rad100

coz mines gonna see some limiter loving come june 19th drift prac! and im just making a $200 sacrifice to save my engine.. i did read that unless u have a aftermarket oil pump u dont really need to do the external oil drain.. the baffles should be fine with a catch can setup..

i knnow fitting restictors and doing internal mods but shaun said not to worry unless your rebuilding.. i have mines cam baffles and 26 covers which will help.. all built engines i have read in the FI have had this mod done!

why wouldnt they? there draining oil from the head back to the sump.. not gonna hinder it!

need to fit one of these http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...roducts_id=7216 and my rb26 rocker covers and mines cam baffles and also my plazmaman plenum!

is it easier to remove and engine with or without the gearbox attached? need to put a oil drain in the rear of the head.. and cant do it with the engine in.. anyone wanna help?

yeh his mate bought a 31 and put mikes old engine (fully built rb20det) in it running a 3540 making 320rwkw.. there just starting a rb30 r31 with a to4z! and they also turbo'd a cherade until it pushed a rod through the block haha!

yeh its a fair work of art.. full built auto, cage, i think its got a 10ltre tank.. one run and needs to fill up..

um there vork ravs... COPIES! not volk

yep, NA 2jz wit gt42 shot of nos, e85, 35psi!! all for a little exhaust shop!

so my mates engine i posted up, from what i read all i would need to change would be the pistons and rods to a stronger unit for higher revs and add a blancer, sump and oil restrictors.. sound about right?

WTB rb25det BLOCK. with or without pistons, rods, crank etc..

hey all, i have a set of TE37 in white with volk stickers. sizes: 18x8.5 +30ish and 18x9.5 +30ish tyres are 235/40/18 all round.. rears are 95% fronts are 80% they are very good condition except 1 wheel has VERY light rash.. sit perfect on a r32 gtst. they dont rub anywhere on the front and car is quite low.. rears dont rub but i do have rolled guards.. $2200 FIRM.. or trade for 18x9.5+20 xt7 cheers

hey all, i have a set of TE37 in white with volk stickers. sizes: 18x8.5 +30ish and 18x9.5 +30ish tyres are 235/40/18 all round.. rears are 95% fronts are 80% they are very good condition except 1 wheel has VERY light rash.. sit perfect on a r32 gtst. they dont rub anywhere on the front and car is quite low.. rears dont rub but i do have rolled guards.. $2200 FIRM.. or trade for 18x9.5+20 xt7 cheers

yeah i have 740cc already... and yeh his list is good but he wasnt tracking the car from what i could see.. so if there is anything else i would need ontop of his to help with a track scenario..

too easy!

yeh i have oil cooler and relo kit and aloy rad.. engine is fine but im looking at slowly starting a collection of parts so when i does come time for a rebuild i have everything here and instead of paying 10k at once ill only have to pay for labour..

anyone?

dont wanna trade for white TE37 18x8.5 +30 and 18x9.5 +30 with new tyres on the rear and 80% on front?

was also thinking of doing what my mate did.. specs: Fully balanced Arp main studs Arp head studs Acl bearings Acl 1.2mm head gasket Ross/acl pistons Argo rods Adj cam gears its really all the small stuff like oil restrictors, head porting, harmonic balancers etc.. just want it all safe for the track.

hey all.. im planing on rebuilding my rb25det to forged internals.. the car see's track time every now and then. so want something that can handle revs etc etc. i have read throught Nytsky's build thread and also looked at spools website and a couple of others.. now what im not sure on is what parts i need to gather before i send them and the engine off to get built.. i know pistons, rods, bolts, gaskets... im looking at spool or nitto rods, cp pistons, genuine gasket kit, arp bolts .. are these good? what else would i need to see my engine to be reliable at the track.. i want to have the rear oil drian. also looking at the nitto oil pump item.. any work should be done to the head? should i use nissan bearings or other? and around the 350rwkw mark and possilbe e85.. and to take some revs i have atm ready to go on, plazmaman plenum, tomei poncams, splitfires, gt3076 .82 with ext gate, nistune ecu, z32, rb26 rocker covers and mines cam baffles, cam gears.. any further info/advice would be good..

yeh i was reading and found the results not to be too bad.. going to go look at the motor and possibly purchase it.. fit my cams, plenum, turbo etc... and dale i love my eboost... would never let it go!

also have the thought that it was done when engine was cold so pistons and stuff still needed to expand etc.. specs: Fully balanced Arp main studs Arp head studs Acl bearings Acl 1.2mm head gasket Ross/acl pistons Argo rods Adj cam gears Gates timing belt Has a rb20 exhaust cam on the intake to take the vct off Was built with all new Nissan bolts, gaskets, seals

how is this for a comp test on a forged rb25det? was done in the cold.. 1. 145 2. 137 3. 140 4. 135 5. 145 6. 145

hey all.. im looking at buying a forged rb25det S1 long motor.. now it doesnt come with coilpacks.. my rb25det i have now has splitfires and plazmaman plenum... can i use the rb25 S2 coilpacks and swap over the coilpack loom? are the intake manifolds the same for both rb25 s1 and s2? cheers

where does a hks 2510 sit in the equation? from what i can find and my lack of turbo knowledge i think they rate somewhere between the -5 and -9????? anyone know?