Green_s13

how fare out is the water line??? also have you tried to fit the water line before bolting the turbo to the manifold, sounds strange but it was the only way i could get the stock rb25 turbo on my rb20 without modifing water lines

really simple on but have you check the timing on your car i had issues with my car hunting and the timing was out by about 4 degrees, set it back to what where it should be and the hunting went away

as stated above just losen the rear housing bolts slightly and rotate, make sure you give the car a good few cranks before starting it, i personally wouldn't run huge boost until the turbo has done atleast 500k's either let everything settle in, good luck with the install it is a fun job

you need to be careful with the air fuel ratio guages as most of then are not wide band, to be able to see what your car is actually doing in terms of air/fuel ratio you need a wide band sensor in the exhaust and a guage that can read this, the standard o2 sensor in your car is not a wide band sensor,

sounds like either you have a loose bolt on the turbo or you have blown the turbo gasket. either check for any leaks starting at the turbo changes are it is just a small air leak

start with cleaning your AFM then if you still have a problem i would change your o2 sensor,

do you know what your base timing is?? it should be 15 degress, aside for that i would check your plugs but if it is good all the way throught the revs i wouldn't think it would be that

do you have some pics of the bonnet and also where abouts are you?

just wondering what fuel pump you have in the car, i had similar issues with a failing fue pump in a silvia

the larger profile will give you more grip as the side wall will have a bit more flex so in s triaght line you the tire wont spin up as easily, i would also lower your tire pressure to give you a geater contact area with the road have fun at the drags

i wouldn't worry about getting it on a dyno it only chnages boost slightly , i would only put it on a dyno if you wanted to know how much power the car was making or you have a feeling the fuel pump is on the way out

the miss at idle might be timing related with the lower gapped plugs, i would check that you car is at 15 degrees at idle if manual and 20 if auto. also i recommend split fire coil packs i have them in my car and i haven't had any ignition related problems since

what sparks plugs areyou using and how long have they been in the car, also what gap are you running on the plugs?

form what i can see you have that all wrong, the bleed valve needs to be between the pressure source and the actuator. if you have an r32 with standard turbo you will need to run the line from the turbo to the bleed valve and then run a line from the bleed valve to the actuator, and from memory the arrow on the bleed valve points towards the actuator (not 100% sure on that but should be in the instructions of the bleeder). if you have any other turbo that doesn't have a pressure source on the compressor cover then run the lin from another source like the line to the BOV (but i would recommend something beofre the throttle body and dont have anything else running from it helps to stop spiking). hope that helps

easy way to check is master is leaking, is look for stains on the firewall or in the foot well just above the clutch pedal, for the slave just have a look and see if you can see any fluid around it. the brakes on the other hand i would get checked out, they are not something you want to let go clutch isn't so bad compared to brakes

i would try some new gearbox oil and see how it goes if it is still stuffed then look at the rebuild

check the fluid level in the master cylinder sounds like you have a leak and there is now air in the system which is why the clutch pedal feels different and also why the clutch is hard to use

you have a 2.5lt engine, just to let you know i get about 450k's out of my r32 turbo skyline, so i would say somehting is up with your car, i would check spark plugs, timing etc and make sure all is good

Hi All I'm after r32 slotted gtst rear rotors, i'm looking at paying around 300 delivered prefer new Cheers

have a look under the car and see if you can see anything bent etc, however if you are really concered take it to pedders for the $14 check

Honda Jazz heaps of room and doesn't use much fuel

for anyone that wants to see these in an r32 here you go, i got mine from just jap a while ago and haven't had any issues with them they arrived quickly and i have found just jap very easy to deal with and will continue to do buisness with them

what does the collar do, is it just to stop damage to the oil pump if not in?

just wondering how you have a massive AFM with no tuned ecu. i would be looking at pump ecu remap, solid bushes as the standard ones will be shagged out, mechanical lsd, oil cooler, strut braces, sway bars.

I have done a bit of a search i have been told an n1 oil pump will bolt straight up to an rb20det is this right? cheers