Mitchee

As per the title im after a diff out of an R33 N/A Auto, specifically the pinion and ring gear but im happy to purchase a complete diff if need be. Would prefer Sydney so I can come and pick it up. Must be 3.5:1 ratio.

New PB.. 11.0 @ 137mph 255 ET Streets. Shit 60ft as I bogged the launch. Bitch to get off the line as I was trying not to smoke the clutch... which i ended up doing on my 3rd run..

11.0 @ 137 255 ET Streets. Shit 60ft as I bogged the launch.

I have heavily dissected many R34 GTT harnesses across several cars and could probably wire one with my eyes closed. I have modded my Auto GTT harness to remove all the auto related wiring, removed traction control wiring, removed unneeded factory sensors and added in extra wiring for Oil pressure, fuel pressure and MAP sensor wiring, all while retaining ABS and it clips up to my RB26/30 as if it was stock. I run a Haltech R34 GTT plugin ECU. I have spliced an R34 25GT (non turbo) harness with a GTT harness so it was a plug in job for my girlfriends R34 that we swapped a GTT motor into. The 25GT's have a separate ABS computer and harness which I had to move into the GTT harness while removing the existing GTT ABS/TCS wiring from it. I have a pinout guide including a diagram of the large 'M53' or 'F3' plug (your 'plug 2') here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/420680-definitive-r34-gtt-wiring-pinouts/ Disregard wire color when tracing between plugs. Nissan used same coloring between devices so don't rely on this to be sure where a wire goes. There are splices and joins in wires inside harnesses also, so dont chop anything out because it may be supplying a signal to more than one other wire. Your 'Plug 1' - ABS and traction control related. The red/green twisted wires is front left wheel speed. The grey 3 core is the electric TCS butterfly position sensor wiring (i think, going off memory here). You'll need to keep most signals going to this plug if you want to retain ABS etc. Your 'Plug 2' - See my spreadsheet in the link above.. Your 'Harness 3' - ECCS and TCS relays. Brown is ECCS relay, this is an ECU controlled relay that powers everything up. It allows the ECU to shut everything down ifrequired. Blue is the throttle motor relay from memory. Your 'Harness 4' - TCS Throttle control box. This takes signals from the ABS/TCS ECU in the boot via your 'Plug 1' and also the ECU. My overall advice.. stay 2wd. Going 4wd later on will require a complete mechanical and electrical overhaul of the entire car. Chassis needs to be cut to allow for front driveshafts, you'll need to source an entire 34gtr front K frame, all of the atessa systems etc. Totally not worth it, just buy a 34GTR somehow. Converting the car to run the rb26 as 2wd is much easier. You'll need to have the sump modified to remove the diff and possibly notched so it clears the front swaybar. Use the GTT engine mounts and it will bolt right in. For electronics I would get a plug in fully programmable R34 GTT ECU, and run it with the stock GTT harness and sensors with the bits removed you don't need. This is exactly how I run my setup and it is flawless.

There's really not much to it. Use the boots and contact springs from stock coilpacks (i think i had to stretch the springs slightly), sit the coilpacks where they are happy and have good contact with the plugs, then make brackets to hold them in place. From my build thread:

RB26. Honestly the hardest part was working out how to make the brackets. If I had a tig I would weld some rod from the sides of the valley and tap a thread into them, and secure the coil packs with a bolt.

Yes. I used stock coil boots and modded springs. Currently supporting over 500rwkw

I got the precision kit and it seals perfect.

What is traction? The first 4 gears are useless on my 18's and crap tyres. With the ET Streets warm, it hooks up in 2nd and 3rd pretty well.

I completely forgot to update this thread after posting graphs in other sections of SAU. Soo, this was the result after a night on the dyno and 26psi. Still pretty safe at this point. Gonna get back to the drags on some ET Streets and then Cootamundra in May and attempt to play with the big boys.

Interesting you've had problems with the GKTech fan.. I have one on my engine and it seems to work really well. Never goes over 82deg unless its 40 outside and im sitting in peak hour traffic, even then the Haltech flicks on the A/C thermo fan at 85 and its back down below 80 in under a minute.. Is your radiator china?

530rwkw on a 6466 here. 26psi.

Dont bother with wideband sensors in manifold runners, absolutely pointless on a turbocharged vehicle. In your first post you mentioned that this issue was present on the old turbo: Is there visual signs of knock when trying more timing? Engine movement/pops of smoke out of the exhaust. Perhaps the Nistune is detecting false knock and pulling timing, giving the effect of a 'brick wall' and not taking any further ignition timing/feeling like it has low octane fuel. The similarity in the two dyno graphs also leads me to believe this may be the case also. Remember you're dealing with a factory ECU with large amounts of correction tables which may be interfering here.. Can your tuner temporarily use an alternate ECU to at least rule that out? Or have someone on a timing light during a run to confirm commanded ignition timing is actually being applied.

That looks amaaaaaazingly tough.

Spool 3.4L Kit RB26 head with 260 10.8 Procams & Supertech valvetrain 6boost & Progate 50mm Precision 6466 1.0AR TS Haltech R34 GTT Pro Plugin Bosch 2000cc, Twin 044's Caltex E70 26psi boost I have a detailed build thread in the projects section

Same setup @ 26psi and a retune

Can finally post in this thread as I was 9kw off before haha Car went 11.5@125 with 391rwkw on Nexen street tyres (heh), hope to break into a 10 and some more mph with ET Streets..

Need a stock set of injectors for a GTT Neo engine. Sydney and can pick up. Cheers.

Check out: http://www.haltech.com/product/platinum-pro-plug-in-series/nissan-r34-gt-t/

A Haltech CAN wideband kit with gauge is what you are after. Flex fuel sensor can be done but you'll need the flex/io box bundle as your ecu lacks the required input for the sensor.

You'll shit in 300kw at 4000rpm. My setup makes slightly more than that at 4000, with 260 duration cams though.

Odd communications problems when trying to program the dash. It just adds 5 extra channels to display and/or log in the dash from the Haltech. The Odo function works fine. Make sure to tell the dash what channel it is using for speed so it can calculate distance for you.

Firmware updates are different correct. The current Logger firmware is v24, and current Display is v21 (v22 exists but i've had issues with it). You can get these from Racepak or Haltech. Display firmwares aren't on the Racepak website for some reason, but updated firmware does exist you just have to request it from them. Also, if you have a Haltech dash, you can send it in to Haltech to be upgraded so that it can receive 20 concurrent channels from the ECU over the usual 15. The upgrade fee is $80.

I agree with the absence of information on the dashes.. If you purchased your Racepak products through Haltech, or you have a Haltech IQ3/Haltech ECU, you can call Haltech and get local support.

The software is no different between the Display or Logger versions. In fact I would say that the display dashes are easier to update, set up and configure than the loggers as there's less parameters you need to deal with. It is a bit 'clunky' but once its up and running and you know your way around it, its easy to work with. The Haltech IQ3's are manufactured for Haltech by Racepak and then are only programmed with a basic layout and packaged with a quick start guide by Haltech. Love my Haltech Logger Anyone feeling lost with theirs I'm happy to help. I highly recommend you hook up the two buttons so you can easily scroll through the 4 available screens and view peak data!