1 - 3. Not sure if 5th has been changed. I bought the box from a reputable workshop in Melbourne who removed it from a customer's R32 GTST after only doing a few KM of road driving. I then put it in my car where it has done about 2500km of street driving and a few runs at the drags. Car has been running about 500kw whilst in my hands. Box has only ever run Redline MT50 oil. I will be perfectly honest and say that while the box is faultless in terms of gear shifts and smoothness, it does sound like it needs the input shaft bearing checked as it whines. This has never affected the box as I mentioned, but it would be nice to fix it up while the box is out. I also have the clutch kit to go with as well. This includes an XTreme lightweight chromoly flywheel with a Jim Berry full monty clutch (r33 push setup). The clutch is less than 1500km old and hasnt had any hard launches at all as i fried the last clutch at the drags so ive babied this one. For anyone that hasnt driven a Jim Berry clutch, they are the lightest easiest to drive clutches by far. All the hardware was replaced with the new clutch, so new ARP flywheel bolts and Nissan pressure plate bolts. There's also the rest of the conversion parts to go with. Clutch master cylinder with braided line and pedal. Clutch slave. Brake pedal. Center console and shifter. Front half of tailshaft. All to suit R34 GTT. Everything listed above as complete package - $4000 or Gearbox Only - $2800 Flywheel & Clutch Only - $1000 Conversion Parts - $400

Bump. Happy to take offers.

High/low fuel pump control is hard set at 5% throttle opening (from memory). The TPS follower for the ATTESA 100% works as per factory, as does the injection duty signal to the MFD. The pre-loaded base map should be enough for you to get started with. Just make sure you load the calibration for your MAP sensor, set your TPS limits, enter your injector characteristics and deadtimes and away you go. Set base timing (i like to lock the CAS all the way clockwise) by enabling the ignition lock and adjusting the trigger angle. Dont forget to set the engine capacity, and if you're running an ethanol blend of fuel without a flex sensor, deduct ~33% from your injection flow rate to allow for the fuel density difference.