180bfj20det

Oil can be bad, imagine petrol.....that would be scary

The 256 degree camshafts you are looking at are certainly not a scary upgrade. The standard FJ20 both NA and turbo variants run 256 degree cams on both the inlet and ex sides. You will make a difference by upgrading to 256s but I would recommend in the high 260s low 270s if you want something to really make a difference which still remains very streetable. I am looking at some 288degree cams for my engine but thats because I want to take advantage of the GT30 Tomei make some 260 and 270 degree cams in high and low lifts. Id go 270, then you can take advantage of the rbs smooth reving abilities.

Need more info. What boost are you running? What turbo are you running? Intercooler? Whats your blow by like? Have you checked how much oil you have in your intercooler piping? Maybe your cam timing is wrong? Seb

Thanks guys. Really really helpful!

Reading through another thread I am confirming my limited knowledge of the 4 stroke engine. Please someone post a pic of where the squish area is on a head. I think it would help some of us less educated people understand more easily. Does compression ratio change squish? Headgasket thickness? If you modify the combustion chamber? Anything else thatll effect it? Importance bt turbo and NA engines? Cheers

Why are you selling juts the head? What happened to the bottom end? Always interesting to know why heads have been seperated from blocks...

Nice thread but you are unfortunately wrong about stainless steel. First of all, stainless steel, in comparison to either mild steel or cast iron (factory manifold material) has a much lower thermal conductivtiy constant (http://www.engineersedge.com/properties_of_metals.htm) meaning it WILL retain heat within the exhaust runner and manifold better than the mild or cast steels. Consequently, it does NOT "radiate much more heat" as you quoted and as such stainless steel is a much better option on thermal grounds as increased heat within the manifold maintains gases at their maximum velocity. Secondly, you are right about stainless steel manifolds being more likely to crack, but this is more due to the competancy of the welder. Steam pipe can be bought in many stainless steel options but the most common are the 304 and 316 varieties which are 3.2mm thick (the one's I use) and given the right penetration and constant heat, will not crack and WILL always outlast mild steel counterparts. Lastly, stainless steel, other than its thermal properties and durability, is a much more attractive material and stronger material per unit weight than either cast or mild steels. In summary - Stainless steel: 1) Excellent heat retention (low thermal conductivity) 2) Durability 3) Strength per unit weight 4) Cosmetics These four points are the reason why stainless steel is exploited by companies such as HKS and why only the best manifolds are made from stainless steel. What ever is made from cast or mild can be improved on in stainless. My 2 cents

Im sure you can fit the GT30R. Doesnt this bolt up? If not, you would only need the place a spacer bt the manifold flange and the turbo to offset the turbo from the manifold. I got my turbo for less than 2k, and it isnt a laggy turbo for the RB25. Think of what you want because the little drivability gain you will gain from the turbo you are looking at maynot be worth it when you can save money with the GT30, still have a responsive package for your aim assumming an aim of 250-300rwkW. I have the GT30 on my 2L, it hits full boost at 4krpm. I know of someone with the same turbo on his RB25 and he makes full boost at 3.5krpm.

Its a TA45.

Yeah I got a custom manifold. But I think you can fit the GT30 on your manifold with a spacer at worst. The GT30 easily makes 300rwkW: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=55845 #reply 16

You mean the toothfairy's not true !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Dam I was just getting over the fact Father Christmas was a fake...

Yep. Also I got a GT30 0.82 on my standard FJ20 which is 2L in capacity. Its quite laggy but makes full bost at 4K so suppose not that laggy but compared to lets say a GT25...Anways, for your engine, youll have a car thatll spin the wheels coming onto boost and make it hard to control. Go the 0.82 and you will avoid a large portion of this....mine still spins like crazy coming onto boost but thats what you get in a 1100kg car with 230rwkW!

YoU considered anti surge tank and going external?

Get a genuine garett GT25 (you can can choose your HP ratings up to 450hp I think)...look up horsepowerinabox.com. This will be perfect for your application and can easily yield bt 200-250rwkw with excellent drivability.

Need anymore be said? Though usually you get what you pay for, this is one of the rare instances of a genuine bargain. I think there are too many people out there who think just cause its HKS or expensive, that its better. It may not always be the case. As for the comparison I requote: Its just not good enough for me to use a more expensive second-hand cooler that has less effienciency.

What is the superior performance? Is it just centre of gravity as you mentioned earlier? Please elaborate on why low mount is superior. Personally I perfer high mount because most low mounts act like ovens to the turbo. Look at most low mount setups and the compressor housing is very very close to the ex manifold making it difficult to protect from heat using even the best insulation. This is very much overcome in the high mount manifolds I have designed and many available made by others. You can argue that heat travels upwards, but really it needs matter (ie air) to travel through and with low mounts heat stays to close to the compressor housing. I have transitioned from low --> high mount and I high mount ran cooler. The advantage also is that you can guide the heat from the exhaust manifold away from the compressor and also insulate your manifold to keep heat within the manifold (which you can also do with low mount ofcourse). I see that its all about heat bt the two setups. Chances are differences are minimal and so it comes down to personal preference. Only advantage as sydney kid said before is centre of gravity. Cheers

Yep thats right. It takes me less than 5mins to remove my gt30 (no joke).

You can get needle valves from your local hose supplier store and use this. It controls boost quite well from what I have seen. Cost like $17 without brass fittings so cant imagine it costing more than $25 all up. Dont know if it works as well as what is offered here but maybe its worth a go.

Please support for "for and against" high and low mount" ex manifolds with respects to performance advantages. From what I gather, I do NOT see "flow" benefits from either manifold type as flow is determined by inlet diameter, smoothness and diameter of bends in manifold runners (many other things including pressure but for the sake of the argument lets ket it relatively simple). I know of an associate who claims that low mounts flow better and I do not agree. I have built many ex manifolds and personally I have seen no advantage in either low or high in my designs. This is not a thread of personal preferences but for performance-only cons and pros of the low and high mount manifolds. So please no "I think", just "it has been proven" or theory to support your opinions. Cheers

Just to be sure were they both the same size coolers (as hybrids come in different sizes). The chinese ones also come in 100x600x300. Im sure this has to flow good hp. As for big name brands vs chinese ones...havent seen a comparison. All I know is that I had a jap one on my car, changed to chinese one and made an extra 30hp at the same boost setting blah blah. Still, I think that trust and the like have to make good products...but I would love to see a comparison of the intercooler I mentioned above and all these other expensive coolers, I reckon the difference would be very very minimal under 400rwkW. Ofcourse for anything above this, I dont think you can buy chinese 6" thick coolers like trust make so cant compare here and yeah you can only conclude that for high hp only the name brands are the go. There is not enough demand for 1000hp chinese coolers so they are not made. Could be wrong. I just would love to see a back to back test for interests sake.

Yep I agree. I run chinese hybrid copy 76x300x600 as in my avatar. My temperature is never above 40 degrees usually 2-3 degrees above ambiant. Doesnt leak and flows extremely well. I wont even change it cause really its very very good and I reckon 300rwkw will be easy with it. I making 230rwkw and the cooler is not one bit stressed thermally. DO yourself a favour and get one. I got mine for $310. Ive seen them in the 200s or the 500s lol!

Hey, Ill just repeat what I experienced: I first saw a turbo package on the net advertising this super t70 turbo with wastegate, bov and manifold. For 1000-1200 dollars, I thought it was a bargain as genuine garrett BB turbos are douoble this amount. I have a saying and it is that "if its seems to good to be true...it most probably is to good to be true". That said, I almost got stung by the hype of having all those goodies us enthusiasts want for such competitive price. To find out about the genuinity of that t70 claimed as a garrett item, I researched the garrett website and found no turbo of that specificity. No housing or compressor/turbine matches what garrett has to offer, so I concluded that these were not genuine garrett turbos. You may argue that turbos from HKS and the like can not always be matched back to genuine turbo products from garrett since HKS modify the garrett product or produce their own bits, but HKS can be trusted and this ebay turbo...who knows who makes it. Everything you get in the kit I was looking at (CA18 T70 turbo kit) was made from a collection of cheap chinese knock-off products. Apparently they work, but not for long and some have problems of bad workmanship. You only need to read about the suppliers negative feedback to see what is going on (and oh yeah, dont read they're positive feedback, its bullshit I reckon and doesnt fit the negative feedback. Its inconsistant). Try to contact the supplier and you wont get an answer. I know of someone who had one of these turbos on his car. It ran for two months and made average power. I am unhapy to say that I am almost certain you will be very dissapointed with the result. I was dissapointed that this offer was a dud, but in the end, happier than to have lost over a grand for crap material. I then bought a genuine GT30R You did the right thing to ask on this forum as there are some good bargains going around such as the hybrid copy coolers which work extremely well for street applications ( i have one on my car). But these turbos are best to shy away from. Interesting to here what others have to say but last time, it was pretty unanimous. Hope this helps

Dont know about your 4th gear crunch...but I have a brass button clutch (5puck, sprung centre, 1400kg pressure plate) and it drives like a normal clutch, not bitey and not a pain in traffic....and before everyone asks...yes, it is a brass button clutch!! Its awesome and I can spin all the way to 150kmph in 3rd gear. It chirps all 5 gears if I want or I can drive it normally everywhere. I paid $480 including flywheel machining and bearing. It doesnt slip at all and an associate has the same in his 400hp FJ20 ute and lets just say he drives it like a maniac on slicks doing burnouts and races...it is still in the after 2 years!

I would like to run methanol as a fuel as I have seen many cars benefit from the changement. Rayhall turbocharging claims on their website that you can add approx another 15 degrees of timing into your engine which is heeps which changement from pump to methanol! In addition, I have also read that methanol can give you an extra 20 percent power over pump fuel (providing your engine can take it). Who has experiences with methanol? Who has seen benefits? What are the disadvantages apart from needing to changes injectors + pump (due to requirement of twice the normal flow since methanol needs to run twice as rich as petrol alone) and legality? How much is it and where is it available on the gold coast? What is its octane rating? Does anyother fuel compare to methanol for power/dollar? Cheers

I had to quote this from another thread. Awesome power, expected AF ratios and look at that timing!!!! woo hoo!!!!!!!!! Good stuff pnblight