Jordan

depending on how low your car is and what equiptment the shop will use, you might not have a choice. Last time I had an alignment they had to take off the front bat (400r) and drop my exhaust pipe because the lazers they used wouldnt go low enough. Im lucky they didnt have to take the sideskirts off otherwise they wouldnt have done it. <== gallery if you want to compare lowness.

They are all run off the one pump. Get a pin and stick it in the washer jet that isnt working. You probably have a blockage.

... right.

I lost my lock cover 2 weeks after getting the car, been that way for the last 5 years

I dont understand, if its a replacemement pipe, why will my standard pipe be changed? Oh, I take it that my current pipe is all rubber, so I will have to trim the ends off it and use them to attach to the rest of the system? (My car is downstars at work, I will check it out later today and it should make sense) I take it that it will change the induction noise somehow, in what way exactly?

The Passenger side? Make sure its not the Powersteering fluid leaking onto it and making it look like its busted.

you need a price dude

nice, this has been bugging me for ages. The switch feels loose and dosent press proprely. Will make the window go down no worries but I have to bash it a bit to get the switch to let it come back up again. I'll pull it apart later today

Wasnt there a kit around somewhere that would do the same thing for a R33?

Your willing to trade? ... Check my gallery for pics Its a 33 gtst with engine mods, everything you would want done save for turbo, fuel, and computer

The pocket itself is a generic thing, you should be able to find them at Stereo shops and also maybe at Autobarn or Supercheap if you are lucky.

Use a Crossover cable, if you were using a hub/switch then you could use 2 normal straight-thru cables to each.

Just got a set of Ferodo BD1165z (made in thailand) front pads for a "R33 Skyline" They dont fit my gtst, the shape of the pad material is the same, but there is no backing plate with the locating holes. Must be for the 4 stud GTS non-turbo Back to supercheap I go ==>

a 3 x stronger belt wont help you if one of the tensioners snap off (Mine did, needed a full rebuild) See if you can check yours while the belt is out. Not too sure if it was the bearing that failed but the whole thing sheared off and was sitting at the botom of the cavity.

Responsive? I would think a HKS 2530/2535 would give you less of a ski-jump on the dyno.

I also recomment Powerplay, Alistair is a champ and very genuine. But for djd00dz its on the otherside of the city. Closest to Maroubra that I knew off used to be Full Lock in Alexandria but they closed up and dissapeared years ago

No such thing as a RSMII http://www.modyourcar.com.au/product_info....roducts_id=3228

yeah I rememebr that one, saying that there was a time before the importing craze/hype that most people needed to PAY MONEY for wreckers to take their cars for recycling. Space being a premium the wreckers couldnt obviously take everything and the japanese people being so nice and environmentally conscious didnt want to dump them into the ocean (or something) so they would just leave them outside the wreckers in the middle of the night with the keys in them and piss off. But now the market is such that that would never be the case again.

If they are brand new of course there will be no rust. But what about in 10 years time?

might be a floppy disk media mp3 player

I bet they wont if they cant tell if it has front end damage more pics?

Fulcrum = pivot point for a simple lever system

I think some of your latches inside the door are jamming against eachother. I had this one with my passenger side door. Pretty much take the interior door trim off and see where its binding. Failing that you can unlatch the lock by pulling on the corresponding rod while the trim is off so you dont get locked in all the time

I have a engine with 8k worth of bottom end mods, oversize forged pistons, same HKS headgasket, grub-screwed crankshaft, all internals balanced and bluprinted. Rebuilt only last October by Powerplay in Sydney. Will trade engines (no cash adjustment) with you if you want, pm me.

Already have 1 turbo, AFM and Pod, FMIC and full exhaust. The only big cost is fabricating the new manifold, inlet pipes, and dump pipes that go to my Cat. The ECU dosent control the Turbos, they are just pressure pumps. Stuff like Injectors can be 2nd hand GT-R. I'll want a new fuel pump and a piggyback chip (fuel only) the hardest part I imagine will be making 2 AFM's read as 1 to the standard ECU as I doubt that it will able to manage 2 seperate sensors like a GT-R ECU would. Dont see why it couldnt be done for about $5k all up, cheaper than a GT-R engine swap. (I already have forged pistons and a rebuilt/balanced bottom end I wonder if Nissan marketing made the call to make the GT-R and GTS-t intakes, throttlebodies, exhaust manifolds, heads/blocks, etc non-interchangeable. Probably to stop stuff like this happening.