No pics at the moment both shells are bare getting ready for paint. Both been on the back burner for the last 6 months due to being busy at work. Will get some up when I start tinkering again.
Damo, go the RPF01's they are nice. Why the hate for the XT7's?
got 2x 32 builds going. Shitter is LS powered for track work, cammed, new tr6060 box with upgraded synchros, nismo lsd, AGI cage and basic suspension goodies.
No 2 is my good one, 26/32, gt42, t400, gtr rear etc etc, 7yr build so far
Bit of advice, pay someone to do it. A shit tonnes easier, it gets done right the first time and properly, and all those people that offer to help but not show up on the day and it takes you 5 weeks to put it up (may have happened to me)
That's about right for a shed of that size. My 9x6.5x3.6 was 15k for just the kit, then 6k for concrete (I only did half pad at 200mm for my hoist), then I installed it which was a pain in itself
I've messaged Christian regarding this, those mods have had access removed for not being on for so long.
I look after the for sale section and have asked for more access to get it going.
No need for an inline thermostat with autos unless you live where it is really cold
If you do fit one make sure it has a bypass until it warms up otherwise you'll starve the rear planetry of oil and damage it
The penrite lsd range come with the friction modifier already in it.
Use the 8090 in penrite which is equal to ls90, OR I use LS140 in kaaz units and it works a treat. DO NOT GO OVERBOARD ON THE FRICTION MODIFIER, too much will f**k it
I pulled apart a diff in a car as customer complained of a grinding noise. Pulled the rear cover off and there was a bolt floating around that isn't even from the car
unfortunately it'll be a head off job dude. Because of where it is broken makes it near on impossible to get anything in there.
This is why it pays to put a dob of never seize or grease on the threads every plug change
3 springs will fall out. Get yourself some Vaseline/petroleum jelly, it will help sticking the balls into the valve body and put a lump on each springs to help hold it in the accumulators when you put it back together
That kit there won't sharpen the shifts up to much it will still be comfortable to drive.
When you lower the valve body be aware of the accumulator springs that sit on top of the valve body. Try not to mix them up. Make sure you follow the instructions to the Tee. It's easy to put on valve/spring in backwards/wrong spot