turboedsloth

theres a place in malaga you should get to look at the diff, ring allfast torque converters and ask simon what his shop name is in malaga and go and talk to him. simon part owns allfast and this other workshop and knows his stuff, it might just be the bearings to tell if your c/w an pinion are noisy they will give a crap reading when you've put it back together then they should give you the choice of replacing it or not or if there is noticable damage to the unit they should also tell you

ive installed a drivetech oil cooler on my car, with remote filter and all the usual gear, i also got a drivetech oil thermostat with it all. i didnt get any instructions with the thing and i was wondering if anyone has installed one of these on their cars. i dont wana route it in wrong an bugger everything up. Cheers

^^thats what i did but my boss is satan and doesnt let me use the workshop for personal use. hoists are cheap as now 3.5k for a new 2 post 4 tonne hoist. say 5k for a shed and wollah instant workshop in your backyard

4th gear just goes straight through the gearset as the selector hub connects the input an output shaft together hence why the ratio is usually 1:1

is it $80 for 20 wheel nuts and as above with the lock nut question?

no worries. i had a silvia come into my workshop once after some backyard mechanic did a clutch swap, vibration at 100km/h- tailshaft was loose all the bolts were finger tight

the throw out bearing makes a noise when its disengaged. its because theres either a bit of crap in the bearing or its running dry because it wasnt greased properly. a thrust bearing comes in the clutch kit or at least one should as its supposed to be replaced with the clutch. as for the inner workings of the gearbox, with the clutch pedal out the input shaft is turning which is also turning the cluster shaft along with all the actual gears as they run on bearings, the cluster shaft throws oil around lubricating everything so it doesnt seize, when you push the clutch in it slows the input shaft down so you can select a gear easier. the selector hubs are splined onto the output shaft and only move back an forth when you move the selector. the cluster bearings and input bearings mainly make noise in 1st,2nd,3rd and 5th when under load. in 4th there isnt much load as it all goes straight through the input shaft out the output shaft instead of going through the cluster aswell. hope this sorta helps

was the flywheel machined properly? wat sort of clutch was installed? was the tailshaft done up properly? is the crossmember rubber mount done up properly? the 2 little bolts in the middle of the crossmember get forgotten about alot

did you top the brake fluid up before you changed the pads?

i had mine parked across the road from the pub the night i had bought it an come out to find someone rubbing there belt head up an down my front quarter panel. this shit happens chief its just an excuse to get body work an painting done

see if you can borrow a right angled drill from somewhere, drill the studs, spray some loctite freeze an release and extract with an easy out. worked for me

hey people, i bought some RG braided brake lines about a year ago and with the car sitting in the shed waiting for a manifold i decided to fit them. does anyone else on here have RG braided brake lines on there car? do they feel like any other braided brake line or are they shit? Cheers

no worries. as a side note i wash manual and automatic gearbox and diff parts in this stuff and have never had a problem so i dont see why engine parts would be any different.

ive never heard of cbc also. i use timken bearings with france or usa branded on them. ive found the ones with korea on them to be shit

in that case i dare say they'd be fine for a bit. before installing get the flywheel an pressure plate machined so they work properly unless they look like new atm

hmm i'm in the 5-8k bracket atm on top of purchase price. had the car nearly 2 years but has been in my shed for the last 6 months while i wait for parts an that. should be tuned an doin track days in bout 2 weeks hopefully

haha yeah it is. i did it last time i put a new clutch in my car. marked the boot with a big fat white F for next time

we buy it from leader lubricants or some business like that in perth. before that we bought it from fuchs. ive been using it for 5 years now all it does is dry your hands out but if your use that hand blocker cream or moisturiser or wash your hands with natural soap its ok. when its really dirty it makes my hands itchy. in winter its f**ked to use cos it just soaks in the cold and in summer it evaporates heaps quick. as i said in an above post DO NOT USE IF YOU GET SKIN IRRITATIONS EASILY..

can we get a thread up on recomended oils to use in gearboxs, vlsd and mechanical lsds. say in my gearbox i use fuchs 75/90 because i found the redline shockproof crap and in my kaaz 2 way i use fuchs ls140 with ford motorsport additive. i notice alot of people use castrol syntrax and find it good

just go an get genuine nissan. you'll be getting the right ones then

can u get just new discs for it? wat thickness are the current ones. 0% is nothing left on the plate or when it starts slipping bad

dang it i was gona write that. if its popping out of 1st, 3rd an 5th turn the boot round 180degrees

R55 solvent you can get from most oil companies. we buy it in 44 galon drums and it costs bout $4 a litre. we also have a parts washer at work an use a water an hvy duty soap to wash stuff an that comes up pretty clean also

i use R55 solvent. it cleans really good and dries almost instantly and then you can pretty much eat off the product you've washed. if you get dermatitis or other skin irritations but DO NOT USE IT it'l f**k your hands up. then if its gona sit for a while light coat of oil

i use fuchs ls140 with additive and have had no problems for 3 years. redline is apparently bad for mechanical diffs aswell. change it an see how it reacts