180bfj20det

Hi SK, The dicksmiths whisper 2000 is no longer available. But it has been replaced with a better unit: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefro...duct/View/Y1140 My question is how do you modify the microphone so that it somehow detects knock from an engine-mouted clip? Can someone post up what pinging through one of these chassis ears sounds like? LM1 vs techedge? WHich one SK do you prefer? Thanks

I had the great opportunity to get in contact with an Englishman who has currently over 300rwkW in his CA18 and which is used as a track car and has done so reliably for over a year easily. I think his secret comes down to water injection which he runs without disguise. Now I imagine water injection isnt just a matter of sticking water in the inlet air. IT has to be sprayed as a mist and at a certain time (ie on boost). I am new to water injection so if some of my questions seem simple, please dont insult me Having seen a zoom magazine covering water injection a while ago cheaply, is there a way you know to cheaply setup and run H2O injection? Ie what components, how to mount it, what pump etc? Can aftermarket CPUs be used to drive a water injection system and if yes how? Do you need to increase the amount of water as load on boost increases? Please any other details and help would be appreciated. Thanks again

Lag free turbo and 200rwkw easily = GT28rs. You wont be dissapointed. YOu can squeeze 220rwkw out of these max. Cheers

Talking about fuels...toluene was used in f1 cars in the 80s at 85 percent. It was very sucessful and these cars were making here hp per liter. Just wandering if anyone could pm me where to get toluene...?? Cheers

I am the process of changing my valles springs on my FJ20E as they are not under control at 19psi lol which youd expect from an NA engine running this boost. After the springs are installed Id like to change to methanol fuel but need your help. I have 550cc injectors running 98 ron. Since gas vs methanol is 12:1 vs 6:1, does this mean I need 1000cc injectors or even bigger since Im chasing more like 25 psi? What size would you recommend (take into consideration 2L, 25 psi and power Im after written below)? What fuel pumps are methanol-tolerant and what size would I need to get approx 400-450rwhp? Is the 044 applicable here? Also do I need special injectors (methanol tolerant) or are all injectors already meth tolerant? What type of fuel hose should be used for this application? Anyother help greatly appreciated like where to get the methanol on the gold coast. This will be mostly a track and drag car but I think I will run two fuel systems so I can run 98 on the street (keeping it legal). Cheers

Hi, I am located in France at the moment and unfortunately ALL dynos within a 500km radius of me are inertia dynos (not braked). I would like to have my car tuned (CA18DET 180sx) but can this be possible? This is the question I asked, and all 3 (yes only 3) shops with dynos say YES. They simply keep the engine on certain load points by using the car's brakes (as opposed to loading the dyno via eddy brakes etc which are found on braked dynos). Frankly, they have me convinced!!!! Seeing the competition rally cars coming off these dynos and running so successfully and reliably, I have proof before my eyes that tuning all load points on an inertia dyno is accurate, viable and efficient (providing you have good rear brakes). BUT....I have heard rumours that cars tuned on inertia dynos held on specific load points through the car's brakes run LEAN....I dont see how this could happen as really the concept is the same as road tuning except youre doing it in a safer manner. I want to know people's opinions before I hand over 200 euros an hour for tuning on a dyno which may not give me the results i want.... Cheers

I HAVE FOUND HORSEPOWERINABOX THE BEST FOR PRICES AND ALSO INFORMATION. GO MORRIE!!!!!!!!!

Quincy, the setup you have is one that is awesome. The power you have is very good and smack on the limit of pump fuel for your displacement from what I have gathered. Any more mods may yield you a little bit more power....but they will be much more expensive and plus youll lose drivability......I decided to stop at the stage im at with my NA block FJ20.....as 230rwkw aint bad on pump and high compression. The money involved in getting more oout of it just aint worth it.....displacement is the key for cheap power!!! Well DONE again, its da shit!

screw the bov and enjoy flutter sound!!!!!!

Congrats!!!! Gives us details on your setup and possible a dyno sheet plz. Seb

My CA18DET is making an annoying noise at around 3000rpm on load or off load. Apparently its the conrod bearings that need replacing..... is this right? It sounds kinda like the noise of a diesal.... but onl around 3000rpm. Car goes really well otherwise. If so, how do I go about it? What size bearings or just std? Any other recommendations such as chaning the bearings without removing engine? If not bearings, what is this sound? Cheers

Im not going 2.5" anywhere...this is why im asking if anyone knows where I can 3" silencers and mufflers....magnaflow is limited in the EU.

Im not going 2.5" anywhere...this is why im asking if anyone knows where I can 3" silencers and mufflers....magnaflow is limited in the EU.

OK going to be expensive....anyone know somewhere in France where I can get some mufflers such as magna flow to make my car quite? All places here only sell 2.5" max.....

OK Ill go 3"..... But to kill noise I need to order some mufflers from somewhere....in FRANCE no one stocks anything bigger than 2.5". I want non-cannon style centre muffler and rear mufflers that are nice and quite as mentioned in one of the posts above. Is there an Aussie internet buisiness that can do this? HPinabox only has cannon mufflers, VPW.com.au dont go to 3" and if so its eldebrock.....are these any good...quite frankly id rather have the cannon one from HPinabox cause they look better but cannon = louder right? Thanks a lot GUYS

Guys I really need help. I want the quitest exhuast system but dont want to kill power too much. Will a 2.5" ex be ok for my CA runing a T28 turbo (amiming for 180rwkW)? Also if someone does know how much ex sizes do flow, thanks for letting us know. Cheers

I dont want to go to big because I want to keep my car quite. It is a CA18det to run a t28 200sx turbo aiming for 180rwkw to 200rwkw. What power will the following systems flow if they are completely mandrel bent: (1) 2" (2) 2.25" (3) 2.5" (4) 3" (5) 4" Im not every going for more than 320rwhp but I want it QUITE!!!!! I want to go for 2.5". Let me know guys!! Cheers

I dont know what setup you have but maybe you need to look into your suspension setup. Maybe your car is too low and this is shit for hooking up. I have a datto with this exact problem....230rwkw GT30 with 0.82 and the thing is useless in the first 2 gears... and i mean useless!!! In third it will spin all the way to 160 if I want it too.....but my car is TOO low and has bad CAMBER which will all change when I get round to it (slotting read end and raising it heeps). I have a stock 180sx and this thing hooks up very very well...to the point where it will on lift off and flat shift 1st to 2nd put you back in your seat and you can feel it in your neck (kinda like a wrex take off). Whats your suspension like?

PM sent.

Post a pic of your GT30R....Id like to see it and compare it to mine. I make 230 rwkw on a high compression motor on pump but with a proper FJ20ET, it makes 260rwkw. You shall no prob making 250rwkw at 20psi. Make sure you upload the compressor cover and the exhuast also includling the cartridge where it has the metal garret tag. Cheers

I like people doing something different like this. Well done. As for the power it will produce, any decent engine with forced induction will produce easily 100rwkW per litre...so it means 450rwkW for this sucker!!!!! GTR drivers start pissing your pants. As for if its a strong enough engine....coated pistons from the factory and 6 bolt bottom end. Thats stronger than your RB26!!!!!

I have a diesal NON turbo in France and need more power/torque, whatever can make the car accelerate faster and have a better top speed than 100kmph in on a slight incline!. Its so dam slow is could be considered dangerous! It is a 1.8L ford escort, FWD. Can it be turbocharged and what other mods need to be done such as diesal delivery increase etc, compression ratio? I know nothing about diesals..... Cheers

Nope, only cam timing does this and duration and lift. I fitted a GT30 on my car and peak power is the same as it was when I had the standard t3 which means my car is acutually a lot slower down low now because now the cam timing events are still the same ie too early for the GT30. Turbo provides airflow. Cam timing determines when this airflow is most efficient. If you fit big turbo, it will want will not change when the cams open at a certain rpm and thus you will still have peak power at the same rpm. This may not be the case however if your orginal turbo was really shit and couldnt provide enough air through the cams efficiency range.

OK so what do you guys recommend then if you can, answer the questions I put foward before it would be great... cause I just dont know what to get :confused: Cheers

What are the brands of forgies available and what is order of pricing? Arent ALL forged pistons as good as one another because they are forged or are there different types of manufacture, composition and therefore durability? I here a lot about wiesco, arias and JE but I would really love to know, as stated in my first question what all the brands that are available and the pricing of each. Also it would be nice to know what piston you chose and why you chose it? I have put together chat I can from this forum but I am still confused. Cheers