25t_sedan

there are 2 ways of getting to them. from underneath with one extension (about 5 cms long) The other option is take the rocker cover off and then you should be able to get a spanner onto them. You should be able to get a spanner onto the last one even without taking the rocker cover off but you have to approach it from the side that the firewall is on. See how you go

And then we come back to exactly where i left off......just use one big single turbo

heres mine

check this thread i just posted some results that i have experienced with the SAFC (its nearly at the bottom of the threaed) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=69595 I dont know much about the SR motors so i dont know if you will notice more or less of an increase but all i can say is that SAFCs are definetly not useless. In regards to the cooler i think that your standard one should do the job ok. Hope that helps

ok....the timing was adjusted via CAS and Dyno. Basically as far as i remember and i dont exactly know if this is correct as i may have forgotten details but my tuner explained everything to me very clearly but that was like 6 months ago so here we go. As far as i understand....when u put the SAFC in and try bending AFM voltages it alters the voltage going to the ecu. So (just as an example) say your AFM was at 3 volts without the SAFC running 7 psi. Then you do an adjustment on your SAFC and it changes that voltage to say 4volts which could be equal to 12psi (what the computer is reading) even tho you are still only boosting 7-8 psi boost which is still fine but then when i tried increasing it any more than that .... the boost would increase by only 1psi but the boost that the comp was reading would be different and it would be supplying way too much fuel and therefore fuelcut. Another problem that they came across was the FCD and the SAFC are meant to be hooked up to the AFM. When he installed the FCD it didnt do anything and it had the tuner thinking for a few minutes until they figured out that both the FCD and the SAFC were running off the AFM so he had to rewire the FCD to run of the MAP sensor instead. Like i said i dont know if that stuff that i said above makes sense but my tuner explained this to me in some way like that The whole tune took 38 runs and total of 5 hours and the whole lot including the price of the FCD cost me $500. Out of that $500.. $250 was for the FCD. (keep in mind that this is NZ $) By the way my car was an auto which has been converted to manual and is still running the auto ecu......Dont know if this would make any difference... Basically at the moment im putting out about 190rwkws and at the time that it was 177 my car ran 13.5@170kmph, 60 foot was 2.2.....I was very happy with that time but now it has a bit more power and better tires so that time will drop to a low 13 hopefully a high 12 if the track is prepped for once Hope this helps.....but just goes to show that the SAFC is definetly not useless Oh yeah on my dyno it says 9 psi which was the peak boost for that particular run which it saw at 2800 rpm and then it was 8.5 the rest of the way to 7000rpm (redline) (shtty standard turbo and wastegate setup cant hold boost properly )

I have an SAFC2 in my car (series 1 R33) i got my timing and the SAFC2 tuned and only 1 psi boost increase resulted in 36KW at the wheels increase. But to get the SAFC2 running properly without fuel cutting they had to install a FCD. Take a look at my dyno graph. Note the dyno graph is just to show the increase its not what my car is actually making at the moment. Cheers

He's obviously not worried about $ so the GTR head would be the best way to go but there are some slight modifications that need to be done when mating the GTR head with the 3L block. If your going to go aftermarket turbos then why not just go for one large highmount one? Its much easier to set up and is probably cheaper too. But when looking for 450rwkws hes going to have to look into some body strengthening too as producing 450rwks and being able to use 450rwks is 2 completely different things especially in a RWD. Just some things to think about sorry i couldnt help with the specific details you are after

realisticly i think with your current setup you would be looking at about 170 rwkw's but you havent mentioned what you are using to control your 550 cc injectors coz if you have nothing then i would have to say you current setup will be about 150-160rwkw and your car will be running hell rich for nothing. 220 is too much to ask from the mods that you have listed but 200 is quite achievable and would be quite reliable. hope this helps

you can see in da pic ive taken out the ash tray and mounted it with the bracket in place of it.

Ive got a series 1 R33 and have the same mods that you have listed. My car just got dyno tuned and has put out 180rwkws but thats with a SAFC2 on 8.5 psi. So if ya willing to up da boost a little more then i would say you would get bout 190rwkws and then you will be limited by your turbo coz they cant handle any more than 11 psi reliably anyway.

Stock for Stock hmmm lets see. I have a few friends with skylines, some have r32s some r33s some sedans some coupes. Now we have had lots of races between them all. and these are the results. (keeping in mind the results were done when all the cars were completely stock appart from my car which the engine was stock but was converted to manual - r33 sedan). These were measured on a airstrip so it was 0-180kmph. All the cars that were involved were manuals. r32 coupe vs r33 coupe = r33 coupe was quicker r32 sedan vs r33 sedan = r33 sedan was quicker r32 coupe vs r33 sedan = Photo finish - very very close r32 sedan vs r33 coupe = r33 coupe was quicker by far anyone can dispute any of these results but these are just what we found out.