Jordan

Hi Skyline gurus, My 1994 R33 has been off the road since 2007. Trailered to 5 different houses since then but now its time to get it back to roadworthy so I can enjoy it again. I'm moving to an estate where I can't even change the oil in my driveway (Waterside Estate, Cranebrook, NSW) so I'm looking to be paying other people to do the work offsite for me. I'm looking for help with all of the stuff below, and a recommendation for workshops in the Penrith area who are Skyline specialists or at least very competent and able to contract to other specialists where needed. It is stock apart from bodykit and engine/clutch. The engine was built and balanced with forged pistons by Hunter Thomas Automotive in Newcastle in 2002 running 12psi and no additional mods apart from a GTR fuel pump and an upgraded clutch. Rebuilt after a broken timing chain pulley by Powerplay Imports in Drummoyne in 2005 so is no longer balanced Last start was a year ago when I tried to throw in a cheap fuel pump and got nothing but smoke and a very rough idle like at least 2 cylinders are missing. It stalled trying to rev above idle so I gave up and got it trailered. Current issues I can remember off the top of my head: Fuel Tank: $70 ebay Fuel pump (dodgy install, my fault, needs to be redone). Fuel level sender - gage constantly sitting on Empty. Varnish in fuel tank - last ran on E10 and has been sitting since thus all rubber gaskets had melted. Probably Needs complete refurbishment or replacement tank and internals Engine: Heater core leaking, currently bypassed but want to fix. Power Steering leaking, one of the banjo bolts need replacing. AC dead, leaking somewhere and needs to be located and fixed, was told the AC Compressor was replaced with a GTR oem unit at one point which doesn't fit properly. KNN Air flow pod falling apart, dry rotted foam. Exhaust has centre box rusted out, cat delete pipe with O2 fitting where the cat should be. Transmission: Clutch not releasing enough to change gears easily, spring return only so slave cylinder seals probably gone. Body: huge deep rust spot on roof behind sunroof, needs treatment or cut out and some new metal welded in. Lots of surface rust in the boot from filling up with water every time it rained and leaking boot seals. Door, sunroof, boot and window seals perished and rock hard. Internal soft touch plastics on centre console and door arm rests turned to sticky black goo. Every part of the fiberglass 400r/GTR body kit is cracked and needs repair, cosmetic mesh is loose or missing. Paint is pealing the clear coat on every panel and surface. Headlights need polishing Electronics: Wrong sized battery in boot sitting loose, OEM battery tray is missing. Loose Speaker and Amplifier random ad-hoc earth cables from 12" sub box/Amp combo. Old Viper engine immobiliser with alarm, central locking and remote start, dodgy wiring is malfunctioning and had been disconnected long ago - car will start and drive ok and lock/unlock with the key without being immobilised, but some sensors still connected and draining battery over time, car is known to try and remote start itself randomly when reconnecting battery so that circuit is still connected. Wheels and tyres: Paint pealing on all wheels and some rash in places. All 4 tyres flat spotted and dry cracks showing. I love these wheels and will never change as I have not seen another set in my travels, want to have them reconditioned/restored. When I pull the car out of the garage I will probably update this list a lot. Jordan

Hi, I'm interested, would you be able to post to 2749?

Update. 6 weeks ago I finally had to move house and the car was in the way. I bravely ordered the cheapest universal replacement pump from ebay ($80 + free delivery) and with a 2x4 plank and a mallet, hammered out the Fuel seal cap and pulled out a black sticky mess of varnished petrol and perished rubber It was worse than I though it was horrible. Yes that is the fuel seal, it had decomposed and split into a huge gooey mess.

Hi, I'm Jordan and I've got a Skyline R33 GTS-t thats been off the road since 2008. Its a little crusty and the paint is peeling but Its been my pride and joy since I finished high school. I last drove it from my old house to my current place 2 years ago where its been sitting in the driveway, but now its time to move again it again to a new place we are renting. Step one on this project is to get it running again and sus it out mechanically, and once at the new place FINALLY stick it into a garage and start working on in with a view to get it back on the road again and at least roadworthy enough to pass a blue slip inspection. I've charged up the battery on it but the old girl spins but won't fire anymore, I've noticed a that the fuel pump is not running so and this is where I need some advice! The 15A spade fuse is fine, but I can't test the relay (don't have anything to swap it with), so I'm wondering if there is a simple way to bypass the loom and inject 12v into the fuel pump directly and see if it spins up (and then luckily the engine will fire up!). Any suggestions? Will post more pics as I go

Hi Shaun, Great build thread with the Black car, was very inspiring and I like how you have done the work yourself and dealing with the rust issues head on. I am pretty inspired actually, I have one of these nuggets in our driveway which I really should do something with. I could sell it to a scrapper for 2K but it is still my pride and joy so reading you doing this is wanting me to bring it back from the dead. -Jordan

This is great. Not filled with confidence that there is no service schedule for 100k and over though I guess just return to the start again and repeat for 101,000km => 200,000km

It's the cup holder insert. You have it one way and it will hold your typical 375ml can, flip it the other way and it will then be able to hold a thin can like a Red Bull just as snuggly. Without it your cupholder is really just a square hole that won't do a very good job.

location?

I didnt know it could be too big, too small could possibly starve some of the cylinders further away right? Correct me, I'm possibly wrong.

Hey, good to see someone asking realistic prices for personalised plates. Some people see a good plate as hidden gold and charge stupid rates.

My rear goes all over the place, its more pronounced on bumps too. Its suspension related, not HICAS.

Sounds like a cool place, take some photos when you are there next so people are not in the ACT can visualise the experience

Keen to post it to Sydney?

PM Sent re seats.

Eew, I didnt know Droid made kits for Skylines. No offence to the owner of the car if they are reading this, but that rear end makes baby jesus cry.

Proton Jumbuck? Mate, you made the right move. Should have done it before the Proton though to be honest

Damn , you should see my bar! Ive had 3 years of damage build up on it Cheez, come to Sydney and help fix mine!

Wow, does that fit the turbo bottom-manifold of any RB20/25?

Gah, another one! The natural path of evolution of all skyline owners is to upgrade to a GTR! Question: Did you want, or have you desired a GTR in the same color as your previous?

Vic! Long time bro. Havent seen you post in a while. We were hard pressed for tools at the time and getting desperate, and I want to buy you a replacement plug cover if you havent done so already I should harden up and buy memebership, ay.

How is the vinyl coating on the entire dash fascia, is it wearing or pealing anywhere? I'd be surprised if it lasted 87k with no scratches.

I want to see how the spark plugs look thanks, have they been in the car already, or did you buy then find out they didnt fit or something?

I read elsewhere in a different thread that bad starting can be due to a bad earth somewhere. Essentially there is not enough amps to get it started On a side note, Another guy at work said hard starting could be something with dirty injectors and/or sucky spark plugs, taking ages to start flowing/sparking properly, but I'm going for the amp things and say battery or earth.

HID Look? What colour temprature do they claim to be (ie, how blue)?

Picsorban