Green_s13

you should have 20" at idle mine had 18.5 and i have no air leaks turned out to be the inlet cam was out by two teeth.

how do you know the low compression on cranking?? have you tested this? i have never heard low compression on seen the results. the other thing is a dirty crack case breather but i would have thought this would be a all the time thing

i'm pretty sure they are on the list in QLD too, i would let your insurance company know, if they dont like it then buy a new wastegate that is made for the amount of boost you want, i dont think an insurance company would go to the lengths to test the wastegate

was the head reconditioned when you had the motor rebuilt, it could be dodgy valve stem seals causeing the smoke. as for the miss could be dirty afm, slight vacume leak.

i feel really sorry for you, i hope they find the pricks that did this.

the 32 actuator will work fine for you, as for the plumbing, just hook it up from the nipple on the intercooler piping.

do you have a ceffy rb20det crossover intake pipe?

i would take the bolt out and take it to someone like conventry and ask for a nipple to replace it, you should be able to get away with something that has a tappered threat and get some thread lock and your done peice of cake, but where that bolt is, is where the gtst get there boost reading from.

you would have lost most of your coolant, just fill the rad first, the get a 1.25lt coke bottle and cut the botton off it, now fill that up and place in the spot where the rad cap goes. turn the car on and let it run for about 15-20mins and fill up as you go if needed. this will also get rid of any air in the system so no need to use the bleed valve

it all depends where the torque comes in if the 760nm is coming on at 7000 rpm and the 689 is coming on at 4000 rpm then i would prefer to have it come on at 4000rpm with less torque as it is more usable

give pete from pro torque a call 0438 876 649 he tunned my emanage and helped me out heaps with getting it setup and running properly he is at slacks creek, he has tunned plenty of race cars and is very gentle with the car when tuning, he found and fixed up a few air leaks that i had and didn't charge for it. the tune itself isn't cheap but the emanage deos take a fair amount of timeto get them right. Also he knows the emanage back to front

how long has it been since you changed your fuel filter, does the car run ok apart from the idle????

i second the wheel bearing as the problem, i had a similar issue and was wheels bearing, one very easy way to tell jack the car up and see if you and move the wheel side to side (as not in the rolling direction) if you feel play in the wheel it will be the wheel bearing. the other things to look at are the steering rack mounts they can do simialr things

the problem you have at the moment is the stock ECU!!!!!!!!!! what it is doing is seeing the extra pessure and retarding the timing hence the reason you have power all over the place, you might have an issue with your fuel reg but you would usually having other problems with it like hesitation stalling etc when not on boost (however i could be wrong), i say get yourself a decent ecu some new injectors and a new afm as it will start to run out of res at around the 200rwkw mark. get it tuned and you should be making some good power

Hey Guys i'm after a crossover pipe from a ceffy or laurel from an rb20det i want the pipe that doesn't have the BOV adapter on it Cheers Chris

can i get pics of the silver bonnet sent to [email protected] Cheers

congrats

dyno sheets?? what other mods do you have?? will also be better if you put it in the forced induction section

i would say your battery is most likley dead, if you have a steel brush clean up the terminals and the leads and try again.

it could be a number of things, could be plugs, coilpacks, fuel pump, fuel filter. do a search of these forums and you will find heaps of information about it

hahahah i know my front bar is held on by by two screws and two zip ties takes me about 2 min's to pull it off but i doubt the front bar of this car has been taken off before. have a compressor would have helped heaps benno. did you find some coilovers??? if you are looking at spending around the grand mark on them have a look at this first http://cgi.ebay.com.au/D2-Adjustable-Suspe...1QQcmdZViewItem

i would do a search on the forums there is heaps of information about the rb30 builds, it sounds like a good package though

i had mine t'd for a while and worked fine, i have since moved it to the intercooler piping but i got new piping made up.

looks good, i bet you had fun removing the 4 million screws that hold on the front bar

just to let you know i had an ax53b60 on my silvia a few years ago, was a great turbo make heaps of power and had awsome response.