Green_s13

it wont muck up fuel economy, and you will notice an increase in power but you wont get the full benefit untill it is tuned, to give you an idea my car was making 135rwkw at 10psi with the rb25 turbo then tuned it and at the same boost i made 150rwkw and then 180 with 13psi, it is a good cheap upgrade for the rb20

is the unit grounded like the manual say with the brown wire on the ecu side and the black wire about 1cm up from that? with the AFM wire you will need to cut the AFM wire on the ecu and hook up to the wire coming from the AFM to the white wire and then the yellow wire back to the ecu.

it sounds like an air leak or you might have damaged one of the pins or some wiring to the AFM when removing it have a look on the ECU for any faults

can you put up the wiring diagram that you used or a link to where you got it from?? i haven't put one of these in before but have done a few piggyback computers, i know some of these units have two grounds and will not turn on without both grounds being grounded,

hahahahahaha i love the damage they do to the ramp lol

i would have thought that when you go for your manual licence your not actually getting a new licence, it is more a change to the licence i know some people that had their opens but where on an auto licence went for their manual test and didn't go back on p's so i think she will be ok, but i would check with the transport dept

i had a very similar problem after driving the clutch pedel would change in pick up point, after thinking the same thing that is was either the master or slave cylinder it didn't fix it, i pulled the gearbox off, the throwout bearing was stuffed and also the clutch faces had worn out, i haven't put it all back together as i ordered a new clutch and throw out bearing, however after talking to a few places they said that a worn throw out bearing will cause this.

i have a pair pm your email address i can send some pics

hahahahahahaha no wastegate and i'm sure that windscreen would start to melt

i think you should be right if you stick to the QLD dept of transport modifying guide. the thing that gets me is the fine for the driver or the car, i dont see that as being all that clear and usally when there is a grey area like that it will get turffed out in court (well here is hoping)

i would have thought that the 33 GTR power fc would have worked

as was said before get a custom made one from steam pipe, the big issues with stainless is that all of the cheaper ones are made from thin steel which cracks, also the way a turbo works in regards to spool up is that it requires air flow and heat to make the turbo spin up, so you may find that with a stainless manifold you will loose soem response from the turbo as stainless is no good at retaining heat

that sounds like the CV joint, i doubt it would be wheel bearing unless you have hit something hard with the car, the wheel bearings are usually fairly tough and take a while to wear out.

my stock guage does this however my aftermarket reads steady so i would say it is the stock sender but for peice of mind i woul get it tested most mechanics should have the equipment to test this

first of all what car is it, i may have missed something, if it is a GTR then it should be fine, however if not i would change it, yes you have had the car tuned and all was good but i can tell you the harder you push the pump the faster they fail and you wont notice it leaning out all that much until it is too late, changing a fuel pump is an easy job especially in a nissan most local mechanic will only charge you around $50-80 or you can do it your self in a half hour. the cost of a new pump is not much and is good insurance

bahahahahahahaha that is funny i agree i can see this making that much of a difference, but what else can they do?

i would post this up in the drive train section, they look similar to the 32 ones but they might be totally different.

that sucks sorry hear, i hope you find the fool that did it

do a search but sounds like you have a leaking exhaust gasket

i would grab a fuel pump, and look for a good 2nd rb25 turbo, and get some form of management either something like an safc if you dont want to spend all that much or a re-map of your ecu that should net you around the 180rwkw, if you want more power then get one of the high flowed turbos from slide. i would also look at some adjustable camber arms to help control camber from lowering the car

vlave stem seals are usually blue smoke, but if the isn't being burnt properly you might get white smoke, but i would have thought that if it was that bad you would have the smoke all the time. i could be wrong

it will be one of the big blue ones, pull them out and you should be able to see a viewing window, from there you should be able to tell if they are blown

sounds like the main fuse has gone, in the engine bay fuse box there is a big fuse not sure on the amps but sounds like that has blown

sounds like clutch, i would get the system re-bleed, also th slave cyclinder did you replace it with a nissan one??

i have used bp ultimate in my cars for years now, i find it to be the most consistant. strange, it might be possible that they stuffed up when re filling the tanks at the servo but i wouldn't think so