=premo=

Still looking, thanks people

Looking for anything new or strong, was going to get a Tomei pump but the crap Australian dollar has made it too expensive for me. Will pay depending on quality please include postage price to SA Would like to put my car back together this Christmas break. Thanks in advance

I soo shouldn't have sold my 240z, there worth heaps now. But I'm fair sure you would have even more trouble getting the bonnet to close in a zed. Also the torque might fk the 2/3rd's chassie so you'd want a killa cage or a 260z two seater.

Check my sig people. Booyah

Thanks Tony

Brand new never been used TILTING car trailer for sale. Easy to tow, Spare Tyre, Manual Winch, Hydraulic Brakes, Easy to use, Tool Box on the side, Sliding blocks so you can place your car on the trailer & balance it over the axles. Quick release latches under floor ramp stores so no stuffing around with undoing nuts or bolts. $6000 o.n.o Also selling another second had TILTING car trailer. Currently being used to transport a Drift car & Race car to Mallala. Easy to tow, Spare Tyre, Manual Winch, Hydraulic Brakes, Easy to use, 2 Tool Boxes on each side, Sliding bar so you can place your car on the trailer & balance it over the axles. Quick release latches under floor ramp stores so no stuffing around with undoing nuts or bolts. Has rego $5000 o.n.o Please call 0402 265 390 for more info. Cheers

I understand what is being said and I intend to get a brace or solid mounts but the rotational force on the engine is all about inertia being transfer d from the stationary parts into the moving parts and the friction between them. The rotational force of the engine is still there even if its solid mounted only you cant see it because the force or kinetic energy is transfer d to the cars chaise. The only way the amount of kinetic energy transfer could be reduced is by using lighter moving engine parts which will also reduce the amount of inertia at top revs etc. Please correct me if I'm wrong or loan/give me money to get my car going and I will get dyno results of before and after.

The vented section of a carbon fiber bonnet is flat at the lowest point of each vent so they are possibly worse for clearance. I have to space my strut brace up now as the cam cover is hitting it as it rev's up. Just going to try 5mm plates first to see if its enough.

sold long time ago

Sorry guy's sold back on the 28th

Item: RB26dett knock sensors Age: New Condition: Never used Price: $220 (for the pair) To Fit: (What car) GTR Location: SA Contact: Daniel, pm me Comments: Purchased for engine conversion but found a second hand set in a mates shed, selling these to try and get my wallet back from bellow zero. Cheers, Daniel

As above, (((XSPOWER power performance parts

Item: GTR front pipes Age: New never used Condition: Excellent Price: Start the bidding at $200 plus postage (pick up preferred) To Fit: R32 GTR etc Location: SA Contact: Daniel, PM me Comments: Purchased for turbo upgrade but ended up going single conversion. Very sturdy, good welds and high flow flange matches, non of the crappy ebay miss matched stuff. Cheers, Daniel

Problem fixed but oil too thin so it hasn't been tuned fully but once I've changed the oil it can be driven hard on 230rwkw's safely. Once my wallet has recovered a bit I'll get the cam gears adjusted and tune finished. Anyone know where to get 10L of Redline 15-50 cheap?

Pic of section cut out, the black spots are just a sticky glue that holds the frame to the bonnet skin. I used a small cut off blade with the bonnet on the car and a blanket over the engine (don't let it get hot as the paint could bubble on the other side of the bonnet) then used a knife to cut through the glue. Took less than 2min to do.

Had a play with it yesterday and found that the fuel pump relay and plug wiring seems to be fine. I located the FPCM and tested the wires to make sure the right pins from the ecu plug were reaching the FPCM, they were all correct but I noticed on the wiring diagrams that the fuel pump is still wired in if the FPCM is removed so I left it unplugged and also earthed the fuel pump so its only controlled with the relay (pin 18) now. I also went over the car and ran negative wires to all of the existing earthing spots which greatly reduced the problem with the gauges. They still read slightly lower when the headlight's are on but nowhere near as bad as before. Took it for a drive and it seems the problem is gone but I wont be sure until the tune gets finished as its risky accelerating past where the problem was. Fingers crossed its all fixed. Will let you know how it all goes.

I haven't heard that but it would make sense. An RB drops straight into a 240z and the L series engines sit low in them stock.

That would help to keep the fuel pump going but the Power FC would still shut off if there is a short or are you suggesting to cut all the other wires relating to the fuel pump at the ECU plug?? I take it you mean the ballaster resistor pack for the injector's, I have the power in connected to the white wire and the injectors connected to the six blue wires.

Hmmm, could still be that the FPCM wires have different pins on the Gts-t car looms plugs to the GTR engine loom plugs so once it gets to the ecu its connecting to the wrong ecu pin and then once warm its causing a short. Dont think it could be map sensor's as they plug into the side of the Power FC so unless it is faulty the wiring couldn't be wrong.

Then cam covers should still be well higher than the timing belt and the bonnet would hit these first. Just make sure you cut the bonnet support out so the bar thats removed is as long as it can be without cutting where other supports meet. this way there isnt any leftover support bar that could damage the belt. I'll post picks of mine next time I'm working on it.

Thanks to Grigor and YLD-CHLD for helping me find the ecu pins, will have a look at them and other suggestions this weekend, if I can get it sorted then it will be in for another tune on Wednesday. Pin 104 is FPCM output 1. Pin 106 is FPCM output 2. Pin 18 is fuel pump relay. Does anyone know where the FPCM is on a Gts-t or know where the wiring for it runs?

Taking off your backing plate and timing belt cover wont shred your timing belt.

Nah all air con stuff is plugged in and the wires for these plugs are way to short to reach that far, they don't extend much past the windscreen wiper motor. How do I diagnose if the fuel pump control circuit is shorting out? The fuel pump is working fine but the Power FC could be trying to turn up the fuel pump so that it compensates for boost pressure on the other side of the injectors which would make sense why everything fails when it starts making boost. As said in BH_SLO32's post, could it be that I'm missing a fuel pump resistor or would it be that a signal from a pin on the power FC isnt getting to the right wire on the car? Anyone know all the pins on the power FC or GTR ecu plug that goto the fuel pump control circuit so I can trace the wires back to try and find any shorts? Is it just pin 104 and 18? (I cant find any software to open my pinout diagrams on this comuter so I might be wrong). Cheers, Daniel

Thanks mate, but whats a wheel sensor?

Hmmm, I don't have a backing plate or cam gear cover. See if you can use tin snips to cut it off.