Jordan

Got a few leads on Airboxes and stuff already, thanks guys. Still worried about my Cat, no one seems to have one lying around or that they can seperate for a me for a few weeks d00dz, want a racing pipe for a few weeks? Car will go hard and blow muchos flames

gonna bring any cars back as personal imports?

Cruise control kits read your speed signal and dont need to be calibrated. They will see the pulse speed when you "Set" it while driving and will aim to keep the car at that pulse rate by modulating the throttle control in the engine bay using the cable and motor/diaphram thing. It knows that going one way increaces teh speed (pulse) and the other way will decreace it, its so basically simple it can be built from scratch if you knew how to. With regards to manual or auto, its compatable on both, but you will need to wire up the safty cut-out differently. Normally in Autos it linked to the brake and also the handbrake. When you setp on the pedal or pull the hand brake it switches off and goes back to manual mode. In a manual car, it will be linked to the clutch as well as the brake and handbrake. That way it cuts off if you put your foot on the clutch to change gears.

Mine dissapeard 2 weeks after I bought it. 5 years later its still not replaced. Since it had snapped off I couldnt just get it replaced, or glued back on because then it would flip up anymore, and then there was all the hassle of getting new lock barrels, and getting them keyes back to the origional key, etc.

I'm looking at the suspension and wondering if they will fit a 33 gtst

Geez, why didnt you say the pics were in your gallery earlier??

Whats a HU? Can I get one too?

First time was at around 90,000kms. After a night of drag-racing around newcastle I woke up in the morning with Zero oil pressure and broken ring-lands. Detonation killed that one. Second time was at about 100,000k's. My sister was using it for a while. Got a call from her halfway down the freeway from Sydney and asking what the Temp guage meant when it was pointing straight up, Oh and there was a strange bubbling/boiling noise coming from the engine bay. I asked how long it had been like that for, she said the guage was like that for the last hour but the noise was new and made her worried. The Heater core broke shortly after getting it towed and spilled fluid down the passanger footwell. Got the pipes dodged up but it still had a warped head and block. This rebuild they bored out the cylinders and meant I had to fork out for a new set of forged pistons and HKS copper headgasket Third time was at about 127,000k's and I was living in sydney by then, my brother was using my car for work. He was a Courier and his car was out or rego at the time. On Miller St in North Sydney it just died and he was there for a while trying to start it and roll start it with no luck. After another tow to Powerplay they found the Tensioner for the Timing belt had just sheered and just fallen off making the belt go slack. Block was ok, Pistons were marked but still useable but the head and valves were shot. Put a new nissan gasket and rebuild kit thru it again just for the sake of it and got all the damage fixed. When I picked it up from Powerplay I had just got my licence back and I took it home and havent let it out of my clutches since. Moral? If you loose your lisence for 3 years, put the car into storage or something, up on blocks is perferable. Will cost less in the long than letting people who will just neglect basic maintennance and serviceing. Sure the Tensioner was just one of those things, but if he hadnt been there trying to keep starting it again for ages the damage wouldnt have been so bad.

I liked the Idea of having special plates for elderly drivers. I dont rememeber if that is going thru or not. Cant rememebr what state it was for either

Hey peoples. Last month I got a defect for having a pod filter in the car. Let it go for so long because I thought I would be a simple thing to fix. Nothing major, I didnt even get a yellow sticker as it was apparently just a minor category, but now that I have been calling around now it appears that because the copper put a tick in the box for "Full Inspection" when I take it to a AUVIS (Authorised Unregistered Vehicle Inspection Station for those who didnt know) to be cleared they will still be obliged to go over the whole car and ping me for whatever they find. I'm a little pee'd off because the copper assured me all they would do later is check to make sure I had a box fitted like what is written in the report when he was writing it out hence why I didnt complain so much at the time. Now there are 2 routes I can go with this. Plan A) get the car engineered. For $460 incl GST I can get the Pod, Wheels, Guages exhaust, etc officially legalised. Problem is that to Engineer the car properly they will want me to get an official RTA Emissions test down at their Botany facility because they see my engine as being modified thanks to the FMIC, normally they would just do a drive-by Decibel test. Kinda dont want to to that since I have a racing cat in there at the moment. By that I mean a bit of pipe with 2 flanges at both ends and the temp probe fitting so it hooks back into the ECU. I would need to replace that at more cost (Unless I can find a replacement 2nd hand) since the exhaust shops I have talked to dont have ones with the temp fittings, and will need to just use a universal one and get it modified to take the temp probe at a cost of $320. Then I can tell the RTA and they will cancel the Defect and I can take the Defect Notice and find the issueing officer and tell him he can take it back and shove it up his @ss, then go home feeling that much better. As you can see its starting to get expensive. Plan B) Replace my Pod and Cat and let the AUVIS inspect me and hope they dont find anything else. So either way I need to source a factory Airbox and a standard Cat. If anyone has some they can sell for cheap-cheap, or better still let me use for a while, then I can implement Plan B then I return them later after visiting the AUVIS. If you are in the Sydney area and can help me then I will come to you to pickup and also to return just to make it easier, I dont mind driving out to central coast (or equiv. distance) if its necessary. Oh, and before I forget and I get flamed, its for a R33 Series-I GTS-t.

If you were just reffering to new dial face inserts with numbers printed on them, then I would be worried. What Al said, if its the whole speedo assembly in the dash that comes out and is replaced then the correction should be built into it.

Do the door trims come with all the switchgear?

I saw a R33 GTR Series-II engine at Powerplay in Sydney here for 8.5k. Thats how much it cost me to rebuild mine after broken ringlands and scored bores. But I did opt for Forged pistons and getting the bottom end blueprinted and balanced. Sad thing is it didnt actually go any better when I got it back

I have a defect standing for having an air pod. Now I have to run around today and find a replacement air box so I can take it to an AUVIS station somewhere (Where I'm afraid they will get me for 1000 other dumb things because the cop ticked "full inspection required" on the notice I got) and get it inspected, then take the form to the RTA and get it cleared. I want to know if it will just be easier to just get it engineered and contest the defect and clear it straight away at the RTA.

157,305 - rebuilt 3 times already. But only because it needed it the 1st time, the other 2 were stupid things that happened while It was in the less than capable hands of family members.

Deftinatly go in with the gear shifter, so easy Make sure you have some circlip pliers (the inner diameter squeeze-together type) cause youll need them. Last time I changed my box oil I used Castrol VMX80 with a tube of that Nulon additive that is supposed to work wonders. I made the mistake of putting in the Nulon first before the oil. Its the consistency of hemmaroid cream and I think its all sitting stuck to the botom and sides of the casing and not getting mixed in with the oil itself. Anyways despite all the hype my box still feels crap-tastic

Exhaust, need a quiet one. How loud is it? I'll PM you later tonight.

what color is the RH Front guard?

Um, I use power steering fluid in mine. Failing that then I grab some ATF and use that.

Both, Go electronic for the Oil, and Mechanical for the Boost. A good aftermarket oil guage can read off your stock pressure sensor, or will include a replacement that can be fitted in the stock ones location. The levels of vacume/boost that you are dealing with are pretty small so you arent in any danger of, say, being sucked into the turbo and killed. The stock boost guage in the dash of a R33gtst is mechanical I think, I tapped into the vacuume line coming up to the bottom of the dash inside the cabin for my A'pexi EL boost guage. responsive wise, when my foot moves on the accellerator, the A'pexi moves instantly. Its miles ahead in responsiveness than the stock dash guage which lags behind. For example, at idle and looking at the dash instruments when I rev the car. The A'pexi guage responds first, then the tacho flicks up, the oil guage quivers for a second, and lastly, the stock boost guage sluggishly decides to respond. The drawbacks of mechanical as opposed to electric that I know of is that Mechanical guages might become less trustworthy after a few (3 or 4) years of use and might need to be recalibrated by professionals. Oh, and lastly. My preference is on a $300 Jap-branded guage which is super responsive over a $130 Autometer. Sure its cheaper, but in my experience they are slow and sluggish to respond, much like the stock guages

drift damage?

Swap it out for someones horn that works and see if your horn disk itself is stuffed

broken timing belt tensioner = engine rebuild. I suggest getting it looked at properly.

I think it probably got worn down because of all those times I took it to Powerplay