Sk0pe

OK, but surely there are other specs that matter, other than the flange?

Thanks mate, does that mean it is the T28 turbo? I might be able to find specs on that...

Hi guys, It has been a while Life is busy... Anyway, I need to replace the turbo on my Stag - the original is whining like a jet about to take off. Unfortunately, the cash is just not there for a serious upgrade, so I am looking to replace the turbo with something pretty stock, that will involve nothing more than bolting in and fitting up. I don't want to have to worry about wrong intake/outlet diameters etc, so can anyone tell me what the specs are that MUST be right to make this as simple as possible? And any idea what I should get? I just enjoy driving my Stag, I ain't a mechanic or a fanatic, so I really have very little idea. TIA, and, it's good to be back, even if it is for the wrong reason... Sk0pe

Hmm, I have that weekend off. I'll have a chat to the missus and make sure she hasn't got anything else lined up.

Thanks for all the help guys. I have done as suggested, and checked fuses, relays etc. I was unable to find a RELAY labelled IGN, but there was a 30A fuse in the engine bay fuse box which I swapped with another to check (both looked ok). My mate (who is an electrician) offered to help me out, and he figured out that there was actually no power getting to that IGN fuse. He hooked up a wire directly from the positive battery terminal to the terminal that fuse plugs into, and lo-and-behold, I can now start and drive the car. It's basic fuctionality only - no accessories (air-con, stereo). Interestingly, the headlights don't work, but the parkers and fog lights do. Also, the car is permanently in 4WD, with the dash light on. So, any ideas/wiring diagrams/suggestions out there? Obviously I am only driving the car in ABSOLUTE emergencies, and the wire is unhooked from the fuse box whenever the car is not being used.

That could be it. Would that relay failing cause the car to shut down? Or could the relay have died as a result of the power problem? Is this relay near the firewall on the drivers side?

Hi guys, It's been a while since I got on here... life has been really hectic. Anyway, I now am in dire need of some help. Driving into a shopping centre car park today, the head lights came on as it got dark under cover, and without warning the car immediately shut down. The alarm came on and I could not turn the alarm off or restart the car. Almost straight atway, the alarm started sounding sick, as in weird pitch shifting down, almost as if it was draining a battery... OK, sounds like either the immobiliser/alarm has carked it, or I need a new battery, with the alternator as another possibility. Hazards on, they work, the key alert works, lights seem to work (parkers anyway). I called the guys who installed the alarm, and since they are about 5 min down the road, an installer came out to check if it was the alarm causing the problem. He pulled out the control box and rewired it so the alarm was now removed from the system, and should work normally. Tried to start, no luck. No lights on the dash, the engine doesn't turn over or anything. Hazards etc still work. Replaced the battery, and same deal! No dash lights, no activity from the engine bay. Now, please help me with my logic here. I have checked relevant fuses, there is a new battery, and the alarm is (supposedly) out of the picture. What the hell else could this be?? The car is still in the car park, and I have a massive weekend of work ahead, so I really need to get this sorted today if I can. Thanks in advance guys.

Well, my tie rod end is in. That's not too bad. Hornsby Nissan had it in just over a week. I guess I can deal with that. Total including delivery $99.71. Now I can get the car rego'd (thank GOD)

Yeah, that'd be nice. I got the inspection done at the place I always go, but the bloke who normally checks it wasn't there. This other guys gave me feelings of "shiftiness", i.e. I feel like I've been ripped off. Unfortunately, I don't have time to go somewhere else and get it double checked just yet, plus IIRC, you MUST go back to the same inspection point once the repairs have been made. Anyway, this guy says he can't pass it, even if I book it in with him to do the repair. Tool.

Does anyone know where I might get one of these (4852023U26) apart from Nissan? Apparently no one (from Nissan) has one in Australia, and it will take 2 weeks to get from Japan. Unfortunately, my rego runs out before then.

Thanks... search not working properly didn't help.

Hi guys, Pink slip inspection failed as I need a RHS Tie rod end. I have NFI what one of those is, how much it will cost, where I might get one (apart from Nissan) and how hard it will be to replace. Can someone with FAST please try to check out what it is? Does anyone know if this will be something that could be the same in an R33 GTs-T? ANY info at all would be greatly appreciated. Sk0pe

I'm 28, married, 1 year old son, no dogs. I had a subie wagon (Liberty) and bought the Stage as a perfect compromise. Wagon for space, 25det engine for fun, and power to tow the business trailer. (Note the shameless plug there!) No knee reco's either!

Hmmm, spark plugs. Well, I've had the car for about 4000kms now, so I'm about to do an oil change (one was done just before I picked it up) so I guess sparkies isn't too hard. They're under that black strip right? They've gotta be easier to replace there than on my damn subie. Friggin' horizontally opposed engines mean you gotta be a bloody contortionist to swap the plugs. I'm planning on using coppers, as SK repeatedly endorses them over the more expensive platinum or iridium... Is there any need to reset the ECU again, or should it work it out from the O2 sensor output? The DFA is on the cards in the near future too.

It has now been a couple of weeks since I replaced the O2 sensor, and the results are in. 1. Idle is now smooth and consistent. Cold-start, warm start, traffic... all nice. 2. Fuel economy is marginally better, if at all. I'm still churning through fuel, regardless of how I drive. AC makes a small difference. As described above, I reset the ECU at the time of the sensor replacement. Where do I go now? The only thing I can think of to improve economy is the DFA from Jaycar. Either that or buy a scooter to get to and from work. Where else can I turn? Sk0pe

Good luck with the sale. If you feel the need to return the exhaust to stock, I'll happily take the 3" off your hands BTW: How much would a manual conversion cost, and is this something you would do for another Stag owner? Or do you only do it on your own cars?

Quite possibly mine. You don't feel the need to return to stock exhaust do you? I'd happily take that 3" off your hands. On another note, how much would it cost to do a manual conversion the same as yours? And is this a service you would offer?

This is the best looking stag I have seen so far (the black one) and another interesting specimen.

Damn. Damdamdamdamn. If only you had been selling 4 months ago. I'm on the coast too, and would LOVE that car. It's identical to mine on the outside - except for sunroofs. Dammit. Ahh... now my day is gonna SUCK. It's a friggin MANUAL.

It certainly seems worthwhile. If the current indications continue, the fuel cost savings will pay for the new sensor in about 3 weeks. Of course, there were other costs, such as bullet plugs and penetrating oil, but these aren't really exclusive costs related solely to this work. I.e. I have extra that I can use in the future. Tools used in the process: 22mm open ended spanner Phillips head screwdriver Wire cutter/stripper/crimper Head mounted torch Penetrating oil (non-kerosene base)

On the weekend just gone, I replaced my O2 sensor. I used an ACA branded one listed for the EL ford, purchased from Repco. I'll get the part number tonight if I still have the packaging. It cost me $89.90, and I had to cut off the ford plug and attach the nissan plug from the old sensor. I used bullet connectors to attach the wires, as solder won't work with stainless steel wire. I reset the ECU (using the battery disconnect method) and let the car run for about 30 minutes on first start. About 3-4 minutes after I first started the car, there was some strange light-coloured smoke, but no spatter from the exhaust. Perhaps the smoke was the result of the penetrating oil I used to get the old sensor out. Regardless, the smoke disappeared after about 10 minutes and has not returned. The only other problem I encountered was when I removed the bracket the sensor plug is attached to. The head snapped off the bolt attaching it to the turbo heat shield. I KNEW I should have waited a couple more minutes after putting the penetrating oil on. It was interesting to note, that an identical ACA sensor, listed as "universal", cost $115. The only difference between the universal and the ford compatible sensor was the plug - the universal didn't have one. I'm still on my first full tank of fuel since the replacement, so I cannot give you definitive figures, but so far it seems that my fuel consumption has gone from 17-18L/100km to around 13L/100km. The most noticeable difference with the new sensor is the idle control, especially on a cold start. Instead of hunting, the idle now goes straight to about 1100rpm when cold or 700 rpm when warm. I previously had idle hunt issues when in traffic; now it's smooth all the time. Lovely. I haven't really noticed any change in throttle response or performance. Maybe I will see a small difference on the GTech meter next time I do a run.

Gotcha, thanks. It seems I was searching the wrong sections... :Oops: BTW: did you notice any effects/improvements?

Hmmm, does anyone know anything about the oxygen sensor? Please?

I'm having some serious issues with my fuel economy, and since the car is a couple of thousand k's short of "the ton" was wondering if replacing the std O2 sensor might not help. What type of sensor should I be looking at? Any specs? Number of wires etc would be handy too Thanks Sk0pe

I always find it incredible how factory and aftermarket installed splits have the tweeters near the a-pillars. From a sound engineering point of view, this is far from optimum. Simple physics tells you you should have the tweeters as close to the matched midrange speakers as possible. That is why I installed mine in the doors...