=premo=

It might not be hard to remove, I just never knew that it was removable. I didn't take the gearbox off the RB20det before I sold it so I didn't see the end of the manual crank. Thought the RB30 I got was from a manual R31 and the insert looked like it was part of the crank because it had rusted evenly with the crank. Really wish I had of realized it could be taken out before I went to the trouble of making the bush fit inside it. Crap happens

Well I got hold of a backing plate and used that to setup the timing belt, put it all together and in the car. Started it up and it sounds rough (actually fair tough), shakes like a jackhammer and start's popping out the exhaust at 2000rpm so I turned it off straight away and went shopping for explosives. When I used the backing plate I held it up to the cam gears so I could see the marks from the back of the engine and lined up the tooth on the cam gear to the mark then looked from the front of the engine to make sure it was the right tooth that I had just lined up. I checked it at least three times to make sure the marked tooth was at the right spot. The only thing I can think of is that the marks on the backing plate are not symmetrical so when I've flipped the plate horizontally so I could see the marks against the cam gears its given a different result... Although the backing plate does look symmetrical. Any suggestions on how I can diagnose the problem or work out which gear needs to go which way? I still have 10 degrees of adjustment either direction on the cam gears that I haven't used so I might not need to pull it apart to fix the problem if I can work out exactly what the problem is. Its also possible this isn't the problem at all.

That's a good point... The gearbox is bolted up alright so I guess it mustn't be fouling. I'll find out when I put it in gear with the clutch depressed and if it starts to drive off I'll sit a grenade under it and get some enjoyment out of watching it explode. I really CBF pulling the gearbox out without a hoist, even with a hoist this project has fkd up so many times I don't think I'd bother with it.

Tomei oil pump is a must have for big power engines. (not that I can afford one, its just a suggestion) You should probably start getting all the fittings and small stuff now because it can all stack up to big $$$ and you dont want to be buying crap hoses or belts because you already spent all your cash on the bigger expensive bits. (Redline oil, bigger sump, high flow braided oil/water lines and fittings, second belt tensioner, quality silicon joiners and hose clamps, high tensile bolts for clutch, locking nuts for turbo, good turbo gaskets, high flow intake setup, breather system and catch can, etc). Another thing you want to keep in mind is engine bay space, my RB30/26 with high mount T04z hits the cam cover on the strut brace and the turbo has 2mm to move before it hits the strut tower. This is in a R32 gts-t. If you want 400rwkw's and you want it to last you have to be willing to spend some money.

Next time I'll take a pic. I think it may have been easier in the end to do what I did and make the bush fit into the auto insert instead of trying to pull out the auto insert.

So I wasted a lot of time Saturday making the bush fit where it isn't meant to go. Dammit, why couldn't someone just tell me it fits back further in the crank. In fact I could have just reused the bush that was already in the crank instead of replacing it.

Mine must have been an auto because the crank end looks the same as your picture. Today I fixed the problem however. Step 1, Use small chisel to brake up the bush that was too far inside the crank then use air or finger to remove broken fragments. Step 2, Use 80p sand paper to round one edge of the new bush to be inserted, then use 400p wet rub to smooth the rounded edge. Step 3, Make sure the rounded edge will go into the insert opening (may require repeat of step 2, it will still work if it only barely fits). Step 4, Place thick flat piece of soft wood (I used a cut off of pine) over the exposed end of the bush and hammer until bush is flush with the crank insert. Step 5, Using a clutch aligning tool (loose input shaft) check to see if the input shaft end will fit inside the bush by hand only. It wont fit because the bush has been compressed into the insert. Step 6, Using a small round metal file slowly and evenly open up the size of the bush, it is a soft bush and will be very easy to open up so be careful you don't go too far, you may need to unclog your file often with a rag. Repeat step 5 and 6 until the clutch aligning tool end fits inside the bush by hand without force and can spin easily. Step 7, Continue with engine build.

If Elf's only a III then its overpriced. Just looked at the Elf website, it gives little to no information about its base so I'd say your right its a III Would Motul 8100 be a IV? Bit worried that 5-40 would be too thin..? Could anybody tell me what happens with thin oils in performance race engines at high/low rpm/heat?

So back to the original question, what is the actual difference between the top Elf product and Motul 300v?

The Red is the current bush that is worn a bit and is stuck further back in the crank, it wont come out because its bigger than the insert that its meant to sit on. The Blue is where I think its meant to go but once you manage to get it into this section its been compressed so much that the input shaft wont fit into it. Is the bush meant to fit in the blue spot or the red spot? In the red spot it is loose in the crank, in the blue spot its vft. The only thing I can think of is to leave the old one in as its only going to spin freely on the tip of the input shaft (if the shaft even goes that far into the crank) and machine the outside of the new bush down so it will fit in the crank without compressing. Let me know if I need to explain further or if you have any suggestions. Thanks, Daniel

Only had a stock RB20det back then so didnt use good oil. Now I've got something a little better so using the good stuff.

Thanks, I change oil every time I go to the track so I might buy the Elf this time. And for a fresh engine 10-50 would be better than the 15-50

Apart from price can anyone tell me what the main difference is between these oil's? I've always believed that running Redline oil is the best option but when you price 3.9L at $120 = $30.80/L So I thought today I might give Motul 300v a try as its the next best thing but again its 4L at $100 = $25/L Then the counter sales guy came up to me and said why don't you use the best Elf has, 5L at $58 = $11.60/L I cant remember the name of the Elf oil he showed me but he believes its the same as 300v only it comes in 10-50 instead of 15-50... So why should I get Redline at three times the price of Elf? Also whats the difference between 15-50 and 10-50, is it heavier or thicker? Thanks people

Should I just leave the worn one in the crank and put a new one in aswell or try to get the old one out somehow? I'd just slide it out but the insert that its meant to sit in at the end of the crank is smaller than the hole further in the crank so its kinda stuck in there

The last time I got a bush it was slightly too big for the crank and slightly too small for the gearbox and it ended up pushed inside the crank and its fair mangled. Gonna be fair hard to get out... I'm thinking of leaving it there and hopefully it will stop the next one from going all the way in when I put the gearbox on. Does anyone know what part number or from what car I should get the bush for so this doesn't happen next time? Thanks for your help

Nice one, counting teeth between cam marks is easy its just between crank and cam that's different because of the extra height in the block. I should be safe setting it up on TDC with 15 degree's up on both or 15 degree's on the inlet and 39 teeth to the exhaust. I'll let you know how I go. Cheers

Thanks mate

So 15deg above centerline on both cam's (inlet up, exhaust up) or 15deg clockwise from centerline (so inlet up, exhaust down)? Thanks guy's and nope I don't have a backing plate and the timing belt is from a different car... RB30/26 combo

Thanks mate, I wont be working on it until tomorrow so tonight is well wickid.

spend $50 on a backing plate? If someone can tell me exactly how many degree's above horizontal the mark should be then I can use angle gauge to get it right.

Anyone know how to assemble the timing belt setup without the backing plate? I have no1 on TDC and at the moment the cam pulleys are horizontal pointing away from each other but I'm not 100% sure this is right and all it takes is one tooth out to fk an engine. Any help greatly appretiated. Cheers, Daniel

Thanks mate, so 150Nm + half turn

bump

Just want to make sure I've got this right for putting a performance RB engine back together. Rod bolts (ARP's) = 60 Nm Cam bearing caps = 15 Nm Crank bolt = 50 Nm Main's cradle = 30 Nm first then 45 Nm Head bolts = first 30 Nm then 100 Nm, back the bolts off, 30 Nm then 100 Nm Flywheel = 150 Nm Let me know if I have anything wrong or if I've missed something, this is just from memory so I could be completely wrong. Thanks guy's (If you don't know then don't guess, that's how things blow up)

I put in a "Application to alter vehicle or trailer details" form (MR7) and said new engine is a RB30 from VL turbo with R32 GTR head and stated that its a twin cam twin turbo. I also said the front brakes had been increased from 280mm to 324mm. They replied with a statement of requirements that said the car had to have brakes the same or better than a VL turbo, have a stock computer and had to pass an emissions test, but it also had to go for an inspection. I haven't finished putting the engine in but I doubt I would be able to pass an inspection with all the aftermarket stuff, power FC d-jetro, high mount T04z, suspension stuff, etc. So race only car for me... This was in 2006 so things may have changed.