180bfj20det

Ebay turbo and chinese knockoff. Thread exists on this already. Read it and make your mind up...which Im sure will be not to buy. They dont last, and thats if you get it!

From what you say I assume that valve springs with weaker tension will therefore "leak" boost away and not effectively vent away exhaust gases due to exhaust back pressure...am I correct? If not please explain a bit more the reasoning behind weak valve springs and boost (though it makes sense, Id rather here it from someone who knows rather than making an educated guess). How would it cause detonation...it is because residual exhaust gases dilutes incoming air? Thanks a lot for your help, I appreciate it HUGELY!

Im running an AF ratio of 11.5-11.7 at full boost. Also I use BP ultimate as fuel. GTRs can handle more timing because they rev better creating less reversion. Hondas can be turbocharged and run big boost and ignition because they have large cams with large overlap. I definately am convinced my compression ratio is the problem to not making 350rwhp. Like I said, my buddy has the FJ20ET (as opposed to my FJ20E ie Natural), runs 16-18 degrees of timing and makes only slightly less power than I except I run a GT30R and he a first generation plain bearing s14 t28!!! Im just gonna get a FJ20ET and make the power I want that way...because you're right, maybe ign isnt just the reason to my dilemma and other intrinsic differences may exist bt the 2 engines responsible for the power difference. I cant be stuffed (ie dont have the money) trying to figure it out...so the FJ20ET is the go. Does anyone have a good link to why methanol is a better fuel than pump. I have read that it's energy content is its most important aspect rather than its octane content which is not huge (ie 102 or something like that). I also know that methanol absorbs a lot of latent heat during transition from its fluid to gas state favouring lower temperatures. Cheers

Shite GTRs love their timing!!!!!!!!

Hey disco potato....that 700hp fj, do you have any other infomation on it, websites or would you have the contact of the person who owns (owned) it? Do you have an MSN address so we could chat sometime? PM it to me if you wish... if not, its cool Cheers

Thanks for the info. The FJ maybe dated...but it certainly is a more robust engine than say the SR20 and has more similarities to the GTR engine than the latter too! Anways my GT30 is a genuine Garrett GT30R. I will test the exhuast pressure tho I hope this is fine because a 0.82 housing is quite large for a 2L. I will first get a FJ20ET and try and get the 350 this way. This will work and then I will do further mods from there which is better starting off with the better engine. Cheers

Thanks for the reply. What I should really say it what Im aiming for and why. Aim: I want 350rwhp on pump. Why: Because I know of at least 10 FJ20ETs making this power with the stock engine on 18 psi on pump (To4s, GT30s etc). I have a friend who makes just 30rwhp less than me and runs a t28 of the early 200sx so there is a problem somewhere. The differences bt the engines are that mine is the FJ20E and theirs are the FJ20ET. Also, there is no difference in power delivery bt mine and theirs up to about 285rwhp where I stop the steep rise of power (then make flatten off to make my peak power) and they continue a good 35-40hp before they flatten off to make peak power... so they have more average power plus more peak power.... I think there must be a difference in the head as well as compression bt the NA and turbo engines (although this is contrary to dogma). I will just get an FJ20ET and bolt everything on and hope for 350rwhp. This is trialled and proven and I want to be part of it. What are your thoughts on the differences bt the NA and turbo engines in terms of my 307 vs 350hp and do you think this will make the difference? Also, I have driven the 350rwhp FJ20ETs and they are as tractable as mine (well so it seems....so drivability isnt hugely comprimised cause I cant feel it). I just wanna make the trialled proven 350rwhp. If you think compression is not the problem...then what keeping my ignition timing so retarded? Please say you dont think its compression if you really think so cause I need to know. Cheers Thanks SK

Only want to run pump... The GT30R isnt that laggy surprisingly. It makes full boost at 4000rpm.

The FJ20 head is actually a very free flowing head. I have heard of people porting it and making losses due to the air velocity being reduced. Mic sheringham's gemini makes over 520rwhp with standard head (completely standard: ie cams, valve timing, ports, etc...). This is the greatness of the FJ20 head. But for me compression is a problem and there is no doubt large duration cams will help with this though like you said I will probably need a closer ratio gearbox. I will see what happens and keep everyone posted when I fit 280degree cams. Another thing: My compression ratio is 9.1:1. My FJ makes 307rwhp. FJs with compression ratios of 8:1 make 350rwhp. The difference is timing: mine has 11degrees advance on full song while the 8:1 fjs have up to 18 degrees. So the 8:1 has up to 7 degrees more advance...Do you guys think this extra 7 degrees would take my 307 to 350rwhp if I were to drop my compression ratio to 8:1? Also is it bad to use a thicker head gasket to do this and if not, are the copper ones OK? Cheers

Thanks for your response guys. RB30: you are absolutely right in saying that I will have to spend big dollars to gain just a bit more power. The again, the standard FJ20ET makes 340-350hp in standard form from 18psi so there must be something there...the standard FJ20ET has a compression ratio of 7.5:1 or 8:1 and the only difference bt NA and turbo is compression ration and cam timing the latter which I have modified to turbo specs. Yes, my engine is a totally stock FJ20E!!!!!!! Unbeleivable it handles this boost and power but then again these are strong engines. SYDNEY KID: I am envisaging the use of large duration camshafts the drop static compression ratio so I can add more timing. I have been recommended to use 280-288degree cams which I would love to do cause Idont give two shits about drivability I just want a fast car...that said power delivery is important for making a fast car but then again these are tomei cams and I suppose they are designed properly. I have a venting BOV so no problem with oil. Also, inlet temp is never over 40degrees usually in the 30s. I just wanna make more power pump... Can you explain how bigger cams lowers static compression ratio? Also if it lowers static compression ratio, wont it raise effective compression ratio (ie when on boost and revs)? I know the answer to the last question is no but could you explain it...you can talk cam timing as I understand this a little bit. Thanks

Yeah its not much timing but we couldnt throw anymore in without it pinging. How much more power do you guys reckon I could make if I dropped my compression to 8:1 rather than the 9.1:1 I run now? How much more timing could I chuck in?

Bump

I think what he is saying is that the GT30 will already be at its limits with the flow capacity of the hybrid 30/25 and that increasing the flow with bigger cams would only change the power delivery more or less rather than outright power. Rather than cams, get at least a GT3540 or personally Id go bigger. Here you will make gains and then later down the track even more with cams but cams with a GT30 are a waste of time and money on that awesome high flowing hybrid. YOU NEED BIG TURBO for this engine....maybe seriously get another GT30, use 0.63 housings on both and youll want cams then....but youll make HUGE power tho with considerable lag I imagine (5.5k up). Im sure there is a GTR that has already this conbination making +400rwkW.

I agree. Back onto the topic. I have read little about fluid dynamics but enough to come to the conclusion that it IS ideal for one turbo per exhaust port. That said, then it would seem twin turbos would definately be better than one. However, there is a big difference between ideal and reality. The fact is you can mimick your gas flow to pulse as if there were only one exhaust port by properly designing an exhaust manifold – ie equal length with runners collecting as close as possible to the collector. Maybe 6 turbos are ideal but they’re certainly not economically or geometrically viable but even then, then latter has not been proven and back to back tested has it?? I am not insulting or disagreeing with nissan or any other manufacturer so please don’t knock on this door. But on the topic of large financial groups, lets say the nissan R and D is far from being minor and as such we would expect their decision to have been a good one. I would be wrong to disagree with it with the huge success of the GTR. However, there is far more money going to formula 1 R and D and in the 80s they didn’t go 6 turbos did they?? Why wouldn’t they if it is theoretically inherently better? The answer is simple, because it isn’t. They used 2 turbos only because it is better for a Vee setup. From another manufacturer’s point of view, Subaru: The new liberty has dropped the old twin turbo setup for a new single setup that outperforms the twin turbo setup in both torque and power throughout every rev range. That is something to ponder upon. That said you can argue that the old liberty B4setup was sequential which is far different to the non-sequential setup of the GTR. If you were to compare a twin setup to a single which both have the same combined output (ie where 2turbos hp = single turbo hp) using excellent turbos such as the garrett BB, then you would see very little difference and from what I have seen it would tend to favor the single setup. Compare the BB nismo N1s (approx 600hp) to a single 600hp GT30 and see what differences you get. Someone was asking before in the gists of “why then are kits manufactured as twins”? Well its simple: marketing, and that’s all. The fact is a buyer is more attracted to buying something that will bolt on and look standard than something that does not. This fact is confirmed by most kits for the RB25s or 20s being single rather than twin. Ok some kits don’t bolt on and are so because they make large HP but the idea here is that one turbo couldn’t possibly make that HP….though now there is with the GT42. You only need to twin turbo if you want more than 1000hp. But think to yourself, if two is really better than one based on fluid dynamics than all 4 cylinder turbos would have two turbos or more and 6s would have 3 or more, 80s F1s would have used more than 2 turbos on their 6 and subaru would have just dropped the concept of sequential turbos for just plain non-sequential turbos and lastly, Garrett themselves would manufacture turbos for marketing for twin turbo use or multi turbo use. From what I see, the differences are really quite minimal. But to say that twin is better than single is wrong if you are arguing on the basis of engine turbo response. This is only the case ideally. If you disagree with me, argue with respect and if you don’t I will not hesistate in reporting you. :kick: Oh yeah, my single 600hp GT30 powered FJ20 is more responsive than my brother’s twin turbo GTR and mine has far more agreesive cam timing and duration. Happy arguments!

I have covered this before. A properly matched single BB turbocharger will always outperform any twin turbo variants of similar calibre both in response and outright power. You cant go against physics. There is a GTR with only a GT30 which makes +300rwkW and does a high 10 with better drivavbilty than nismo N1s by far. Please the person who owns this car speak out and pass on your experience of this brilliant car. 30 years ago yeah twin turbos were the go... not anymore.

Just interested to know what ignition advance you guys run at full rpmand full boost. Please include your engine, compression ratio, rpmand boost level for ignition timing. Mines 11 degrees at full song and my compression ratio is 9.1:1. Ive tried posting a few times but hasnt worked so hopefully it does this time. Cheers

Download the installation manual from wolfems.com.au. It will tell you what colour the boost control wire is.

Out of interest where did you get this valve from for that price? MAC valves are excellent and are the ones used by the turbosmart eboost. You dont need to use this tho if your on a very tight budjet. You may need to put a restrictor in the line from the wastegate to the solenoid and this will work tho you will need to change restrictors depending on what boost you wanna run. Also you wont be able to run your lowest boost setting with this set up (ie 6-8psi) but a bit higher but this shouldnt cause a problem. I had a skyline vavle on my wold3dv4 with no probs but you need the restrictor in the line or it wont work at all. Without the restrictor my car ran 6psi but with it in place is ran 10psi at the minimal setting and 15psi with valve fully opened. The skyline valves are really quite limited in the flow capacity they have. But I would get a MACs valve cause they control your boost very very well and they're a piece of piss to set up. There are only 2 wires on the valve. Go to turbosmart.com.au and that should explain everything for this valve tho they dont say its a MAC (I think) the valve is definately a mac. Hope this helps

I got a HKS super sequential BOV on my car....only because I don't want my turbo stalling when I lift off the throttle. I dont care what anyone says, I'd rather be safe and run a BOV cause for me a GT30 aint cheap. Anyways, I must make my point about the HKS superquential BOV: what a gay souonding BOV. WTF did the designers think: that a squeek is a nice sound....they gayest sounding BOV on the market. The design concept it great but why did they choose that sound? Im gonna plumb it back very soon. If anyone knows how to make it sound just like a pssssht rather than like a cat getting run over, let me know. The reason why I bought this valve is because of its design (push-pull) which garantees no leak but sure as hell not for the sound.

LOL, come in your car and race and see if its not 400rwhp. This dyno reads 10% low and has been verified over and over and if anything the dyno reads slightly lower than 10%. We don't really give two shits what it reads in the end because we're not there for the dyno, we're there for Matt Spry which is an expert tuner. If we want to see the power, we'll take it to another dyno that is accurate or hell one that reads higher than normal...then you'll believe the car makes 500rwhp with n1 and standard fuel pump just cause the dyno said so. Speculating? Read above, we're not speculating but at the worst, misestimating by 2-3 % either way. Point of having it dyno'd for a power figure? LOL...it wasnt to get a power figure....it was to tune the car with the recent addition of N1 turbos. And anyway, it is a trialled and proven combination: N1 turbos make 300rwkW and thats not 360rwhp.

Here is the dyno graph for Antz car. I took a pic of them yesterday. The dyno reads 10% and reads 360rwhp = 396rwhp taking into consideration10% loss. This works out to just under 300rwkW and Im sure if we were to run the car on a calibrated dyno that it would read 300rwkW.

They're like an FJ turbo. About 150-180 rwkw.

I have searched and cant find anything ellaborative enough. Please does someone know of a website that outlines the strength of nissan boxes, sizes and other impt specs and pros and cons of each box? If you know, post your knowledge and maybe I can collate the info amd make a site. Cheers

I have a mate with a GT30 with the smallest ex housing (0.63) making 353rwhp at 19 psi on a FJ20. Engine standard apart from cams + pistons. He made this on pump fuel. I think your car being a 2.5 has much much left in it. Fuel limits the FJs to about 350rwhp so you should make 430 rwhp no probs. Obviously you have problems with airflow into the engine and in addition maybe the tune is conservative. My advice for making the 430rwhp: Get some tomei cams and upgrade from those pissy 240 degree 7.8mm cams....they're holding you back enormously. Get some 270s and your power will be there. I get my car tuned next week tuesday so Ill let you know how it goes.

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