turboedsloth

pics of throttle body? will you send to wa?

ahhh k then ignore my interest then please

pics dont work chief. is the kit to suit a coupe?

ah ok if you say so.. in that case you need a 20 auto tailshaft, speedo adaption somehow, all mounts and i would be making sure the torque converter bolts onto the flexplate on the back of the 30. if it doesnt i would be getting one for a 20. just out of curiousity do you have the holden 4n71b behind the 30 atm and is the 20 box a RE4R01A?? if you dont know wat i am talking about post some pics of what you have.

why do you want to put that auto onto the rb30?

bubba, yeah i can do more for ya. am located in bunbury tho. you can use fine valve lapping paste to lap the synchro back into the cone but if its to worn its just a waste of time and you'd be better off with new synchros

yeah i am.

probly only about 400hp. am currently talking to my tuner about building up a 25 atm and am getting an idea on the fuel system, have a bosch 040 intank atm but will be using that to feed a works engineering surge tank into 800cc inj

Just wondering if anyone out there has had any experience with SARD fuel pumps, the one i'm looking at is an intank pump 52mm in diameter and flows 280 lts/hr at 3bar(44.1psi) Any feedback is appreciated

are any of the plugs that go into the coil packs broken?

i bought an unknown condition 25t box over here in WA for $300. pulled it apart it had signs of water being inside but other than that im sticking a kit an sychros through it which cost twice the price of the box

whats the difference between the nitto and N1 pump?

if thats a reco price i would be sending the box away to get done. the person doing the rebuild for you can check the synchros when its apart and replace more than one if required

also before the exedy i had an extreme puk clutch and didnt like the driveability of it. the mate i gave to however loved it

i did the same thing to my exedy granthem. called exedy up and they recommended i start using a twin plate for my 310 odd hp

go to an automatic transmission shop and see if they can match it up to anything they have lying around ie patrol or terrano

it doesnt matter wat way the oil goes in or out of your B an M cooler

what do you want to change it to? or do you just want to rip it out from under the car?

this is the clutch pedal out of my 32. the spot welds im pointing to are possibly broken on yours. its bolted in three spots, 2 bolts go through your firewall and hold the clutch master on, the third is under the dash you can get to it with a 3/8 rachet small extension an 12mm socket. there is also a clevis pin that is in the pedal that you will need to pull out, its for your master cylinder rod. once the box is out you can either TIG or MIG weld it or buy a 2nd hand unit, or if your prepared to wait a few days get a nismo one from nengun or other supplier pedalbox.pdf

i wouldnt be driving it if you dont wana break anything. get your mechanic friend around again to look at her

toyota cressida or an xf falcon wagon

did he rebuild it or just replace it with a 2nd hand unit?

i havent bought anything yet. i want to know what i need to order before i actually do, want to get inj that flow around the 700cc mark that'll go into the plenum and then get the rail to suit

so i should be looking at some 26 top feed injectors plus the resistor if i retain my standard computer system. Does anyone know if standalone ECU's take both low an high impedence without much hassle?

Hi peoples, I'm in the process of building up a 25 and am going to be using a greddy plenum and one of there fuel rails. Just wondering on what injectors other people are using wih the same setup. Cheers