180bfj20det

Strip it. Cage it. No more problems. Time attack.

I have had the pleasure of hearing this engine up-close. Youtube does not do it justice!

Thanks Chris. Ill hit em up sometime soon.

Thanks for the response. Sorry I wasnt clear. I already have the car imported under the personal import scheme (well I bought it off a mate who imported it and who Im still in contact with). So to clear it up, the car is here in Aus. I have 4 documents: (1) One that authorises personal import plate (2) Document of compliance (to be completed by compliar) to be given to transport authority (3) Owner's document of compliance (same as 2, except kept by owner) (4) Customs clearance document (states import approval is granted) Compliance needs to be done before personal import plate can be granted. So I guess from what you say I can keep my mods and take it to an engineer. Where can one take such a car to on teh gold coast?

Reading through other's posts through the search function, Im confused between personal import and other types of import schemes and how to comply them. My car is a s12 silvia Japan version bought in from NZ as a personal import. Have all the documentation to get it complied but have no idea where to start. Can I keep my mods on this car (full roll cage including side bars, racing seats, 35r turbo, aftermarket management...) or does it need to be returned to standard? What else is needed to get it complied? Last of all, where can I take it to for compliance (Gold coast area) and how much does this cost? My apologies if this duplicates other's questions.

Yeah, for sure, those figures dont lie. Good hp. 100kg....I can race it for you Im 60

What is the weight of the car when you go to the track? Cheers

Im sure hes talking OD with a thickness of about 4mm if hes using steampipe bends (im assuming). You want about an ID of about 36-40mm. If youre using 2x 3076, then I would go for 40mm. Use 40NB bends. Just out of interest, what are the head mods? Whats your goal? Sounds like a big hp setup

Anyway news on the full race testing disco?

On the dyno the other day I saw one of these chinese cooler kits also leaking at the cooler piping. It turns out the piping is not round where the silicon joiners go (in this instance it was at the drivers side intercooler piping to the cooler itself). Ended up zip-tying the extremity of the silicon after the clamp and worked wonders to hold 30 psi in the SR20. Check for ovality. BF

Sure was.... As you state above, its 1+4 and 2-3. Agree with you on the rest.

Almost the same as above. I have a 14psi spring in my tial 46mm gate. I hook it up to the compressor and it only opens at 28psi (fully opens that is). However, applying slight pressure to the gate piston with my thumb at about 20 psi, it opens up fine and probaly would at 14 psi, cant remember if I tired or not. So its really quite normal (the gate not opening until a higher than expected pressure) if you do not apply pressure the gate also at the piston thereby mimicking exhaust back pressure, the latter is certainly going apply more pressure than your thumb. BF

Exactly. I am for this very reason designing several prototype manifolds which will use a single twin scroll turbo and not less than two gates. Same reasoning as discos, completely seperating certain exhaust events (in my case 1-4 and 3-4). Balance tubes or not having a splitter/divider seperating scrolls all the way up to the gate piston negates in almost everyway having a twin scroll system or in the case of a gtr, seperating 123 and 456. Peace

Wind the ign timing back 10 degrees. Thatll take power out :laughing-smiley-014: Probs the easiest and you dont need to take a hell of a lot (i was kidding with -10) to decrease the power considerably. Just watch the engine temperature. Pig to drive tho off boost. Controlling boost is the best option tho but at least you know you can do something else.

Indeed I am!!!!!!! I got confused with the rb25 which is best at 0 as per SK post below.... Great thread guys. I just need to clear something up here, I have used the Tomei 256/260 Poncams in 2 X RB25's, one Neo in an R34GTT and one non Neo in an R33 GTST. Neither of them benefitted from having an adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley, they both made their best average power at zero degrees adjustment. The Poncams work very well with the VVT, I kept it, so no adjustable inlet camshaft pulley. This has not been my experience with GTR's, they ALWAYS benefit from adjustable inlet and exhaust camshaft pulleys. The more extensive the mods, the more they benefit and no two engines are the same. Hope that clarifies:cheers: BUT, how many times do you feel happier when youre told youre wrong...time to make some timing changes and pay attention to the car.

Im pretty sure tomei poncams run best at the zero setting after what I remember reading from SK posts. The other tomei cams most likely need some timing adjustments. Correct me if Im wrong and Ill get our 32 gtr retuned with timing adjustments on the poncams

I would imagine the frequncy of knock is totally different and with the bandpass frequncy definability of this product means that it could differentiate. But surely theres a limit, how do they tune dragsters? Watching thread.

Cant seem to to download instruction booklet etc. Do you have an instruction booklet handy? How easy is it to use? What settings do you use on your engine and if you want to change to say a big block chev, could you use your instruction manual or is this trhough experience only? This subject is of huge interest to me as I tune my own cars, but admit Im weak in detecting knock. Be nice to have a gizmo like this, but im sure there must be rule of thumbs that exist when coming to using these detectors, as youre knock and final tune is only as good as the setup (ie sensitivity, placement of sensor and the like). Care to elaborate/educate us a bit more on them? I keen to learn. PS i have tried using microphone on blocks etc....useless method (for me anyway). Seb

^ x2 Do a search on one of my threads on high vs low mounts. Low mount is better in everyway except fitment of the turbo. My race car is currently changing from high to low, better centre of gravity, can sit further back in the engine bay (dump pipe is lower and allows closer placement to firewall). Youll find sydneykid`s replies to the aforementioned thread the best. He converted me.

Flamage on the way...

Are engines meant to have dipsticks?

Sounds interesting. How much does it cost and how does it compare to the link knockblock?

Where are the admins here? How about a "this user has been banned, please exercise caution...."??? SEND YOUR REFUNDS OUT SHAN

No disrespect, but can buy new for 40k. No one will buy with 30000km on the clock a pretty stock wrex for the prices youre asking...... I know, had a wrex, had 27000 on the clock, only highway driving. Same year model as year I sold it. People laughed at anything over 30K.

Depends on boost!!!!!!! I aim for: Cruise/light throttle can see stochiometric (14.7) to 16 1-6psi 13 afr 7-14psi 12afr 14-23psi 11-11.5afr 30 psi 10-10.5afr All depends on compression ratio and head design. On my higher compression engine, I drop AFRS earlier. My afrs are always fatest where max torque/VE occurs So your afr of 12-13 is mostly fine. Hard to say without dyno sheet and boost used and other impt factors (fuel, CR etc).