=premo=

I'll give the fuel pump resistor pack connection a go but the O2 sensors are already connected using the correct plugs. 3 and 4 in the pic are for something else. The car can be driven fine at low boost and I've only been driving it once its warm so the problem isnt triggered by heat but it still might be worth a try. Thanks

I currently have the power supply to the ballast resistor coming from ecu pin 109, could it be the power supply to the ballast resistor thats the problem or are you sugesting that the 6 wires to the injectors could be somehow wrong? Should I setup a relay so that 109 is the switch and the ballast resistor power comes straight from the battery? Thanks mate, Daniel

Yeah tuner has done a few. I haven't mixed the looms together, everything to do with the engine is from a GTR and everything for the car is stock (same thing you would do if you upgraded to an RB26dett). If you look behind your passenger kick panel you will see just up from the ecu plug there are three or more plugs that join the engine loom to the cars loom, its the same on a GTR. So all I have done is plugged it in the same way it used to be. Nothing apart from the power to injectors has been changed on either the Gts-t car loom or the GTR engine loom. What I need to know at the moment is: - What do the 5 plugs in the pic above do? - Is there anything that could be turning on or interfering with the engine or ECU around this RPM or Boost? - Is there anything that could be different in the plugs that join the engine loom to the car loom on a Gts-t vs GTR And please keep the suggestions coming, Thanks people.

Sorry, I don't understand what your saying. I dont have a Gts-t engine loom, I have a GTR engine loom and map sensor's not AFM's. thanks, Daniel

The metal face on the underside of the knock sensor is clamped up against the flat surface on the block very tightly by the 8mm bolt so the heli coil shouldn't make a difference to the readings. If the bolt was part of the sensor like the RB20 and 25 knock sensors then the heli coil may make a difference as they rely on the thread to transfer the vibration instead of the surface.

There is a two pin plug (labeled 5 in pic) with thicker wires, could this have something to do with the power supply to the ecu? Does anyone know what plugs into these plugs? Thanks, Daniel

As said above, Apexi AVC-R boost controller but even with it turned off I still have the problem and its a nippen denso in tank fuel pump. Yes I agree there are a lot of differences between the GTR engine loom and Gts-t engine loom but Im using a GTR engine loom and all of the engine running gear is from a GTR including the head, all sensors are for the GTR engine loom. So everything including the Power FC to the engine is from a GTR. The AFM's have been taken out of the wiring loom and replaced with the D-Jetro map sensors as instructed to do by the Power FC installation manual. GTR Air temp sensor, water temp sensor, knock sensor's and TPS are all connected to the ecu exactly the same way a GTR would be connected. The injector power supply has been re wired to the ballaster resistor pack (which is normaly wired to the car's loom on a GTR). Im not sure what a lambda sensor or a ATTESA output is? The differences that could be possible are the three plugs near the ECU plug that join the engine loom with the car loom. They are the same size plugs and seem to have the same amount of wires but its possible that the wires are connected to different pins in the plugs on a GTR compared to a Gts-t, I cant find any wiring diagrams of these plugs for either car so the only way to work it out would be stripping down the entire car and testing one pin at a time to every point on the car to see what it does then doing the same again on the engine loom... this could take many weeks and given that all head lights, dash instruments and wipers are working I would assume that these plugs are connecting correctly unless someone knows of a sensor or part that would cause this type of interference that I could look for in one of the three plugs??? I also have some spare plugs near the O2 sensors and wiper motor, I believe they are for ABS braking system but I could be wrong?? Thanks, any help is appreciated.

I've done the conversion on my R32 gts-t but haven't been able to drive it hard yet. I'll let everyone know how it goes once I get around my current problem. Salad - just make sure you get the offset right, the ones I got had the wrong offset so I had to get Growly Custom Machining to shave them down so the caliper was central with the rotor.

This would be an awesome way to test out my new setup but I'd probably get disqualified for over steer again and I don't want to commit myself to something when my car isn't even running properly yet.

+10 for All Type Crash, they did some killa work on my 32

Ended up using a heli coil inside a heli coil to fill the 12mm RB30 hole down to a 8mm hole, it worked very well and I used a little lock tight to make sure the coils dont move.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...92#entry4067392 thanks guys

Even just a stab in the dark could help me with this. Any suggestion is worth trying.

Specs: -RB26/30 engine -Power FC d-jetro -RB26 engine wiring loom -Car R32 gts-t (stock car wiring loom's) Problem: Car went in for a tune during week but it couldn't be finished because everything shuts down around 7psi boost or equal rev's. Power supply is fine and holds a constant 14v to 13.8v at power FC, coils and battery. Car drives fine before 7psi and never completely turns off but it does die very hard. It seems like something is turning on and shorting out or interrupting the power FC causing it to crash or maybe something is meant to be turning on but its not connected so the power FC is turning off instead, the hand controller light dims when this happens and then everything goes back to normal straight away. Have also noticed touching brakes or turning on lights causes electric gauge's to read low, sometimes at idle there warning lights come on, (they have good earth and power supply is on a relay with ignition switch trigger). Might be unrelated to main problem but would also like this fixed. Its possible that the GTR's engine loom plugs that connect fine with the Gts-t's car loom plugs may have wires that aren't going where they are meant to but as said above car is fine at low RPM/boost. If key is turned to acc and the ignition fuse is removed the AVC-R boost controller and Power FC turn on (power FC hand controller starts making a clicking noise) and everything else turns off. (This could be a result of car alarm although it does seem strange). Does anyone know what could be turning on or causing the problem? Has anyone had this problem before? Does anybody have a clue about this because I'm about to slam it into the side of the bank that gave me the loan to do it, its really fkn with my head (spent 50+ hours on it over my week off to get it ready in time for the tune and now I wish I had of slept in and relaxed instead). Thank you very much to anyone that can give any advice or help.

Got mine to close, just cut out the support section at the middle front of the bonnet where the drivers side cam cover was hitting.

Purchased from GKTECH thanks

Just trying to find the easiest way around attaching them to the RB30 block. Block is a 12mm hole, the knock sensors are a 8mm donut. I was thinking of using a heli coil but I dont know how effective this would be. Any ideas??

Dont know much about the R33 side of things but I am currently putting a RB26 loom into my R32 gts-t with a PFC d-jetro and I've had no problems so far (apart from knock sensors being different thread and not having that part of the engine loom), I dont have all the bits of the loom so I'm going to wire the ballaster resistor pack into the engine loom myself much like the RB20 gtr injector upgrade (in the DIY section). I still have to check that all the wires on the plugs inside the cabin have matched up with the right wires on the car plugs but everything seemed to fit perfectly. Will let you know how I go after Wednesday when I get it tuned.

I have the same problem. We do need to run the resistor pack but the engine loom doesnt have a plug for it because it normaly plugs into the GTR car loom. I think we should be able to do the same as whats been done on the RB20 looms, we just have to work out which 6 wires are the ones that come from the resistor pack and connect them to the resistor pack then find a power wire out from the ecu.

I just spoke to a friend with a GTR and he said his resistor pack plugs into the drivers side car loom... How can I re wire my GTR engine loom or the R32 gts-t's car loom to fit the resistor pack???? This is crap, I thought I had everything sorted and now a week before the tune I'm runing into problems.

PM me if you have any wiring loom's

I could really use a spare set of wheels for drift and they would fit perfectly but I just dont have any spare cash. I've seen them on car and they are tough as fk. Someone with a nice car should definatly snap these up. One of the best wheels on the market at the moment.

Pics might help ya. Would you be willing to part it out, one amp and one type x?

PM sent, Still looking for now

I have an engine loom but not the knock sensor loom. I need this ASAP as my car is going in to be tuned with the new engine next week. Thank you for your help.