Mitchee

Sounds tough If you need a hand with the Haltech set up/install, don't hesitate to give the support line a call

Anything is possible if you know the right people. Car has NSW rego until April, 2015.

Probably more of an EOI as I didnt think I would ever sell this.. but here goes.... 1998 R34 GTT White. 2nd owner in Australia. Originally purchased by Stan 'Satanic' from North Shore Prestige as stock turbo auto car with 31,000km on it in 2006. I have a long history with this car, as Stan brought it to me to help with modding it from day 1. I dont beleive there is a bolt or wire in this car I have not touched. I purchased it from Stan in 2010 with a built auto and RB30 setup. The below build took 18 months, completed in October 2013. Car now has a genuine 81,000km on the chassis and the whole setup below is about 8000km old. Overall condition of the car is great, there is some stone chips in the paint mainly in the front of the car, and the entire vehicle could do with a cut and polish as I dont think its ever been done before. Headlights are clean and clear. There is one small dent in the passenger door. Interior condition is great, theres light 'gunking' of some of the coated plastic parts which is normal for GTT's. The front bar has a fiberglass Nismo lower lip which has seen better days. Nismo clear indicators too - front and side. For the mechanicals, im going to list as much as I can remember off the top of my head.... RB30 S2 Engine Block - Duncan Foster machined and prepped. 87mm Bore. Internally clearanced for stroker kit. New welsh plugs, grub screwed oil galleries, head stud threads tapped for RB26 studs, block face modded for high idler. Spool 3.4L 94mm Stroker Kit - 4340 Billet Crank, I-Beam Rods, CP Pistons. Blueprinted as per Spool specs. ACL Race main and big end bearings, ARP2000 main studs, L19 rod bolts, Ross balancer, Nismo engine mounts. Titan Motorsports H11 head stud kit, Tomei RB26 MLS head gasket Tomei oil pump, 1 blocked oil feed, 1 tomei restrictor in the other. Spool baffled and extended sump. RB26 Cylinder Head - releived for high lift cams, rear oil drain. Ported exhaust side, deburred intake side. Stock RB26 intake & throttles with Cometic gaskets. Supertech 1mm oversize intake and exhaust valves, Supertech guides, Supertech dual valve springs, Ti retainers. Tomei Procam 260 10.8mm in/ex cams with Tomei buckets, HKS adjustable cam gears. Mine's cam cover baffles, HiOctane catch can. HKS thermostat oil cooler kit, 40mm alloy radiator, silicon hoses throughout. 6Boost twin scroll manifold, Turbosmart 50mm ProGate, swappable screamer/plumb back. Precision 6466 Twin scroll T4 AR1.00 - 4" Dump to magnaflow mid muffler, 4" HKS Stainless catback to HKS Ti Muffler. 100mm Intercooler LS2 D585 Ignition system, mounts coil on plug. BCPR7ES plugs. Bosch EV14 2000cc injectors, Aeroflow dual entry fuel rail, Turbosmart FPR2000 fuel regulator, 200 series hose used throughout. Stock pump in-tank as lift pump, -6AN 200 Series Teflon out of the tank to undercar surge tank with 2x Bosch 044 Pumps Dual -8AN 200 series Teflon feed lines to fuel rail, single -6AN Teflon return. ZERO fuel smell in the car. ODYSSEY dry-cell mounted in the boot. Xtreme Chromo Flywheel, Jim Berry Full Monty clutch. Flywheel is doweled to the crank with three 8mm tool steel dowels. ARP flywheel bolts. R33 RB25 Gearbox with OS Giken gearset, upgraded to new style syncros as per Series 3 R33 GTR 5 speed. OS Giken 1.5way Diff HEL Braided clutch line Nismo S-Tune Suspension Whiteline front sway bar Hardrace rear camber arms HEL Braided brake lines front and rear ABS is retained and operational RDA Rotors front and rear QFM A1Rm Pads front and rear Extended wheel studs front and rear Enkei RPF-1 in SBC colour - 18x9 front 18x10 rear Haltech R34 GTT Pro Plugin ECU Haltech IQ3 Racepak GPS Datalogger Dash Haltech CAN Wideband Controller Kit Haltech Boost Control Solenoid Haltech 4Bar MAP Sensor Haltech IO12 Expander Box Haltech 6port CAN Hub Haltech Flex Fuel Sensor Haltech Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Haltech Fuel Pressure Sensor Haltech Coolant Pressure Sensor Haltech Intake Air Temperature Sensor Nismo dash cluster, Nismo Triple Gauge cluster. Dash cluster odometer was adjusted to match original odometer reading. Nardi Personal Steering Wheel. Sony touchscreen DVD head unit. The Haltech takes care of all engine duties, boost control, full flex fuel, engine protection etc. The IQ3 dash is a logger style with datalogging to microSD card. It logs all the time. Also has internal accelerometer and GPS mapping. There is a huge amount of IO left on the IO Expander which I had planned on running wheel speed into for traction control. GTT Engine harness has been modified to suit the RB26 head, TPS adapted to RB26 throttle linkage, ignition and injection harnesses made to suit. It looks stock. With an agressive tune and 29PSI boost the car has made a personal best of 614RWKW/820RWHP. However the Cometic MLS gasket in the engine at the time didnt like this much power and was leaking. I have since replaced the gasket with a Tomei item and put new Titan head studs in. The car has not been run on the high boost tune since this work was done. I drive it at least once a week with a 22psi tune in it which is about 450RWKW, plenty enough for the street and to have some fun in. I built the car for response and this has definitely been acheived. It makes over 300rwkw at 4000rpm, and builds boost whenever you put your foot down. I find myself cruising around at 60-70k's in 5th and not needing to change down gears to overtake or go up hills. Its effortless power. Full boost on the street is reached around 3500rpm.. Ive attached a datalog showing how responsive the engine is at 26psi.. With ~500rwkw the car has run an 11.0 @ 137mph at Sydney Dragway on MT ET Streets. At Cootamundra airport on a 'street' surface it ran 11.3 @ 147mph. I have plenty of pics from the most recent build here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415472-gtt034-the-second-time-around/ $34,000 ono I will not be providing joy rides to dreamers. Might be interested in swaps for a Evo X or something GTR and don't mind if there needs to be a cash adjustment either way.

Thanks. 1.0 rear, 3.4L RB26/30

My 6466 went 615rwkw on pump united, 29psi. 6766 should be capable of a similar number, if not slightly more.

PowerTune or Gas Motorsport

Just to clear up some misinformation.... Whilst some of what has been said about the Haltech's is true for the Universal Sport range, you would use a Pro Plugin ECU for any Skyline or RB application.. The Haltech Pro Plugin ECU supports MAF tuning if you want to keep it down that path. It also supports multiple user-configurable 3D table corrections against ignition, boost and fuel in addition to all the already built-in corrections. The Haltech Engine Protection strategy in the Sport and Pro ECU's can be triggered against 11 individual parameters in the ECU, with a user-configurable protection effect so you can set up anything from a soft 2500rpm fuel cut to a hard ignition cut to 0 rpm or however you see fit.

On behalf of Haltech I would like to thank Adam from JEM and all the SAUNSW execs and members for an enjoyable day. We always enjoy interacting and getting feedback from our end users and it's great catching up with you all. We also hope you enjoyed our presentation, given the opportunity Matt our Brand Manager would have been able to keep going for hours He was super excited when he found the photo of a young Adam asleep in the old Haltech offices If anyone would like to ask some post-event questions directly to us Sales & Tech guys, feel free to send them through to [email protected] with "SAU Tech Day" in the subject line and we'll get back to you as soon as possible.

You have a couple of options.. Go the Zeitronix unit and use 2xAVI's on the Haltech, but by this stage you have spent $500 and have used up 2 valuable inputs (if you have them spare - if not Haltech can mod the AVIP inputs to act as regular AVI's if you have those spare) Haltech sells a CAN IO Expander Bundle with Flex sensor for RRP$599 (haltech part HT-059906), slightly more expensive but the IO box gives you plenty of extra IO should you need it down the track (fuel/oil/coolant pressure sensors, extra temp sensors etc). You also only use a single digital input on the Haltech to get both Ethanol Content and Fuel Temperature.

See you guys Saturday

My D585's ran out of grunt at 830rwhp on 4ms dwell. I have a feeling they are china copies however Still not complaining they are amazing coils for the price I paid.

The Continental/Siemens sensors send out a digital signal where frequency is related to ethanol content, and pulsewidth is related to fuel temperature. 50hz = 0%, 150hz = 100% 1ms = -40deg, 5ms = 125deg

The R34 GTR Pro Plugin has an internal MAP sensor which can read up to 22psi boost. Fitting a 3-bar map sensor will allow up to 30psi boost. Out of the box it can use the factory intake air temperature sensor as fitted to your RB26, or you can cut and extend the existing wiring from that sensor to a new sensor (can I recommend the 1/8NPT threaded sensors Haltech sells, they are compact and work great). If not, the additional sensor can be wired into one of the two available ATI inputs on the Aux port on the rear of the Haltech. The ECU comes with the required plug and pins to crimp onto your wiring. The boost control solenoid can use the existing wiring already in the engine bay going to the stock solenoid. Cut and extend the wiring so it reaches your placement of the new solenoid as the factory position isnt ideal. Otherwise, again you can wire it separately.. One side of the boost solenoid to a DPO on the Aux port on the ECU, the other side to switched 12v (also found in the Aux port, theres a pinout diagram in the QuickStart guide that comes with the ECU, also in the ECU Manager software help pages) The Haltech WBC1 CAN Wideband Unit communicates over CANBUS to the ECU, allowing the ECU to know real-time Wideband AFR readings from the included Bosch LSU sensor. It also communicates sensor health status, heater status and fault status, allowing the ECU to ignore the readings if they are bad, or the sensor is still heating up for example. A 3rd party wideband unit would be connected via an Analog 0-5v signal which is prone to failure, and lacks the intelligence of the CANBUS unit. You'll want the Dual-Sensor WBC2 kit if you've got twin-turbos. If you have any more questions feel free to ask.

Interestingly, i know of a GTT that gets driven daily that does not have this sensor present as it broke so I unplugged it.. Has no problems at all and has never missed a beat?

Wire it to the stock wiring if it is still there. If not, 12v and a spare DPO on the Auxiliary plug on the rear of the Haltech.

Had some more dyno time last night after some much needed upgrades.. Fitted the car with a new gearbox with OS internals, OS diff and new clutch. Also re-did the breather setup in the engine bay and fitted the car with a real-time GPS tracking system I designed.. Now with 29psi and being slightly more aggressive with mixtures and timing i've passed the 800rwhp barrier with 824rwhp at ~7300rpm.

She's a beast on the road, i love it more and more each time I drive it.. Yep 3.4L kit in my R34 GTT. Upped the limiter to 8000 now. Peak power is at around 7400. The whole driveline has been upgraded so here's to hoping it doesn't break anything!

6466 + stroker = loves it. Ignition breaking down over 29 pounds so this was the limit. I think it will do for now.

PM'd

Sold

Happy to assist in freight. Can strap and wrap to a half pallet and fork load it, get a quote from E-Go or something..

Not this time unfortunately Need the cash!

R33 5 Speed box for sale. Rebuilt 12 months ago which cost $2000 by Gearbox Solutions. Got sealed bearings, new syncros etc. Has a slight whine which I'm pretty sure is input shaft bearing. Drives and shifts fine however. I split the housing off it to inspect. No signs of wear at all. Box is assembled and sealed ready to use. Comes with box, fork, bearing and carrier, nismo mount, shifter. $900 pick up Sydney. Can include R34 GTT manual conversion parts for an additional $500

Yeah, only the one decent run, stuffed the launches on the other 2 runs I got. The car is impossible to get moving in 1st as it just wheel tramps, so launching in 2nd and riding the clutch out a little iv'e found prevents that. The 60' suffers but the mph is more what i'm after than anything. I'm currently making some changes to the car to help get it moving from a stop, and ultimately make it nicer to drive. Its a full weight R34 GTT with about 500rwkw. With ~1/4 tank and me in it, its 1500kg.

Incorrect. RB25DE R32/R33 Autos have a 46/13 final drive set which is 3.538:1 ratio.